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Tests new Freelander 1 owners should do on their car

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by GrumpyGel, Mar 15, 2017.

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  1. Bute

    Bute Member

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    I park on a fairly steep hill so God help me.

    Will be replacing soon it's on the to do list.
     
  2. blue beasty

    blue beasty Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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    Stuck....no not on slightly damp grass...stickified...

    Stucked..

    Look, it's oop top alright!
     
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  3. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks, bakery credits in the post :D

    Ohh and.... (needs sound on) (and it was very moist) (rescued by a 110 purchased in London and driven to NZ, with boats over the wet bits)

     
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  4. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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    I too, would really like the main points to be collected up and put into a "sticky". I'd also like to add one - a creaking noise from the back when letting the clutch out. The infamous chassis fatigue crack problem!
     
  5. Honeymonster6

    Honeymonster6 New Member

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  6. Honeymonster6

    Honeymonster6 New Member

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    Hi can you help me I have just purchased a MK1 Towed our swift 480 with no probs but had to take off the spare any ideas rather than that
     
  7. Madmustang

    Madmustang Well-Known Member

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    Can you start a new thread please
     
  8. websun

    websun Active Member

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    I've now learn the test of the rear subframe can be important. Seems to crack on many of them now, uneconomically to fix.
     
  9. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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  10. websun

    websun Active Member

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    Hi thank you.
    I know I ended up in that thread before scrapping my other freelander. This is not an easy fix for me, I was unwilling to do the job for no reason at all.
    Just seemed a bit too much, when welding is required I usually scrap the car.
     
  11. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough. I won't pretend it's an easy job! Like you, when a car needs welding, I usually think its days are numbered, but this is a bit different, in my view. Usually, when they need welding, it's because they're rusty and even though not all of it might need welding *now*, the rest won't be far behind. Once you start, every subsequent MOT is likely to find another rusty bit. However, in this case, it's a fatigue crack rather than corrosion. It's just a poor bit of design where a bit of the vehicle's structure wasn't up to the loads that it was supposed to withstand. With a decent re-work to strengthen it and spread the load over more of the chassis, I wouldn't expect to have to do it again in the car's life. The rest of my Freelander is remarkably rust-free - which is why I decided to go ahead and do this job. I'd have thought that a welder might do the job for a few hundred quid.
     
  12. 4bi4

    4bi4 Member

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    I'm getting the same thing in reverse on full lock. I bought the car a year ago and it looks like the viscous unit has been changed as well as the rear drive shaft. How long ago is anyone's guess because in Spain parts always look newish!
     
  13. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    You can't tell the age or how well the VCU is performing by looking at it. If you're getting a braking effect you want to be doing the 1 wheel up test and getting a recon VCU if necessary.
     
  14. 4bi4

    4bi4 Member

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    This I will be doing soon! The list of checks grows longer!
     
  15. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    VCU units always look like new unless they have been scraped on rocks. The paint on them is very tough and will look perfect no matter how old or rusty the car.
     
  16. Hoops

    Hoops New Member

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  17. Hoops

    Hoops New Member

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    Great Post.
    I have a 2L TD4 and recently started feeling slight vibration that wasn't there before, checked all mountings, bearing play, even tyre weights then caught this thread. did one up wheel test with 1.2m bar and 5KG weight. took over 6 minutes to drop from 45 degrees to horizontal!! My un-expert opinion tells me the VCU has virtually seized so can't drive the car in its current condition as understand this can screw everything that is expensive. Can i remove rear prop just until i find a replacement VCU
     
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  18. paul99

    paul99 Active Member

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    Yes, look for Mondo Mode on the forums for more information. Also, check out Bell Engineering for VCU refurbishment. They have a good reputation around the forums.
     
  19. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Good on you for looking into the problem :D

    Yeh, as said, the props can be removed. I'd take the whole 2 props and VCU off as a single unit. Its the sort of job that might take you a little while, but only takes 1/2 hour once you've done it a few times.

    Its the sort of job that's a lot easier with more room under the car, but you don't want to much cos the bits are heavy and you need to get them down to the ground with minimal fuss. If I'm not using my inspection pit, I drive the car up onto blocks on 1 side. Then loosen the accessible bolts where the rear prop joins the rear diff and front prop joins the IRD. Then roll the car forward (or back) a bit and do the remaining bolts. Lower the props 1/2 way down onto supports (eg wooden blocks) as you don't want to over extend them. Then trolly jack under the VCU for support, remove the 4 bolts securing it via its bearings and lower.

    The bolts (definitely on the IRD forget about the diff) are torx head so much easier if you have torx sockets - I did it OK with regular hex sockets the first time, but can damage the bolts I suppose.

    Some people remove the props permanently, but that 'may' be a MOT fail now so if you are stopped by plod or have an accident could be an issue and you should tell your insurance company the car has been modified. If its only off for a couple of days - you can make you're own judgements on that.

    When you come to replacing the VCU, there's a great, often used, video showing how to separate the props from the VCU...

     
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  20. Hoops

    Hoops New Member

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    thanks guys, really appreciate the advice
     
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