thought i had found a good disco but !

two months into looking for a good solid disco we went to look at one
tonight which on first appearances looked very good,that was until I opened
the rear doors and found bubbling rust at the top of the wheel arch, looking
underneath the arch on one side I found a small hole on the other side I
could not see where the wet was getting in. up to now nearly every one we
have looked at has had this problem to varying degrees , is this an easy
repair or is it best to walk away.

Paul

On or around Fri, 20 May 2005 21:34:14 +0100, "Paul"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>two months into looking for a good solid disco we went to look at one
>tonight which on first appearances looked very good,that was until I opened
>the rear doors and found bubbling rust at the top of the wheel arch, looking
>underneath the arch on one side I found a small hole on the other side I
>could not see where the wet was getting in. up to now nearly every one we
>have looked at has had this problem to varying degrees , is this an easy
>repair or is it best to walk away.

is this in the corner of the rear door aperture, near the lock striker?

Did mine one side last yer for the MOT, and it'll be done the other side
this year for the MOT that I'm going to put on it afore I sell it.

It's a fiddly job 'cos of all the angles, but the rot doesn't seem to spread
too far, so local patching serves to fix it. I think it's a water trap from
crud thrown up by the rear wheel.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> is this in the corner of the rear door aperture, near the lock striker?
>
> Did mine one side last yer for the MOT, and it'll be done the other side
> this year for the MOT that I'm going to put on it afore I sell it.
>
> It's a fiddly job 'cos of all the angles, but the rot doesn't seem to
> spread
> too far, so local patching serves to fix it. I think it's a water trap
> from
> crud thrown up by the rear wheel.

If it's anything like on Alfie (Range Rover Classic) then the Arch actually
runs under the C pillar and the C Pillar if left unattended to will also
begin to rot from the bottom upwards. I sorted Alfie cutting back any rot on
the C pillar and fabricating a repair. I wouldn't like to have to replace a
C Pillar as the other end is welded to the roof frame.

Also the arch has a couple of bolt holes which secure the front of the rear
1/4 wing to the arch. Once this rots through the Wing will flap it's self
until it tears eventually and self destruct.

As always....

http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q53026E1B

Dunno what age the OP is looking at but Alfie is Circa 1990. Knowing what I
know now I wouldn't touch one any older than 1995 and then make sure it's
good and if purchased gets pleanty of rust prevention in this area. I'd also
urge anyone with a vehicle with rot in similar areas to take a good hard
look at the Sills. While it may pass an MOT the structural integrity of the
vehicle is weakened once they have rotted. I found this out when mine turned
into a Jacobs cracker. Fortunately the running board took the brunt of the
side impact.

Lee D


--

www.lrproject.com

Workshop photos from Landrover repairs
& other such tinkerings.
Home of Percy the Jag powered Landrover

>
> Dunno what age the OP is looking at but Alfie is Circa 1990. Knowing what
> I know now I wouldn't touch one any older than 1995 and then make sure
> it's good and if purchased gets pleanty of rust prevention in this area.
> I'd also urge anyone with a vehicle with rot in similar areas to take a
> good hard look at the Sills. While it may pass an MOT the structural
> integrity of the vehicle is weakened once they have rotted. I found this
> out when mine turned into a Jacobs cracker. Fortunately the running board
> took the brunt of the side impact.
>


Thanks for the replies so far.
its a 1996 model, had a good look underneath and the rest of it looked
solid enough, pity about the rear arches, he wants 6.5K for it. its got 87K
on the clock and has had a recon gearbox, i think for that much i would
expect one that is as near to mint as possible, certainly one that needs no
welding. i guess this is one i walk away from then. back to the search!

If anyone knows where to get a good one from, around the 6 to 6.5 K price
range i would be interested.

