Timing after a belt change

i’m a little perplexed and could use a little guidance. I changed out my cam and crank oil seals a few weeks back and at the same time I installed a new tensioner and timing belt. I locked the crank and the cam was half a tooth off (retarded) from being properly indexed. The IP was pinned and the egt is now running way hotter than before. Am I better off indexing the cam and setting the IP with the crank unlocked? I’m open for any suggestions. I’m out of ideas.
Thanks,
Dave

You adjust the FIP pulley with the pump and crank locked, that's why there is slots in it.
That's on a 200 though but I'm fairly sure the 300 is similar.

Javelinadave said:

i’m a little perplexed and could use a little guidance. I changed out my cam and crank oil seals a few weeks back and at the same time I installed a new tensioner and timing belt. I locked the crank and the cam was half a tooth off (retarded) from being properly indexed. The IP was pinned and the egt is now running way hotter than before. Am I better off indexing the cam and setting the IP with the crank unlocked? I’m open for any suggestions. I’m out of ideas.
Thanks,
Dave

Click to expand...

Lots of guides on how to change timing belt on the net (and here). You lock the crank and FIP (Loosen the three nuts on the FIP), align cam (look at the markings square on (or use a mirror), belt on, set belt tension, check markings, tighten FIP sprocket nuts, remove all pins, rotate two turns and check pins still fit (minor tweaks may be required). When you are done you should be able to rotate the engine two turns, the pins will fit, the cam will align and the tension be correct. Once happy reassemble the rest of it

Just remember to tension the belt before you tighten the FIP sprocket nuts, not the other way around