L322 TDV8 fails to crank after switching off until basic reset

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M

marzipan

Member
Posts
14
Location
Bolton
My current problem does not appear on the forum but I am hopeful that this will interest other contributors.
My car will unlock with either fob the car cranks and starts easily, everything works.
However if I switch off then the fob will not lock or unlock the doors, the car will not crank / start - not even a click. However the stop lights come on and remain on.
After allowing a suitable "go to sleep " period if I disconnect the battery and connect the +ve and -ve leads together for a short time everything works again -i.e.the car will start and the key fob operates the door locking as normal.
Switching off causes the non start condition to occur again and can be "fixed" as above.
The car has had a new battery and reconditioned starter motor.​
 
Someone had a similar fault some years ago ,,,,Anyway,His, her, fix was to strip the ignition switch n clean wi wd40 not the best cleaner but it worked for someone .......RR:rolleyes:
 
Thank you for responding I am struggling with this issue and the garage I had decided to take it to in Bury has closed due to Covid 19

Not had it long but it did this "trick" at a petrol station including the stop lights coming on of their own accord, the RAC man didn't find a specific cause but suspected the starter I didn't see exactly what he did but he said he had done a reboot (probably what I did).

I got a recon starter and fitted it and a new battery as the other did not hold charge even disconnected. This seemed to resolve the problem of starting.

Prior to the first breakdown I had a parasitic drain of several amps which was significantly reduced by removing fuse 49 and to a lesser extent fuse 27.

The car at this time started like a good un every time and I was then going to move on to further investigation of the parasitic drain. Unplugging sat nav had biggest effect.

However I noticed whilst out in it that the washers didn't work. On return home looking in the manual it looked as though that was fuse 47 which I pulled but it was OK.

Next I tried replacing fuse 27 and bingo the washers worked BUT I then got the problem I posted.
I've still got it with fuse 27 in or out and with fuse 49 in or out

After a reset everything works until the key is switched off and I get the strange symptom of the stop lights on which I have not seen mentioned on any posts.
I have also added an additional earth lead from bell housing to subframe and cleaned and remade every earth connection I could find - they were all in pristine condition so I was not surprised this had no effect.
I planned to remove and clean the BCM but have not found it yet it doesn't appear to be under the front seats but perhaps it's hiding.
Bye the way the started solenoid contacts were badly oxidised but cleaned up as did the commutator and it now works on the bench but the recon one definitely spins the engine faster that the old one did.
In answer to your questions it was giving problems before I changed the number plate bulb and it is not LED. The tow-bar is a factory fit and I have not plugged in yet.
Does the "trick" with the wire +ve to -ve reboot the BCM or does it reboot all control modules?
I should also mention I had a bit of fun with the suspension entirely of my own making whilst struggling with the starter I managed to break the ride height sensor joint at the front which gave some peculiar effects but is sorted now - I will post some info on this once I have sorted my current issues.
On the positive car when working this is the best vehicle I have ever owned and with only 43000 miles I was expecting better.
Thanks again for your input and help everywhere appears dry inside but as a former disco 2 owner I don't open sunroofs.
 
S
marzipan said:
Thank you for responding I am struggling with this issue and the garage I had decided to take it to in Bury has closed due to Covid 19

Not had it long but it did this "trick" at a petrol station including the stop lights coming on of their own accord, the RAC man didn't find a specific cause but suspected the starter I didn't see exactly what he did but he said he had done a reboot (probably what I did).

I got a recon starter and fitted it and a new battery as the other did not hold charge even disconnected. This seemed to resolve the problem of starting.

Prior to the first breakdown I had a parasitic drain of several amps which was significantly reduced by removing fuse 49 and to a lesser extent fuse 27.

The car at this time started like a good un every time and I was then going to move on to further investigation of the parasitic drain. Unplugging sat nav had biggest effect.

However I noticed whilst out in it that the washers didn't work. On return home looking in the manual it looked as though that was fuse 47 which I pulled but it was OK.

Next I tried replacing fuse 27 and bingo the washers worked BUT I then got the problem I posted.
I've still got it with fuse 27 in or out and with fuse 49 in or out

After a reset everything works until the key is switched off and I get the strange symptom of the stop lights on which I have not seen mentioned on any posts.
I have also added an additional earth lead from bell housing to subframe and cleaned and remade every earth connection I could find - they were all in pristine condition so I was not surprised this had no effect.
I planned to remove and clean the BCM but have not found it yet it doesn't appear to be under the front seats but perhaps it's hiding.
Bye the way the started solenoid contacts were badly oxidised but cleaned up as did the commutator and it now works on the bench but the recon one definitely spins the engine faster that the old one did.
In answer to your questions it was giving problems before I changed the number plate bulb and it is not LED. The tow-bar is a factory fit and I have not plugged in yet.
Does the "trick" with the wire +ve to -ve reboot the BCM or does it reboot all control modules?
I should also mention I had a bit of fun with the suspension entirely of my own making whilst struggling with the starter I managed to break the ride height sensor joint at the front which gave some peculiar effects but is sorted now - I will post some info on this once I have sorted my current issues.
On the positive car when working this is the best vehicle I have ever owned and with only 43000 miles I was expecting better.
Thanks again for your input and help everywhere appears dry inside but as a former disco 2 owner I don't open sunroofs.
Click to expand...
Shorting the leads effectively resets all ECU's.
If the SATNAV is causing a drain, have you checked for damp in the SATNAV & other modules in the rear corner. Water ingress is a very common problem causing many issues.
 
