P38A Thor 2000. ECT sensor

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S

simoncant

Member
Posts
74
Location
Cotswolds
Hi
Have replaced all I can to try to settle my occasional warm starting problem. Happy to do this as I like to get to know the engine and after 80K miles replacing is no bad thing I reckon. However the only part yet to change that may have a bearing is the ECT sensor as apparently it is the first thing the ECU checks. Mine has 4 wires coming out of the connector on top but all the new sensors I have seen appear to just need two.
I have bought a Nano but as yet have not used it. Can I check the ECT with it and if so how do I go about it? To be honest I am wary about pressing the right button!
Any qualified help out there?
Thanks
Simon
 
By ect you mean coolant temp? Yes nanocom will give you a digital readout of current engine temp

Go to instruments then motronic instr
 
Just between and behind alt and a/c pump correct?. Definitely 4 wires in. What reading should it give when cold. Daft question I know it should be 0 or more normally some degrees? Current thinking is that I get good starting from cold but hesitant when hot so maybe slightly faulty ECT. Thoughts?
 
Not sure on Thor - but on GEMS there are two temp sensors - one will report to the ECU (green one), and the other is what sends to the gauge. Nano will read the ECT one ie a working gauge in the dash doesn't tell you much. When you have a hot start failure Simon, what temp is your fuel? - How long after turning off does it cause a problem? Does your engine ever overheat - or the coolant system is healthy?
 
Starting problem is not a problem really just a niggle. These things should fire up immediately but sometimes, and that seems to be when warm, it will crank for a couple of seconds before firing.Oh dear you think its not going to start feeling- You know back in the day when you used to feed in the throttle when cranking.....well thats how it is. I will probably live with it-there are worse things about eh?
 
Mine (GEMS) definitely had an issue absorbing heat from the engine when left standing for 10-20 minutes, and if the fuel rail got to 65 degrees (which I could see on the nano) i wd have warm start difficulties. If it was less than 10 mins it didn't have time to hit 65, and if it was much longer than 20 mins everything would all be on a cooling curve (on a clod day). Once i'd swapped out the blocked rad, and recon'd the injectors it is all back to normal. And a bit like photocopiers these cars sense your anxiety when you turn the key.
 
Last edited:
romanrob said:
Mine (GEMS) definitely had an issue absorbing heat from the engine, and if the fuel rail got to 65 degrees i wd have warm start difficulties. Once i'd swapped out the blocked rad, and recon'd the injectors it is all back to normal. And a bit like photocopiers these cars sense your anxiety when you turn the key.
Click to expand...
why do you need to turn a key on a photocopier? o_O
 
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