Top tip when replacing head gasket

zeaphod · Oct 2, 2018

As you probably know, the head bolts are torqued to 40NM, the 60 degrees, then another 60 degrees.
If you have/buy a six sided deep socket, you can mark the 60 degrees divisions easily on the socket - each point on the socket is 60degrees apart - it makes it easy peasy to get your 60 degrees increments when tightening up, without the need for an angle gauge.
Another tip is to buy a spare fuel return rail before you start - these get very brittle and are likely to split/break when you try to remove them - I'm now waiting for mine to appear in the post before I can finish the job.

dieseldog69 · Oct 2, 2018

zeaphod said:
As you probably know, the head bolts are torqued to 40NM, the 60 degrees, then another 60 degrees.
If you have/buy a six sided deep socket, you can mark the 60 degrees divisions easily on the socket - each point on the socket is 60degrees apart - it makes it easy peasy to get your 60 degrees increments when tightening up, without the need for an angle gauge.
Another tip is to buy a spare fuel return rail before you start - these get very brittle and are likely to split/break when you try to remove them - I'm now waiting for mine to appear in the post before I can finish the job.

Indeed top tip, all my sockets are 12 star things but upon reading this I'll swing by the motor factors and order a full set of 6 sided sockets for this very reason.

Halfords stock the spill rail pipe and not expensive either.

jamesmartin · Oct 2, 2018

dieseldog69 said:
Indeed top tip, all my sockets are 12 star things but upon reading this I'll swing by the motor factors and order a full set of 6 sided sockets for this very reason.

Halfords stock the spill rail pipe and not expensive either.

you should have hex sockets in any case but you can just mark the head and the flange of the nut

dieseldog69 · Oct 2, 2018

jamesmartin said:
you should have hex sockets in any case but you can just mark the head and the flange of the nut

I'm all too often easily confused

I bought an angle gauge for it but I remember his much of a pain it was sorting out the pointer on previous HGs this just seems genius lol

Ratae · Oct 2, 2018

Mark each nut after the first tighten & you have an easy way to be sure you've done each one & won't be wondering if you missed one.

zeaphod · Oct 2, 2018

I agreed with James - a set of Hex sockets is a wise investment for any Land Rover owner. Add a few hex spanners (10, 13 and 17mm) and you will rarely suffer from rounded off old nuts/bolts. Of course, none of this applies to the PO who last worked on this engine - the head bolts were all at different levels of tightness and the back exhaust manifold stud was missing - no wonder it was blowing out a bit

.

Colthebrummie · Oct 2, 2018

I don't think it's critical. I have always used a quarter of a turn or 90 degrees in other words.

Col

zeaphod · Oct 2, 2018

Hi Dieseldog69 - just noticed this

dieseldog69 said:
Halfords stock the spill rail pipe and not expensive either.

Have you used this for the spill run? I'm not sure what pressure the return run is under - thought the pipe would have to be more rigid.

dieseldog69 · Oct 2, 2018

zeaphod said:
Hi Dieseldog69 - just noticed this

Have you used this for the spill run? I'm not sure what pressure the return run is under - thought the pipe would have to be more rigid.

Spill rail is usually a woven fabric sheathed rubber hose, there isn't a lot of pressure at all but on the engine it usually succumbs to age, vibration and the heating and cooling of the engine for failure.

I've used the stuff out of Halfords for convenience not cost many times and found it to be good quality but a bit more expensive than the Huang Lo Chinesium stuff off eGay or Hamazon

Disco1BFG · Oct 2, 2018

As above, spill rail is under low pressure* and reasonable quality rubber hose will suffice - your local motor factors should have something suitable on a reel for about £3 - £4 per meter (ish) - I've just replaced ours... I can look the spec up if it helps

* more important to get a good seal and keep the air out

, than much else IME

lynall · Oct 2, 2018

Spill pipe is 3.2mm I/D, NOT 4.0mm id, 4.0mm fits but will pop off sooner or later

I always use 6 sided sockets as they grip better, bi-hex have their uses but very few.

zeaphod · Oct 3, 2018

Thanks for this guys

- I was just about to ask about the internal diameter, as the ordered part hasn't arrived.

lynall · Oct 3, 2018

zeaphod said:
Thanks for this guys - I was just about to ask about the internal diameter, as the ordered part hasn't arrived.

Rough rule of thumb is if its a hose it always the I/D that matters and if its a rigid pipe its the O/D that matters, obviously some stuff needs to be precise ID and OD to fit.

zeaphod · Oct 3, 2018

Fecker still hasn't arrived today, what's the chance of Halfords having suitable tubing and clips?
Update: amazingly my local Halfords seem to have the tubing and clips in stock. Not too happy to have paid over £40 with special delivery for something that hasn't arrived though.

zeaphod · Oct 5, 2018

Well the wrong pipe eventually turned up in the post - by which time I had fitted a kit from Halfords - labelled for Vauxhall - but fitted fine. £6 as opposed to over £40 for the "correct" item! The pipes just push on, so there mustn't be much leak off pressure. The engine started on the second revolution, is quieter and idles better. Test drive today!

Top tip when replacing head gasket

zeaphod

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dieseldog69

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jamesmartin

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dieseldog69

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Ratae

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zeaphod

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