Tests new Freelander 1 owners should do on their car

Colthebrummie said:

That's interesting, I wonder if that was my issue. My freelander has gone to a new home so I'll never know.

Col

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GrumpyGel said:

These points have been written so many times, I just want to put them in a thread by themselves so a link can be used rather than typing them out each time! This relates only to Freelander 1 vehicles.

Freelander like all cars can have many different faults. Lights can stop working, leaks can occur, engines can run rough etc etc - they just need to be fixed as with any car. Generally I've found my Freelander to have fantastic reliability and have suffered very few faults.

However, the way the Freelander transmission works is unlike most cars. If not cared for, it will often destroy the transmission with a good chance that it won't be economically viable to fix. However, there are some simple things that should be done to stop this happening...

1) Does your car still have its prop shafts installed? If you look under the car, you will see the exhaust running from the front to back, but you should also see 2 prop shafts separated by a 'device' supported by 2 bearings - this is the Viscous Coupling Unit (the VCU). Are these bits there?

These props run from the "IRD" at the front to the rear differential and provide the drive to the rear axle to make the car '4WD'. If they are missing, your car has been converted to 2WD and the following points do not apply.

2) Are all the tyres the exact same make and model and pumped to the same pressure? You do not necessarily need to know why, but it is vital that they are. If they are not, you need to change as many as needed to make sure they are. It is by far the best practice to replace all 4 tyres at the same time, but if 2 tyres have been replaced, they need to be on the back wheels - ie the tyres with the most tread should be on the back wheels. Essentially all the tyres need to be very near to exactly the same circumference. The only way to ensure this is to use tyres from the same manufacturer as different ones, although they may be the same (for example) 195/80R15 spec, will have different characteristics.

3) Is the VCU to tight? Over time the VCU (described above) will get to tight - it will not be as loose as it needs to be to allow for those slight difference in tyre wear and cornering differences between wheels. You can immediately detect if this has occurred if when turning corners the car feels like it is applying the brakes. However, problems can occur before you feel this sensation, so the VCU should be tested. This can be done using the "One Wheel Up Test". You jack 1 rear wheel up, put a 32mm socket on the hub nut in the middle, strap a bar tot he socket's ratchet and a weight to the end of the bar. You take the time it takes to turn 45 degrees from "1:30 to 3". To get accurate timings use a bar of 1.2m and a weight of 5kg. You are looking for a time under 1 minute. It has been said that LR recommend that the VCU be treated as a "service item" and replaced every 70,000 miles. However, there's no documentation to back this up plus some fail before this and others last much longer, so testing the VCU is the only sure way of knowing how it is performing. You can buy replacement new GKN VCUs or reconditioned ones. Only buy reconditioned ones from a reputable supplier as there have been many scams with recon VCUs over the years.



These are simple tests that all Freelander owners should be aware of and perform regularly. If your car is failing the tyre or VCU tests, you should resolve them as quickly as possible, or remove the prop shafts until you can.

There is lots of information on LandyZone, and the internet in general, about how the Freelander transmission works. If you read it, you will understand why these tests are important.

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Jon Dor said:

Thanks for posting this invaluable information, GG.
I wish I'd read it last night, BEFORE I bought this one.
I just went out, torch in hand, to discover its only 2WD. I really wanted another 4WD until my P38 is fixed.
I'm annoyed at myself as, 2 years or more ago, my P38 front propshaft needed replacing, so I drove it 60 miles or so to a P38 breaker for a replacement
Mike.

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GrumpyGel said:

That is not un common. Lots, maybe most(?), have had their props removed.

It's 50/50 whether you can simply fit replacement props and (recon) VCU... or need to replace IRD and/or diff as well. Therr are threads on it.

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Jon Dor said:

Thanks for your input GG.
Your reply has obviated me having to post again to ask what an IRD is
Mike.

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GrumpyGel said:

Its basically a front diff with a direct drive PTO to the prop shafts to drive the back axle. The VCU which splits the prop shaft into 2 prevents wind up (when its in good condition). Sort of a transfer box, but it isnt.

There's a schematic image on this thread...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-ird-drive-ratio.280728/

Searching on here or Google will give info on how F1 transmission works.

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Jon Dor said:

Thanks for that useful info. I just saw "vacant" propshaft flanges front and rear, cursed a bit...a LOT...then headed back indoors.
I'll try tomorrow to get the car on a garage ramp or, failing that, on those cheapo ones I can borrow at the boatyard.
M.

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Alibro said:

The propshaft you fit needs to have a good VCU i.e. it needs to be able to turn with effort, most for sale on Gumtree or Facebook Marketplace will probably NOT be suitable.
If the VCU you fit is too tight it will destroy your rear dif and/or the IRD.

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GrumpyGel said:

2) Are all the tyres the exact same make and model and pumped to the same pressure?

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Atomician said:

For a mondo style, is the tyres thing just as important or will it be ok to replace just front or just back as normal?

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GrumpyGel said:

These points have been written so many times, I just want to put them in a thread by themselves so a link can be used rather than typing them out each time! This relates only to Freelander 1 vehicles.

Freelander like all cars can have many different faults. Lights can stop working, leaks can occur, engines can run rough etc etc - they just need to be fixed as with any car. Generally I've found my Freelander to have fantastic reliability and have suffered very few faults.

However, the way the Freelander transmission works is unlike most cars. If not cared for, it will often destroy the transmission with a good chance that it won't be economically viable to fix. However, there are some simple things that should be done to stop this happening...

