This is absolutely depressing

WildOne said:

could almost swear that bolt has loctite i used the rattle gun and it would not budge i kept at it thats when it stripped, i tried a 12 point socket

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There's a reason that proper rattle gun sockets are 6 sided.

WildOne said:

6 point socket it just wont come loose

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If it's rounded, then a chisel is the only thing to use, but get a new plug for refitting.

It sounds like you've bought a Freelander that used to be maintained by a heavy plant mechanic.

Eye have never used a rattle gun. What sort of torque do they apply?

Hippo said:

Eye have never used a rattle gun. What sort of torque do they apply?

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Dependant on the gun used. My battery rattle gun has 300 Nm of release torque.

The IRD fill bolts almost always round off, even when using a 6 sided socket. Good luck with it, last time I tried to take one out I ended up selling the car before I succeeded.

Alibro said:

The IRD fill bolts almost always round off, even when using a 6 sided socket. Good luck with it, last time I tried to take one out I ended up selling the car before I succeeded.

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It is possible to fill the IRD via the breather, but it's a slow process and requires the amount of oil being put in to be measured beforehand.

I got these special sockets for removing the stripped bolt i think u guys recommended the Irwan Sockets? i bought a brand from ebay and waited 1 week it showed up from ebay with 4 of the 12 sockets in the pack and not the one i needed size 19mm so i went to super cheap auto and bought the socket kit from there, i came home put the breaker bar on and applied a heap of force and it would not crack lose i than got out the propane torch heated the bolt for 3mins than had another go and it cracked lose with less than half the original force i put on it

it was a hot day today and i grabbed the wrong bottle thought gee i bought a lot of gear oil all 5 litres, i put 800mls in the IRD put the wheel back on and realised i had put 800mls of engine oil in the IRD box, off came the wheel... out came the oil... lol one of them days i guess

refilled with the proper gear oil and now shes all done, i started the car and she idled and revved ok a little bit of smoke it has been sitting 2 months

i let a couple hours pass as i was having a break i went back out to start the car again now all my dash lights come on, all the dash lights go off, the oil and battery light plus the glow plug light down near the bonnet lever stays on than when i turn the key the glow plug light stays on but the battery and oil light goes off than back on all while i can hear the pump running the entire time

anyone know the problem? i have tried pressing the unlock button on the remote before i turn the ignition on and after the ignition is turned on it doesn't make a difference car wont crank over

WildOne said:

anyone know the problem?

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What problem? I just saw a page of words, that didn't make sense.

The car wont start.

WildOne said:

The car wont start.

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Any clicks from the starter? Any beeps from the sounder in the dash? Any flashing of the alarm LED?

The doors open via the button, no clicks from starter, no beeps from the dash, the alarm led is off

Sounds like the battery has died.

Here is a video i just took, sorry if u cannot understand my voice basically i jump in put the key in the ignition turn it to the first click all the lights come on some stay on and some turn off than the battery and oil light come on now at this point i am about to turn the key to "Start" which the battery light and oil light turn off than when i turn the key back both lights come back on again, the little light down the side is the glow plugs someone has wired in that usually turns off after a few seconds but its staying on continuously now and the fuel pump is running the whole time the key is on in the ignition

Ali battery is ready 12.58v could it have dropped a cell?

WildOne said:

Ali battery is ready 12.58v could it have dropped a cell?

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Maybe, but what is the voltage when you turn the key? If it drops below 10V it is faulty and probably isn't giving enough voltage to fire the starter solenoid..
At rest it should be around 12.7V or 12.8V

I'm not sure what is the "glow plug light down near the bonnet lever" is. There shouldn't be any lights downs there I'm sure.

The glow plug light is the bulb with the 'coil' type sign on the main line of lights under the speedo & rev gauges.

I'm also unsure what pump you can hear running. There aren't really any pumps to run on the L Series. The main injection pump is driven off the end of the cambelt. The only the pumps are the likes of the PAS and water pumps driven off the drive/fan belt. There's also the ABS pump but that shouldn't be on.

Ok the pump noise ended up being both radiator fans running while the ignition is turned on, i went out with a torch looking around the engine and i spotted one black plug lose its located strait under the turbo on a small length of cable around 10cm long off the harness it must go to the back of the block, turbo, or rear top of the transmission it cannot go far but its going to be a bugger finding its sensor because the big dog bone frame/plate is bolted back up so reaching distance will be minimal i may have to dive in from the top

Location of the lose plug is here

Found this picture online and it looks like the coolant temp sensor has come unplugged

That would explain why your fans are running.

WildOne said:

Found this picture online and it looks like the coolant temp sensor has come unplugged

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That's the crank position sensor.