Thanks again for your suggestion, I have looked in there and it was bone dry although there was a light dusting of corrosion on one of the large units - down and to the right of the satnav. I have pulled plugs to look for water and corrosion but found none - to be honest before the latest problem I was planning to remove the units to delve deeper. Also remade the earths in that area although they looked perfect. There is a plastic mac type cover at back but no evidence of water here but I think removal of the units is on my to do list.
 
T%he
marzipan said:
Thanks again for your suggestion, I have looked in there and it was bone dry although there was a light dusting of corrosion on one of the large units - down and to the right of the satnav. I have pulled plugs to look for water and corrosion but found none - to be honest before the latest problem I was planning to remove the units to delve deeper. Also remade the earths in that area although they looked perfect. There is a plastic mac type cover at back but no evidence of water here but I think removal of the units is on my to do list.
Click to expand...
The plastic mac diverts the rainwater but does not stop condensation. Look carefully at the connectors for missing pins that have corroded off.
 
Ok will do that tomorrow and post a reply.
Do you think a diagnostic tool would help? not that I have one.
Do you know where the bcm is? I have seen a youtube showing it under the drivers seat
Regards
 
marzipan said:
Ok will do that tomorrow and post a reply.
Do you think a diagnostic tool would help? not that I have one.
Do you know where the bcm is? I have seen a youtube showing it under the drivers seat
Regards
Click to expand...
I'm not up to date with the newer ones. The BCM is under the seat on the P38 but I don't think it is on your car. I know about the problems with the modules in the rear quarter from a friends L322. @Saint.V8 is your man.
Diagnostics would most likely help Do not forget the ignition switch as a potential source of your problem.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again, the ignition switch looks like fun apparently 8 hours labour to get to switch!!! I'll give it a squirt of something. It seems electronic to me as I can't think of another reason why stop lights would come on and all systems are restored with a hard reset of the bcu / ecu.
I can't find another mention of an identical problem anywhere.
 
I still have the problem.
I have now fitted a replacement stop light switch which had no effect, I have removed the LCM found no corrosion but cleaned the plug and socket contacts anyway, I removed the ABS plug again no corrosion but cleaned anyway.
I had a suggestion that the LCM was the likely culprit, as it not the BCM was responsible for triggering the stop light both on pedal operation and via the HDC unit.
I bought a Foxwell NT530 which reported data error and no communication with the LCM (this is a module it can normally check)
Tried contacting some independants but non appear open at the moment.
Any suggestions would be appreciated so far I've had one wonderful drive and 7 weeks VOR. Why did I sell my disco 2?
 
No idea about these cars so I don't know if there is a start inhibitor switch which stop the starter motor operating but could the stop lamp bulbs coming on also be making the car think it's in gear?
Had an odd electrical issue on my Classic a couple of years ago (stop light staying on) & that turned out to be a faulty stop light bulb. Bulb checked out fine with a multimeter but substituting a new one cured the problem. Refitting the duff reintroduced the problem so I knew I'd found the culprit.
Comments here about cheap bulbs or incorrect ones plus a bit more wiring to have a look at: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/weirdest-problem-ever-can-anyone-help.344072/
 
pwood999 said:
Google search for the brake light symptom finds similar scenarios to yours, and two possible solutions. Always worth searching the issue and the symptoms separately.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/solved-brakes-lights-on-with-ignition-off.342686/
Check trailer lights module.

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/range-rover-l322-brake-lights-coming-on-with-engine-off.136855/
Check & clean ignition as previously suggested.
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding, I hadn't replaced any bulbs before the problem started. I think the clue must be in the fact that after a hard reset everything appears to work as normal but after switching off the fobs don't work and it will not crank.
I will have a look at the items you suggest, thanks again.
 
pwood999 said:
Google search for the brake light symptom finds similar scenarios to yours, and two possible solutions. Always worth searching the issue and the symptoms separately.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/solved-brakes-lights-on-with-ignition-off.342686/
Check trailer lights module.

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/range-rover-l322-brake-lights-coming-on-with-engine-off.136855/
Check & clean ignition as previously suggested.
Click to expand...
Hi thanks for replying sorry I didn't reply earlier.
I have been looking at all posts with similar symptoms both on this site and the fullfatrr forum. One suggestion was that the LCM controlled the brake lights and also caused the brake lights to come on with HDC. and also suggested that it could be corrosion in the ABS module.
My Foxwell reports error / no comm with this unit.
I hoped to try the ignition switch next but cannot find how to access it. Mine is the dashboard mounted model - 2009.
I have two manuals one of which does not cover the facelifted model and one which does but is lacking in detail.
 
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