Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt - Not an Allen Head ?

Hey folks,

My timing belt is due to be changed soon, so I've got all the parts ready to go, just need a good day to get it done,

But one thing I wondered if any o ya had come across, is the timing tensioner bolt in the manual is listed as a "Allen" head bolt, but after using the Rave CD and getting the Landy parts guy to double check, it was a normal Hex head bolt ?

Anyone else done one of these, who can enlighten me ?

Cheers..

Part No : FC110087ML

2000, 2.0 XDi L Series Diesel.

The bolt is a standard hex nut to tighten the tensioner on the the block, think its 45Nm torque from memory, use some low-tack thread lock, not the super strong stuff

The allen key you are thinking of is used to get leverage on the actual tensioner arm (Assuming you have the manual tensioner)

You line up the arm with the metal clip, hold it steady with the allen key whilst tigthening the hex nut simultaneously.

The tensioner is on a cam, so if you over-tighten, it just gets loose again. You need to reset and retighten.

Tip - once you have the belt on and tensioner adjusted, removed the cam locking and flywheel locking tools, rotate the crank pulley nut by hand 22mm with long extension bar. do a couple of rotations on the engine, then re-allign the timing marks to see if they are spot on, apparently its normal to get the timing out by a tooth.

When you switch your engine on, the belt makes a slight rubbing noise until its fully 'bedded in', about a hundred miles should do it

Its the one with the Auto tensioner,

I just had another look through the Rave CD and I must have overlooked it first time I'll blame the tiny writting "later models Allen bolt was replaced by a hex bolt"

The Rave CD doesn't say to replace the bolt, buy haynes does, did you replace it ?

Did you just use the locking pin to hold the crank inplace to loosen the pulley bolt ? or did you take the little cover of the flywheel end ?

Thanks for the tips though, I'll hopefully get it done this Saturday if the weather holds.

Cheers.

No didnt replace the tensioner or the bolt, mine was the manual tensioner. I did ask at my LR dealer when obtaining the parts.

As suggested by haynes, I must replace the bolt I thought. I enquired at the dealers, they said they had never sold one before, according to the parts system.

Stuff that! I thought, couldnt be bothered waiting for sveral days for the new part.

13,000 miles later and hasnt missed a beat,

You get peeps on other forums that replace the water pump as well during the timing belt service, its overkill

There are various ways to lock the crank, 5th gear with someone standing on the brakes, very difficult method.

I fabricated a flywheel locking tool, I think the cover you are referring to are just dust covers.

The official flywheel locking tool is available from Sealey parts (£35ish) it bolts into the starter motor holes, when the starter is removed

I made my own out of two pieces of angle bar bolted at 90 degrees to each other.

You have to re-torque the crank nut to around 210Nm

That explains why none of the dealers had them in stock, local one got one in the other day for me so might as well use it now I've got it,

I've done plenty of belts on different cars but this is me first time doing a Landy so its good to know from someone who's done it, if theres anything unusual to expect,

Thank for the tips, much appreciated!

Methos.