Timing belt riding over and shredding

jamesmartin said:

worth checking rear pump to block support people often pull the pump towards block when tightening bolts ,because they dont nip all the bolts on pump and block equally before tightening any

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Thank you i will check for that tommorow

Have you got a suitable sheet of glass to try the cover on to see if it is bent , if the rear housing is bent I would expect the cover to also be bent. [Joint would need to be cleaned.]

Thanks for that - just about to start scrubbing the casing in the bath tub, then I'll test it on the living room window.

I'll update soon

Dishwasher is the kiddy for small stuff like timing chest

lynall said:

Dishwasher is the kiddy for small stuff like timing chest

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I wish I had a dishwasher lol I got it all cleaned up and when I held it against the glass it was a huge relief to see it is perfectly flat to the glass.

Thanks for that handy tip!

When I put the new timing belt on can I turn the engine over backwards with the crank damper bolt in so I can check timing? As it just undoes when I try to go forwards

you could, but you need to turn it over twice clockwise to get correct timing and belt tension ,tighten the nut by hit spanner with a hammer ,

Will do cheers again

When the new injector pump arrives should it just be a case of fitting the pulley to it with the timing pin tool and the timing should be correct?

The pump has finally arrived! I'll start fitting it tommorow. Just a query, the pump has arrived with the timing pin hole like this.....



If I try line it up by hand it stops short of the hole - how should I be lining this up?

Cheers!!!

I just wanted to check as I wondered if I fit the pump, pulley and new belt and turn it over by hand on the crank bolt? It feels like it has hit some resistance when turning it by hand so thaught I should check incase I cause damage to it!

Well I couldn't wait to fix it so I went ahead and had a go and it wasn't too bad a job to do. I tried removing and refitting my old pump and it was exactly the same so I took it out and fit the new (used) injector pump. I'm relived to say that was the problem! The new pump fitted and checked with a straight edge it is in perfect flush alignment!. I finnished putting it all back together with a new belt and bled the injector pipes at the injectors and when I had fuel coming out I nipped them up then fired it up but wowee!...



I got all the timing marks spot on so I tried advancing the pump pulley fully then fired it up and tested it while retarding it in small increments and now there is hardly any smoke (in fact better than it's ever been!)

After this I double checked the pulleys with the metal ruler and pleased to say all bang on.

Thank you for your advice it was much apriciated I could not have done it without you guys.

Thaught I'd keep the thread updated as it may help someone else on a search, I'll update in 6 months time to update if it stays put!

Thanks again, Tom.

If pump has fixed it I wonder if maybe the shaft bearings in the inj pump has worn allowing the shaft to tilt?

lynall said:

If pump has fixed it I wonder if maybe the shaft bearings in the inj pump has worn allowing the shaft to tilt?

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I'm not sure but there was a bit of side to side play when you grab the old pump pulley. I'm a happy chap! Apologies for the amuterish questions/replies I'm on a steep learning curve over the last couple of years! Surely not much left to fix now oh wait the starter motors next

I dont know what the starter is like on the disco 200 conversion, but can tell you the def one is a toss to get on and off, in fact even getting the spanners on it is awkward.
Dont leave it to long as bump starting a defender is bloody hard work!
Oh yeh and they are never fixed and when you think its is, the stuff you fitted last time starts to pack up, I am not kidding!

lynall said:

I dont know what the starter is like on the disco 200 conversion, but can tell you the def one is a toss to get on and off, in fact even getting the spanners on it is awkward.
Dont leave it to long as bump starting a defender is bloody hard work!

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its easier if you drop the downpipe

What on a defender? that itself is a pain especially them two stupid tiny bottom bolts.
Three times ive done it now all with downpipe on and always outside in the dark as sneaked off to it fit it whilst at work, top tip before sliding starter home fit the relay trigger wire otherwise its near impossible!

Recently took a starter motor of a series 200tdi conversion and we managed to get it out between chassis rail and engine as exhaust was not fitted , but it wasvery tight width wise so before putting back in we shaved some of the thickness off the the retaining flange around the outside of the mounting holes went back between the engine and chassis much easier , not sure if will help when exhaust in place.

Finnished putting it all back together today with new gaskets and plenty of copper slip on the bolts so they don't get stuck for next time. I was surprised to see rust on the water pump propeller allready as it's only a couple of months old! I used my engine hoist (gently!) to tighten the altenator up as I was on my own and my annoying old belt pulley squeals on startup have gone now too so that should stop the funny looks in the car parks

Tomorows job is the dreaded starter motor - is it gonna be a nightmare?!

Have you got anti freeze in the engine? I ask as thats what the corrosion inhibitors are for to stop corrosion.