Paul

sounds v.expensive for a '96. try www.brightwells.co.uk

so Paul was, like...
>> Dunno what age the OP is looking at but Alfie is Circa 1990. Knowing
>> what I know now I wouldn't touch one any older than 1995 and then
>> make sure it's good and if purchased gets pleanty of rust prevention
>> in this area. I'd also urge anyone with a vehicle with rot in
>> similar areas to take a good hard look at the Sills. While it may
>> pass an MOT the structural integrity of the vehicle is weakened once
>> they have rotted. I found this out when mine turned into a Jacobs
>> cracker. Fortunately the running board took the brunt of the side
>> impact.
>
>
> Thanks for the replies so far.
> its a 1996 model, had a good look underneath and the rest of it looked
> solid enough, pity about the rear arches, he wants 6.5K for it. its
> got 87K on the clock and has had a recon gearbox, i think for that
> much i would expect one that is as near to mint as possible,
> certainly one that needs no welding. i guess this is one i walk away
> from then. back to the search!
> If anyone knows where to get a good one from, around the 6 to 6.5 K
> price range i would be interested.
>
> Paul

I don't know where in the world you are, but James at
http://pembrokeshire4x4.net/ has quite a few in the 5-7K range. Perhaps
worth a look. He also has a superb 4.6HSE on the forecourt....

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

Paul wrote:
>> Dunno what age the OP is looking at but Alfie is Circa 1990. Knowing
>> what I know now I wouldn't touch one any older than 1995 and then
>> make sure it's good and if purchased gets pleanty of rust prevention
>> in this area. I'd also urge anyone with a vehicle with rot in
>> similar areas to take a good hard look at the Sills. While it may
>> pass an MOT the structural integrity of the vehicle is weakened once
>> they have rotted. I found this out when mine turned into a Jacobs
>> cracker. Fortunately the running board took the brunt of the side
>> impact.
>
>
> Thanks for the replies so far.
> its a 1996 model, had a good look underneath and the rest of it looked
> solid enough, pity about the rear arches, he wants 6.5K for it. its
> got 87K on the clock and has had a recon gearbox, i think for that
> much i would expect one that is as near to mint as possible,
> certainly one that needs no welding. i guess this is one i walk away
> from then. back to the search!
> If anyone knows where to get a good one from, around the 6 to 6.5 K
> price range i would be interested.
>
> Paul

Ibought an Isuz Trooper from Car Equality in Bradford. It as a Jap import & in mint condition. They have
loads of Discos in stock that have NO rust at all & are in fantastic condition.

Some are expensive, some are OK priced, all are in superb condition.

Nige

--
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

so Nige was, like...
>
> Ibought an Isuz Trooper from Car Equality in Bradford. It as a Jap
> import & in mint condition. They have loads of Discos in stock that
> have NO rust at all & are in fantastic condition.
> Some are expensive, some are OK priced, all are in superb condition.

I've done quite a lot of looking at Series I Discos lately, and decided
against Car Equality in the end. No service history (I'm afraid that "But
the Japanese always service their cars properly, Sir" isn't good enough for
me), and all the ones I looked at on their website were WAY overpriced*
compared to the equivalent UK models. The condition would have to be
outstanding to justify that - and I would expect main dealer FSH at those
prices too. I haven't visited them, so they may be excellent cars and worth
the money, but I had enough doubts not to go further, despite the excellent
price they offered for the Range Rover on my emailed description only..

* Example:
P-reg 300Tdi auto County , 68K miles - GBP 9495 (Car Equality)
P-reg 300Tdi auto ES (top UK spec), 70K miles - GBP 6855 at independent
dealer (Parkers)

That's nearly 40 % more. I'd want it gold plated, with a 12-month warranty,
and serviced by the Queen's own mechanic for that. For an import with no
history - no thanks.

Something else - they advertise a lot of them with "Ltd slip differential".
Is this normal spec for Japan (and if so, why was it never offered over
here?), or are they confusing it with the viscous centre diff? If so, that
suggests a level of ignorance that would worry me too.

