Today's Problem..........Oil Pressure!

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The pump is driven by the sleave that slips over the crank and sits on a chamfer on crankshaft. It is then nipped between the crank timing sprocket and the vibration damper hub by tightening of the retaining bolt. In your first post you said you had retightened the bolt, i stupidly thought you had torqued it correctly, obviously you did not. There is a special tool for holding crank against rotation whilst tightening the bolt. It is not difficult to make an alternative. Holding with the TDC pin would be a last resort not recommended and could lead to tears. I have done this in the past, but not on this motor, only on motors with a slightly more substantial lock pin.

PS IF you are going to be doing a lot you may find getting a Sealey VSE5538 set an advantage. Around £80.00 and free post on net if you look around.

Sorry - I didn't realise it required quite that torque. When I tightened it I only nipped it really.

Anyway......... Tonight I have tightened it a bit more (against the 12mm timing pin as advised not to:eek:) and the oil light seems to have gone out. Going to get a bit better access by removing the rad cowl etc and get a new bolt to be on the safe side before tightening properly.

Thank you all for your ideas on helping me sort this problem (which in the end was found to be caused by me!)

Does anyone know the dimensions of the crank locking tool - outside and inside diameters, number of holes and PCD would be great?

Rob
 
I went in to work yesterday to re-set the static diesel injection timing..

I dropped a major balls up and turned the engine over on the key with the spanner still on the bottom pulley. I heard a bang and stopped cranking immediately as I realised what I had done. There was no apparent damage, but it was enough of a hit to undo the bottom pulley bolt, which I tightened back up and thought all was OK. I think the spanner hit the PAS pipe.

I fired it up and started driving. The sun was very bright so I could not really see the dash but as soon as I turned onto the main road, I noticed the oil pressure light was flickering on and off.

I pulled over into a lay-by (about a couple of hundred yards) checked the oil level, which was OK so I phoned the AA to get it home. 5 hours later I got home - approx 10 miles (not happy).

I am not over familiar with the car as I have only had it a week and have left my RAVE disc at work.

About a month ago the car had a new turbo fitted, but I do not know the circumstances to what happened to the old one.

Could the spanner on the bottom pulley of damaged the pump? Any other ideas?
Thanks, Rob

Hi there, I work for the AA and saw your comment about the delay in service. This certainly doesn't sound typical and I wanted to invite you to call us if you would like to discuss. Our Member Relations team can be contacted on 0845 607 6727.
 
Hi there, I work for the AA and saw your comment about the delay in service. This certainly doesn't sound typical and I wanted to invite you to call us if you would like to discuss. Our Member Relations team can be contacted on 0845 607 6727.

To be fair, they called me today - they are sending me a cheque for £25 to compensate. Still going to swap to the RAC next year. 5 hours is not acceptable!
 
Got the pulley off tonight.

If anyone is interested I will measure it up and do a drawing of the tool required to lock the crank. If no one is interested - I wont bother..
 
Got the pulley off tonight.

If anyone is interested I will measure it up and do a drawing of the tool required to lock the crank. If no one is interested - I wont bother..

I am sure people will be interested. There are two types. The Sealey tool, that i have, only fits properly with the damper removed. The Land Rover/ BMW tool appears deeper and apparently fits with pulley in place.
 
Hopefully attached.....

This is a drawing of a tool that will hold the bottom pulley whilst tightening the bolt.
On the one I made, I only measured the pcd with a tape measure and marked them out by hand (bit of a rush job!) - it did not quite line up properly so I have suggested that 9.5mm holes are used rather than 9mm as I used.

The handle needs welding on the face only so that the outside diameter is no larger than in the drawing.

Rob
 

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  • Range Rover Bottom Pulley Tool.jpg
    Range Rover Bottom Pulley Tool.jpg
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Hopefully attached.....

This is a drawing of a tool that will hold the bottom pulley whilst tightening the bolt.
On the one I made, I only measured the pcd with a tape measure and marked them out by hand (bit of a rush job!) - it did not quite line up properly so I have suggested that 9.5mm holes are used rather than 9mm as I used.

The handle needs welding on the face only so that the outside diameter is no larger than in the drawing.

Rob


Nice one Rob. I am sure a few will make them. The Sealey one i have only has three holes. But there is a dowel in hub that locates damper and needs a clearance hole in tool, slightly inboard of the PCD if the tool is used with damper off.
 
Nice one Rob. I am sure a few will make them. The Sealey one i have only has three holes. But there is a dowel in hub that locates damper and needs a clearance hole in tool, slightly inboard of the PCD if the tool is used with damper off.

I am sure 3 bolts would be fine as long as they are tightened up. I should have said that I removed the ancillary pulley, but left the rest of the pulley (mass damper) on.
 
I am sure 3 bolts would be fine as long as they are tightened up. I should have said that I removed the ancillary pulley, but left the rest of the pulley (mass damper) on.

I take it you now have oil pressure and no damage to motor hopefully.
 
I take it you now have oil pressure and no damage to motor hopefully.

Yes - Oil pressure is OK although I didn't get round to putting a gauge on it. I don't think there was any damage caused, it didn't run for very long with low pressure.

Still on the hunt for more economy! - might go back to that thread now....

Thanks to everyone for the info / suggestions.
 
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