Tips please.......changing fuel pump

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floydy634

Member
Posts
98
Hi,

I'm looking at changing the low pressure fuel pump (rear w/a) by myself. I have a little mechanical knowledge.

Could anyone give me some tips and how i should go about it replacing it?

Also is there a procedure to priming the new pump before starting.

Many thanks in advance.
 
you need to take the wheel arch protector off first i have not looked at the filter so sorry i can not help although i have one to fit on when i get round to it but the freelanders are supposed to prime them selfs although some would disagree
 
If you are changing the pump I would change the filter at the same time. Below is details of how to do this as well as change the pump.

Prepare yourself for a lot of hassle and swearing. Jack up the rear of car, remove the rear wheel. Just to the bottom right of the wheel arch is where you'll find the fuel filter and pump, behind a snow shield. There are two rivet plugs holding this in place, remove the two center plugs from these riv plugs. I found it easier to tie a rope through the hole and then I tied it around the front and rear window aperture to keep the snow flap out of the way.

Underneath you will see two 10mm bolts undo these and the cradle should be free. Remove the electrical plug from the pump, and also the little earth plug from the side of the filter, them remove the fuel line from the top of the filter then remove the fuel line from the tank which goes to the pump. (both these should have a plug type connector with two blue push-in release tabs)

Once the cradle, fuel line plugs, and electrical and earth plugs, have been removed place the cradle on a bench. This is normally where the problem starts.

You will probably find that the filter is seized in it's plastic holder at this point. Remove the pump from it's holder and place somewhere safe. Now what I had to do with mine was drill a hole in the bottom of the plastic cradle right opposite the bottom of the filter big enough to get a long 3/8 drive shaft in, I then placed a long reach 14mm socked on the end of the drive shaft then hit with a hammer seven sorts of Shiite out of the end of the drive shaft.

After about ten minutes I Finlay got it out. Before you put the new one in plaster it in anti seize copper ease grease. Check the the little earth connection has not rotted away if it has make a new one out of a small bit of alloy.

Before you put it all back together drain the sedimenter container, this is a black container near to where the filter and pump are situated. This has a little tap on the bottom for drainage.

Once you have put it all back together turn the ignition key on but don't
start the engine, you will hear the pump working this will go for about 20 seconds. When it stops do the same again after 20 seconds you should be able to start the engine. (The freelander has a self priming fuel system)

check for any leaks near the fuel plugs, if all is ok fill around the little hole you drilled with silicon mastic then replace the snow shield, put the wheel back on and lower to the ground.

Job done.
 
Last edited:
Hi , good bit of info by grayo , i used small coulored tie wraps to id the fuel pipes , before disconecting them , eg red to red , blue to blue etc , when you get the tray out from the car , there is a clip to remove , which aids removal of the fuel pump and filter , good luck :)
 

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If you are changing the pump I would change the filter at the same time. Below is details of how to do this as well as change the pump.

Prepare yourself for a lot of hassle and swearing. Jack up the rear of car, remove the rear wheel. Just to the bottom right of the wheel arch is where you'll find the fuel filter and pump, behind a snow shield. There are two rivet plugs holding this in place, remove the two center plugs from these riv plugs. I found it easier to tie a rope through the hole and then I tied it around the front and rear window aperture to keep the snow flap out of the way.

Underneath you will see two 10mm bolts undo these and the cradle should be free. Remove the electrical plug from the pump, and also the little earth plug from the side of the filter, them remove the fuel line from the top of the filter then remove the fuel line from the tank which goes to the pump. (both these should have a plug type connector with two blue push-in release tabs)

Once the cradle, fuel line plugs, and electrical and earth plugs, have been removed place the cradle on a bench. This is normally where the problem starts.

You will probably find that the filter is seized in it's plastic holder at this point. Remove the pump from it's holder and place somewhere safe. Now what I had to do with mine was drill a hole in the bottom of the plastic cradle right opposite the bottom of the filter big enough to get a long 3/8 drive shaft in, I then placed a long reach 14mm socked on the end of the drive shaft then hit with a hammer seven sorts of Shiite out of the end of the drive shaft.

After about ten minutes I Finlay got it out. Before you put the new one in plaster it in anti seize copper ease grease. Check the the little earth connection has not rotted away if it has make a new one out of a small bit of alloy.

Before you put it all back together drain the sedimenter container, this is a black container near to where the filter and pump are situated. This has a little tap on the bottom for drainage.

Once you have put it all back together turn the ignition key on but don't
start the engine, you will hear the pump working this will go for about 20 seconds. When it stops do the same again after 20 seconds you should be able to start the engine. (The freelander has a self priming fuel system)

check for any leaks near the fuel plugs, if all is ok fill around the little hole you drilled with silicon mastic then replace the snow shield, put the wheel back on and lower to the ground.

Job done.

Thanks very much Grayo for taking your time in writing that up for me :amen:.

Thats the ideal amount of information to what i was looking for.

How long does it take from start to finish? Also did you have trouble removing the pump from the bracket, or is it just the filter thats the issue???

Thanks to the other poster's and the pics!!

Regards

:tea:
 
Hi , good bit of info by grayo , i used small coulored tie wraps to id the fuel pipes , before disconecting them , eg red to red , blue to blue etc , when you get the tray out from the car , there is a clip to remove , which aids removal of the fuel pump and filter , good luck :)

Good point about the clip Ian, I forgot about that. The clip is held in place by two pop rivets, You will have to drill the rivets out and remove the plastic clip, the filter and pump housing will then be free from the cradle. When you put it back together you can either pop rivet it back or use a couple of small nut and bolts with washers. By doing it this way you won't have to drill a hole through the bottom of the cradle as I did.

Good luck
 
Thanks very much Grayo for taking your time in writing that up for me :amen:.

Thats the ideal amount of information to what i was looking for.

How long does it take from start to finish? Also did you have trouble removing the pump from the bracket, or is it just the filter thats the issue???

Thanks to the other poster's and the pics!!

Regards

:tea:

No problem. The pump will come out easy, there is pleanty of room there, the filter is the problem. I took me around three hours from start to finish, had the filter come out easy it would have taken about 1.5 hours in my case (not very fit and disabled).
 
Ideal, again, thanks very much!!!

Will give it ago once i've ordered the pump + filter and do it next weekend, hopefully that will help with my issue of losing power on motorways with the mil light coming on!! :confused:
 
No problem. The pump will come out easy, there is pleanty of room there, the filter is the problem. I took me around three hours from start to finish, had the filter come out easy it would have taken about 1.5 hours in my case (not very fit and disabled).
Took me a good hour to free the two 10mm nuts , plus i had to make a new earth strap , and the compartment had to cleared of mud and crap , but next time i have to go in there , wont be as bad , a bit of copperslip works wonders !
 
Yes, i have seen that sticky, and thought it could be the solenoid, but apparently the mil light won't come on with that defect. I've checked my hoses and they don't seemed to be holed. The vehicle has power locally on hills, its when i'm on the motorway on inclines it loses power and mil light and exclamation mark come on.
 
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