Testing EKA Entry

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MrGorsky

MrGorsky

Well-Known Member
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Location
Buckinghamshire.
Hello All,

Being new to P38 ownership I thought I might test the EKS entry procedure before I have to attempt it in the dark and rain with my wife screaming at me about how "You HAD to have a Range Rover, I wanted a Ford Mondeo" etc etc.

Would I have to disconnect the battery first to force an alarm fault, or take the batteries out of my fob?

It seems to me if I just try and unlock it with the key when it's still sync'ed up it'll just start first time? Or doesn't it work that way?

many thanks

Al.
 
Locking it with the fob waiting a whille until BECM goes to sleep, then unlocking with the key should pull a enter EKA code or press fob message. If your EKA then does not work you have a bag of worms of your own making.
 
wammers said:
Locking it with the fob waiting a whille until BECM goes to sleep, then unlocking with the key should pull a enter EKA code or press fob message. If your EKA then does not work you have a bag of worms of your own making.
Click to expand...

"Bag of worms"? More like "world of hurt"! :D
 
wammers said:
If your EKA then does not work you have a bag of worms of your own making.
Click to expand...

Ha! Good point.

I got it (my code) from the the main dealer just the other day.

It was the dealer that sold the car originally all those years ago so I'd have thought it's the right one...?

Perhaps it's a good idea to drive the thing to the main dealers, and do the test on their forecourt next to the service bay.

At least then if anything went wrong there'd be help and a Testbook at hand!
 
Well I got my wish!

Been for a week in sunny spain, parked car at Gatwick, and returned to a flat battery.

Got the car park man to come and give me a jump start whilst my wife shouted at me and my children cried/ imagined he was fireman Sam.

The drivers door was already open, with a key in the ignition when he connected up the jump leads. As soon as he did, the central locking opened, and I got the windows not set messages, etc etc.

Closed drivers door, 4 turns to anticlockwise, and then entered the EKA code as per the drivers manual.

Started up first time! So it does work!
 
MrGorsky said:
Well I got my wish!

Been for a week in sunny spain, parked car at Gatwick, and returned to a flat battery.

Got the car park man to come and give me a jump start whilst my wife shouted at me and my children cried/ imagined he was fireman Sam.

The drivers door was already open, with a key in the ignition when he connected up the jump leads. As soon as he did, the central locking opened, and I got the windows not set messages, etc etc.

Closed drivers door, 4 turns to anticlockwise, and then entered the EKA code as per the drivers manual.

Started up first time! So it does work!
Click to expand...

It would have started without putting the code in if there was no enter EKA code or press key fob message. So you still don't know.
 
It did say Engine Disabled, and/or Enter Keycode, too, but it was cycling through about the windows not being set, so I'm not sure just what it was telling me.

I just went straight to the code entering bit, and hoped for the best. I was under duress at the time!
 
Last edited:
MrGorsky said:
It did say Engine Disabled, and/or Enter Keycode, too, but it was cycling through about the windows not being set, so I'm not sure just what it was telling me.

I just went straight to the code entering bit, and hoped for the best. I was under duress at the time!
Click to expand...
Ok you didn't say about engine disabled message. But quite often just pressing the fob will clear that. Unless the fobs not working of course.
 
wammers said:
Unless the fobs not working of course.
Click to expand...

Fob LED flashes when I press the button (and locks and unlocks the car now the battery has charged) so thats fine. The car was totally dead when I got there though. It wouldn't even light the interior lights or open the other doors, or anything so I assumed my fob would have lost sync anyway.

Does it not always loose sync with a flat battery then?

The battery is newer than the car and smaller than the battery tray, so I assume it's been replaced by a smaller one in the past.

I've got the latest RF receiver thing, but if it went flat in a week, I'll look into replacing it as soon as I can. Is there any brand/ size that people swear by, or should I just buy the biggest one that'll fit in there!
 
wammers said:
Locking it with the fob waiting a whille until BECM goes to sleep, then unlocking with the key should pull a enter EKA code or press fob message. If your EKA then does not work you have a bag of worms of your own making.
Click to expand...

That's odd Wammers, 'cos on one of my fobs, only the 'lock' button works, and you have to unlock with the key. It was my only key for a while as it was the only one that came with the car when I bought it. Never had the engine disabled nor any message asking me to enter EKA.
 