1) Does your car still have its prop shafts installed? If you look under the car, you will see the exhaust running from the front to back, but you should also see 2 prop shafts separated by a 'device' supported by 2 bearings - this is the Viscous Coupling Unit (the VCU). Are these bits there?

These props run from the "IRD" at the front to the rear differential and provide the drive to the rear axle to make the car '4WD'. If they are missing, your car has been converted to 2WD and the following points do not apply.

2) Are all the tyres the exact same make and model and pumped to the same pressure? You do not necessarily need to know why, but it is vital that they are. If they are not, you need to change as many as needed to make sure they are. It is by far the best practice to replace all 4 tyres at the same time, but if 2 tyres have been replaced, they need to be on the back wheels - ie the tyres with the most tread should be on the back wheels. Essentially all the tyres need to be very near to exactly the same circumference. The only way to ensure this is to use tyres from the same manufacturer as different ones, although they may be the same (for example) 195/80R15 spec, will have different characteristics.

3) Is the VCU to tight? Over time the VCU (described above) will get to tight - it will not be as loose as it needs to be to allow for those slight difference in tyre wear and cornering differences between wheels. You can immediately detect if this has occurred if when turning corners the car feels like it is applying the brakes. However, problems can occur before you feel this sensation, so the VCU should be tested. This can be done using the "One Wheel Up Test". You jack 1 rear wheel up, put a 32mm socket on the hub nut in the middle, strap a bar tot he socket's ratchet and a weight to the end of the bar. You take the time it takes to turn 45 degrees from "1:30 to 3". To get accurate timings use a bar of 1.2m and a weight of 5kg. You are looking for a time under 1 minute. It has been said that LR recommend that the VCU be treated as a "service item" and replaced every 70,000 miles. However, there's no documentation to back this up plus some fail before this and others last much longer, so testing the VCU is the only sure way of knowing how it is performing. You can buy replacement new GKN VCUs or reconditioned ones. Only buy reconditioned ones from a reputable supplier as there have been many scams with recon VCUs over the years.



These are simple tests that all Freelander owners should be aware of and perform regularly. If your car is failing the tyre or VCU tests, you should resolve them as quickly as possible, or remove the prop shafts until you can.

There is lots of information on LandyZone, and the internet in general, about how the Freelander transmission works. If you read it, you will understand why these tests are important.

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GerryN said:

Hi everyone Gerry here thanks for allowing me to join, Now Ihave been looking at a 53 freelander 1.8 petrol usual handle fault on tailgate with the rust moth having been busy. would this be an mot fail? 2nd and possibly a worrying problem "a slight noise" when going around round abouts or turning corners lady has been advised by a "profesional" its a prop shaft on its way out and would need cutting Off?? really? Iwas wondering possible drive shaft? any advise please, it is a low price and short mot wondered if with possible prop noise it would be worth the risk?

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GrumpyGel said:

Dunno if the tailgate handle is a MOT fail.

Noises going around turns in a F1 should put you on high alert! It may be something cheap & simple - but it could indicate a problem that has been happening for a while and worn some very expensive parts.

I don't think its even possible for the prop shafts to be on their way out, but its possible components on them may be. Its possible there are worn UJs, CV or support bearings on the props at not to much cost, but you have to ask why they have worn. All can and do wear out over time, especially the support bearings - but even then they can be assisted by other factors. Its just bolts to remove the props (and a chisel and big lump hammer to separate the props to replace support bearings). Pretty sure all these things would be noisy whether cornering or going straight - although they may/would be worse when cornering.

He may means drive shafts (ie from diffs to hubs). Just like a FWD car, if the CV joints have worn they may make noise when cornering - however, this is usually a clicking noise. Undo bolts on strut, pull hub back and screw driver to pop drive shaft cups out to remove. No cutting! It is usual that the complete drive shaft is replaced if there are problems.

Really, you need to try and identify where the noise is coming from. Then try and work out why. On Freelander noises when cornering immediately flag wind up issues. It may be internal within IRD or diff #expensive. The VCU won't make any noises whether its working fine, or trashing the rest of the drive train.

The 3 tests listed in the first post should be performed which would immediately identify issues. Even then, there are things which I'm sure have been mentioned through this thread...

1) The first parts says to check for prop shafts being installed indicating the car is 4WD (OK AWD). It is possible that the IRD has been frigged to make the car FWD only. You can test this by jacking 1 rear wheel off the ground and turning it. If it does not turn (and it not being held by the brake), then the car is still 4WD. If the wheel turns and the prop shafts turn, then it is FWD.

2) The tests say to check the tyres are all the same and that the VCU isn't to tight. While these are valid tests and will show that the tyres and VCU are in good condition (or not) - it does not show that they have always been like that. They may previously have been faulty causing damage to the IRD. Really the oil in the IRD needs checking to ensure there are no (not many) metallic flecks suspended in it. This will indicate previous faulty tyres/VCU have worn/damaged the bearings inside the IRD. Ideally remove the rear pinion and check the condition of crown and pinion gears for wear and/or broken teeth. Make sure there is not excessive play in pinion. This is difficult to do when viewing a car!

Can also check the diff oil to.

In short, I'm not sure how much advice can be given for just a slight noise on cornering. I think the questions are (1) How cheap is it? (2) Are you prepared to put effort and money into it if there's problems? (3) If there are problems and you want to bail, can you flick it on and not lose (to much) money?

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