To anyone that's successfully replaced the rear ACE pipes

Hi,

Following a leak from one of my rear ACE pipes, I've started the joyous task of replacing them. In true Land Rover fashion I've had a load of trouble at step 1 - removal of the plate that secures the 2 pipes to the valve block (due to dissimilar metal reaction between the plate and block studs), but that’s finally (cut) free and will be replaced with a new plate.
Once I manage to remove the two massively corroded retaining brackets (the ones with the rubber grommets as in picture 3 below) I'll pull the pipes away from the block seals - hopefully. Now this is where I'm getting somewhat nervous, I've read countless forum posts where people have said that the seals have been a nightmare to remove, and just as hard to re-fit the new seals, but I've also read a fair few comments from people that claim that they had no significant problems fitting new seals. So either some people have discovered some technique to make the installation easy, or everyone else suffered from severe corrosion of the seals. Basically just wondering what techniques you guys used? Read about one chap that fitted the o-rings/spacers etc to the pipe end and then somehow shoved the lot in the block - no leaks or damaged o-rings, don’t quite know how he seated the outer white plastic seal though!
Attached some pics to help anyone else who's about to embark on this adventure. Will add more as I progress.

The leak...


Finally got the damn plate off, thanks to a junior hacksaw and chisel. These 2 pipes below arnt leaking at the block, its just my cleaning solvent.



Next step, remove the brackets, this rounded off and corroded nut tucked out of the way looks like fun. Time to clean up that chassis.

Got the 2 brackets off thanks to a hacksaw and chisel, extracted the pipe (well most of it). However I seem to have suffered the same fate as most other people when trying to remove the pipes form the valve block. They sheared off. I'm guessing a 10mm stud extractor is my only hope here?

Cheers!

I think you are gonne struggle to get the pipes out and if any of the rust or metal filings get into the ace system it will kill it even just a tiny bit . if your lucky and get them out when you go to fit the new one`s DONT twist them in as it ****s the seals just push them in . Good luck . I was lucky mine came out ok but it still a **** of a job

'Luckily' the system is weeping the ACE fluid out of both pipe stubs, and hopefully pushing any contamination out. Off to Machine mart to get a screw extractor set.

Hi Chris, your ACE system looks in far worse condition than mine was. I spent over £500 on new pipes but just couldn't get the seals at the block to stop leaking. I reset them dozens of times, using LR seals (£20 each) to start with and then O rings to save on cost. Every time I had the same leak from a front pipe from the block, but you can't identify the exact leak because of the metal plate. I gave up in the end and removed the Ace system. Looking at your pictures if the back pipes are that bad the front wont be that far behind. Think very carefully about whether to proceed any further as it will only keep costing more. I paid £175 for second hand anti roll bars to get back on the road. I did like the Ace and wish I could have kept it but it is just a bad design at too high a price.
Paul.

Finally done it, no leaks that I can see just yet, I guess once its fully bled I might find some seepage at the valve block end. I also think I know why its common for the pipes to leak at the valve block, even with new o-rings. When I finally removed the pipes along with the stuck in white plastic caps (which were removed with very careful use of a small flat blade screwdriver and hammer - about 2 hours work), it was evident that the supposidly smooth walls where the o-rings and spacers fit was corroded. Its a 12mm hole, so I used a 12mm reamer to take out the crud, but not touch the alumimium. I guess the ideal solution would be to use a 12.2mm reamer and just scrape out enough crud and alumium to leave a polished surface, then find some slightly oversized o-rings. I used a 3/8" drill bit to plug the hole further down to stop contamination going back into the block, and left this in situ whilst flushing the hole with solvent.





Pipes were given an extra coat of paint, and partly covered in heat shrink tubing to protect them from stone chips and also scratches whilst fitting them (just in case I end up keeping the vehicle for more than a couple of years!)

Hi Folks,

As predicted by forum members, 10 weeks later one of the front pipes is leaking, typically it was the high pressure line from the pump, the flare in the pipe end was split. The work has begun to replace all 4 lines in the front of the valve block, will try and document and post pics. So far it's a mammoth strip down just to get access to the pipes in and around the engine bay. Picked up a much better condition valve block (from an 03 plate), apparently the pipes came out without any problems, the O rings look intact and clean, I noticed that the O rings in my old valve block (the ones I'd replaced) were twisted, so I'm amazed they maintained a good seal at all. This could indicate that the pipes and O rings need to be well lubed before they are pushed home, I'd even risk a smearing of synthetic grease to aid assembly.

ok, all old pipes off, but getting the new pipe in place from the reservoir to the valve block (the front half in the engine bay) is a total nightmare. RAVE just says 'fit the pipe' after removing the viscous fan, its shroud, the bottom radiator pipes and thermostat housing. However its not that simple as there are gearbox cooling pipes still in the way and what looks like 2 rigid power steering pipes. Anyone on here managed to replace this pipe?
Cheers.

looking for some help, I had a leak in my high pressure pipe so I read forums and ended up having the hose to the pipe replaced. I am trying to get the pipe end back in and am having trouble. it will only go in about halfway. do I need to remove the plastic fitting? I dont want to damage anything by applying too much pressure. Can anyone offer advice as to how to get the pipe back into the block under the passenger side? Any help would be greatly appreciated.