MrGorsky said:
Fob LED flashes when I press the button (and locks and unlocks the car now the battery has charged) so thats fine. The car was totally dead when I got there though. It wouldn't even light the interior lights or open the other doors, or anything so I assumed my fob would have lost sync anyway.

Does it not always loose sync with a flat battery then?

The battery is newer than the car and smaller than the battery tray, so I assume it's been replaced by a smaller one in the past.

I've got the latest RF receiver thing, but if it went flat in a week, I'll look into replacing it as soon as I can. Is there any brand/ size that people swear by, or should I just buy the biggest one that'll fit in there!
Click to expand...


Not always no. But you did ok and got it sorted that's all that matters.
 
MrGorsky said:
Fob LED flashes when I press the button (and locks and unlocks the car now the battery has charged) so thats fine. The car was totally dead when I got there though. It wouldn't even light the interior lights or open the other doors, or anything so I assumed my fob would have lost sync anyway.

Does it not always loose sync with a flat battery then?

The battery is newer than the car and smaller than the battery tray, so I assume it's been replaced by a smaller one in the past.

I've got the latest RF receiver thing, but if it went flat in a week, I'll look into replacing it as soon as I can. Is there any brand/ size that people swear by, or should I just buy the biggest one that'll fit in there!
Click to expand...

I got an Alphaline 135AH 1000CCA from Battery megastore on line, £98 ish delivered, 4 year warranty, it's the biggest battery that will fit in the compartment on the diesel, I assume the petrol has the same battery compartment. I can now leave it for 3 weeks and it still starts:)
I have no connection to them.
 
Then that is what I'll go for!

I've got a nearly new one in my Jag (that I'm about to sell) that would fit but typically, the bloody terminals are on the wrong sides.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
I got an Alphaline 135AH 1000CCA from Battery megastore on line, £98 ish delivered, 4 year warranty, it's the biggest battery that will fit in the compartment on the diesel, I assume the petrol has the same battery compartment. I can now leave it for 3 weeks and it still starts:)
I have no connection to them.
Click to expand...

The one I think you've bought is this one...

Alphaline / / Battery

It has the terminals in the centre of the battery. Is there enough slack in the leads to get it connected easily?

I can't see one of similar spec that has the terminals at the front.
 
MrGorsky said:
The one I think you've bought is this one...

Alphaline / / Battery

It has the terminals in the centre of the battery. Is there enough slack in the leads to get it connected easily?

I can't see one of similar spec that has the terminals at the front.
Click to expand...

No that is not the one, the order code is C31-1000 Alphaline. the terminals are in the correct place. It's listed on the web site under Range Rover P38 from memory:)

OK just looked at the site, the new part number is MF31-1000. The terminals are not actually in the middle and the cables will reach, at least they will on the diesel.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
No that is not the one, the order code is C31-1000 Alphaline. the terminals are in the correct place. It's listed on the web site under Range Rover P38 from memory:)

OK just looked at the site, the new part number is MF31-1000. The terminals are not actually in the middle and the cables will reach, at least they will on the diesel.
Click to expand...

Just ordered one for myself... one currently in there looks pretty old, and needs charging frequently. Figure if I'm gonna change the alternator, might as well do the battery as well...
 
So, do you think it'll fit a 4.6 V8?

I've been looking through RAVE and I can't find a picture or anything to show the position of the battery on a diesel, let alone the tray size.

Are they all in the same place? RH front of engine?
 
Well I can confirm that the Alphaline MF31-1000 does fit in to the V8 battery compartment, and the leads will reach the terminals....just.

It's a bit tight for the positive because the terminals on this model are in the middle, and not towards the front like you'd expect. But it did fit without straining, you just have to use all the slack there is, and be careful with your routing.

The tie down strap was the bigger problem for me, because of the height of the battery the strap only just goes over the top. I got it to fit, but ideally you'd extend the height of the rear threaded post by 10mm to give a bit of extra clearance. Probably to much work though!

Finally thanks to Datatek for the suggestion and Battery Megastore for excellent service. I ordered mine at about 12.30 yesterday, and it arrived at 8.30 this morning. Fitted it by 9.

I love it when a plan comes together.
 
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