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

Richard Brookman wrote:
> so Nige was, like...
>>
>> Ibought an Isuz Trooper from Car Equality in Bradford. It as a Jap
>> import & in mint condition. They have loads of Discos in stock that
>> have NO rust at all & are in fantastic condition.
>> Some are expensive, some are OK priced, all are in superb condition.
>
> I've done quite a lot of looking at Series I Discos lately, and
> decided against Car Equality in the end. No service history (I'm
> afraid that "But the Japanese always service their cars properly,
> Sir" isn't good enough for me), and all the ones I looked at on their
> website were WAY overpriced* compared to the equivalent UK models. The condition would have to be
> outstanding to justify that - and I
> would expect main dealer FSH at those prices too. I haven't visited
> them, so they may be excellent cars and worth the money, but I had
> enough doubts not to go further, despite the excellent price they
> offered for the Range Rover on my emailed description only..
> * Example:
> P-reg 300Tdi auto County , 68K miles - GBP 9495 (Car Equality)
> P-reg 300Tdi auto ES (top UK spec), 70K miles - GBP 6855 at
> independent dealer (Parkers)
>
> That's nearly 40 % more. I'd want it gold plated, with a 12-month
> warranty, and serviced by the Queen's own mechanic for that. For an
> import with no history - no thanks.
>
> Something else - they advertise a lot of them with "Ltd slip
> differential". Is this normal spec for Japan (and if so, why was it
> never offered over here?), or are they confusing it with the viscous
> centre diff? If so, that suggests a level of ignorance that would
> worry me too.

I have first hand experience of them & they are 1/2 mile form my house. The service book for the Isuzu
was there, stamped & filled in (in Japanese!) You could tell it wasn't faked. The car was pristine, as
are all the cars I have seen there. One of the blokes who owns the place is a Land Rover nut with a well
sorted Disco with roof tent & the lot. You say you would want it in the best condition? You would not
believe the condition these cars are in, you could eat your dinner off the (untreated) chassis. I suppose
not all cars have service history,but like you, I wouldn't buy one either! Age is not really relevant,
condition is. They are expensive though, that I do agree. I got a cracking buy with the Isuzu as I
haggled & they met my price. They have been going a good while too & the customer service was MILES
better than any i have received form ANY main dealer!

Nige

--
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

Paul,

Its because there is a small seam and a gully which collects mud and cr+p
behind the wheel arch ...
This then starts the rot from behind the sill and wheel arch which shows
along the outer seam..
I have this now on my Disco.

If you feel behind the wheel arch at the top you will fel what I mean. And
if you carefully run your finger along the inside edge of the arch you will
feel how much crud collects, even after a good jet wash!

I regulary hose out the offending area, its suprising how much crud collects
there. This has stopped-slowed down any further probs.

Its worth checking on most 200-300TDi's, not sure on the TD5's though..

l




"Paul" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> two months into looking for a good solid disco we went to look at one
> tonight which on first appearances looked very good,that was until I
opened
> the rear doors and found bubbling rust at the top of the wheel arch,
looking
> underneath the arch on one side I found a small hole on the other side I
> could not see where the wet was getting in. up to now nearly every one we
> have looked at has had this problem to varying degrees , is this an easy
> repair or is it best to walk away.
>
> Paul
>
>

On Sat, 21 May 2005 13:41:47 +0100, "Paul" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>>
>> Dunno what age the OP is looking at but Alfie is Circa 1990. Knowing what
>> I know now I wouldn't touch one any older than 1995 and then make sure
>> it's good and if purchased gets pleanty of rust prevention in this area.
>> I'd also urge anyone with a vehicle with rot in similar areas to take a
>> good hard look at the Sills. While it may pass an MOT the structural
>> integrity of the vehicle is weakened once they have rotted. I found this
>> out when mine turned into a Jacobs cracker. Fortunately the running board
>> took the brunt of the side impact.
>>
>
>
>Thanks for the replies so far.
> its a 1996 model, had a good look underneath and the rest of it looked
>solid enough, pity about the rear arches, he wants 6.5K for it. its got 87K
>on the clock and has had a recon gearbox, i think for that much i would
>expect one that is as near to mint as possible, certainly one that needs no
>welding. i guess this is one i walk away from then. back to the search!
>
>If anyone knows where to get a good one from, around the 6 to 6.5 K price
>range i would be interested.
>
>Paul
>

That's very expensive unless it is a pristine ES diesel with full
history and everything working.

Also check the TOP of the pillars (particularly the B pillar), around
the alpine lights, under the rear light cluster, inside the front
wings (rot under the battery tray and/or air intake).

Private sales can be a lottery, but if you know what you are looking
at then you can get much more for your money as dealers seem to mark
them up to silly money.
--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70