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Tests new Freelander 1 owners should do on their car

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by GrumpyGel, Mar 15, 2017.

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  1. Bute

    Bute Member

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    I park on a fairly steep hill so God help me.

    Will be replacing soon it's on the to do list.
     
  2. blue beasty

    blue beasty Leaks an prone to bits dropping off Global Moderator

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    Stuck....no not on slightly damp grass...stickified...

    Stucked..

    Look, it's oop top alright!
     
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  3. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks, bakery credits in the post :D

    Ohh and.... (needs sound on) (and it was very moist) (rescued by a 110 purchased in London and driven to NZ, with boats over the wet bits)

     
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  4. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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    I too, would really like the main points to be collected up and put into a "sticky". I'd also like to add one - a creaking noise from the back when letting the clutch out. The infamous chassis fatigue crack problem!
     
  5. Honeymonster6

    Honeymonster6 New Member

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  6. Honeymonster6

    Honeymonster6 New Member

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    Hi can you help me I have just purchased a MK1 Towed our swift 480 with no probs but had to take off the spare any ideas rather than that
     
  7. Madmustang

    Madmustang Well-Known Member

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    Can you start a new thread please
     
  8. websun

    websun Active Member

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    I've now learn the test of the rear subframe can be important. Seems to crack on many of them now, uneconomically to fix.
     
  9. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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  10. websun

    websun Active Member

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    Hi thank you.
    I know I ended up in that thread before scrapping my other freelander. This is not an easy fix for me, I was unwilling to do the job for no reason at all.
    Just seemed a bit too much, when welding is required I usually scrap the car.
     
  11. Avocet1

    Avocet1 Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough. I won't pretend it's an easy job! Like you, when a car needs welding, I usually think its days are numbered, but this is a bit different, in my view. Usually, when they need welding, it's because they're rusty and even though not all of it might need welding *now*, the rest won't be far behind. Once you start, every subsequent MOT is likely to find another rusty bit. However, in this case, it's a fatigue crack rather than corrosion. It's just a poor bit of design where a bit of the vehicle's structure wasn't up to the loads that it was supposed to withstand. With a decent re-work to strengthen it and spread the load over more of the chassis, I wouldn't expect to have to do it again in the car's life. The rest of my Freelander is remarkably rust-free - which is why I decided to go ahead and do this job. I'd have thought that a welder might do the job for a few hundred quid.
     
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