P38A temporary death

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Update: I've taken the fuse box out again and this time managed to get the board or to see underneath. It's extremely clean in the most part, i didn't realise it was 2 boards connected with a ribbon!

There's a couple of connecting posts next to eachother that are a bit green and crusty but I've cleaned them up and the solder looks good and intact.
Will the ribbon be ok? Is there anything i need to test while it's apart?
Thanks!!
 
Update: I've taken the fuse box out again and this time managed to get the board or to see underneath. It's extremely clean in the most part, i didn't realise it was 2 boards connected with a ribbon!

There's a couple of connecting posts next to eachother that are a bit green and crusty but I've cleaned them up and the solder looks good and intact.
Will the ribbon be ok? Is there anything i need to test while it's apart?
Thanks!!
The ribbon should be OK. If you have a magnifying glass, look for hairline cracks in solder joints on the PCB's.
 
Thanks, just done that but what i have noticed, which is probably the issue, connections bcm2 and bcm3 don't appear to be soldered and are loose!!
I'm assuming that is bad. Is it possible for a numpty with no special electrical tools, to re solder? Looks like a major operation and beyond my skill level to split the boards
 
Thanks, just done that but what i have noticed, which is probably the issue, connections bcm2 and bcm3 don't appear to be soldered and are loose!!
I'm assuming that is bad. Is it possible for a numpty with no special electrical tools, to re solder? Looks like a major operation and beyond my skill level to split the boards
I cannot remember if they should b soldered or just bolted. You will need a pretty big soldering iron to solder them to the PCB track
 
Bcm1 is nice and tight, figures the others should be, they also have fairly hefty wires connecting to them, but i can't see how the connection is made

Cheers
 
Bcm1 is nice and tight, figures the others should be, they also have fairly hefty wires connecting to them, but i can't see how the connection is made

Cheers
They connect to the track on the PCB from memory, but I cannot remember if they just clamp or are soldered. I can have a look at my spare fuse box tomorrow if it helps.
 
Can anyone tell me what connections bcm2 and bcm3 are for and where the other end connects?
It would be nice to know I've found the actual root of the problem rather than yet another thing that needs to be fixed
ie if power to those posts was interrupted, would that cause the engine, dash and left headlight to cut out?
 
Can anyone tell me what connections bcm2 and bcm3 are for and where the other end connects?
It would be nice to know I've found the actual root of the problem rather than yet another thing that needs to be fixed
ie if power to those posts was interrupted, would that cause the engine, dash and left headlight to cut out?
They feed the BECM, I can't tell you exactly what they feed in the BECM without delving into RAVE, but you have a good idea of what they feed from your faults.
 
They feed the BECM, I can't tell you exactly what they feed in the BECM without delving into RAVE, but you have a good idea of what they feed from your faults.
Ok thanks, just wanted to try and double check there wasn't anything else
If they go to becm then that sounds like the smoking gun
 
Yes i was planning to keep and repair on some cold winters day when i don't want to play out.
If i sell the p38 and haven't done anything with it then yeah, will send it on
 
Back
Top