TD6 Turbo change how too

Well Sunday I was accelerating up a hill off a roundabout and the rpm got to 4k and just stopped I very quickly backed off then throttled again and it carried on as normal, I though that's weird so dropped my wife off at home and popped to work and thought I'd blank off my EGR and clean my MAF (which was filthy) then went and found a hill and pushed it and all seemed fine.

Then I set off home where it suddenly did the same again so I pulled up and tried to again to see if I could narrow it down and this time it spat its dummy out and there was a nasty noise and no more boost the noise was a rattle/metal on metal squeal.

Funnily enough when I had the car on the ramp last Tuesday night when I was looking over it before buying it I remarked to the previous owner that the turbo looked a bit tiered and it made a constant low volume whistle at idle and I used this as a bargaining chip after telling him I suspected the turbo was on borrowed time.

Any way yesterday I had a quick look on line for a guide to use on removing the turbo and I found next to nothing all I found was a youtube video where the chap was very misleading after saying you need to remove the cam cover and injectors to gain access to the turbo now this is a very long winded (autodata time for cam cover removal is 5hrs) and very much the wrong way of doing it.

From the position of already having the pollen filter part of the bulkhead and the air filter and air box to turbo pipe removed which is needed to diagnose the turbo as knackered from this position it took me just 25 mins to get the turbo off and on the bench total inc the first part of stripping the air box total time 35-40 mins so dead easy.


The trick is once the air filter is removed in the bottom of the air box there is 3 grommets that you can remove:



Then under that you'll find a heat shield which has a removable panel that just un-clips:



once this is removed you can access the 3 turbo to manifold bolts to remove them the bolts are 12 point 12mm bolts so you'll need a multipoint socket to undo them:



I only cracked them off at this point then nipped them back up because you will need the turbo held solid when undoing the turbo to down pipe bolts from underneath.

Next you need to remove the turbo to inter-cooler pipe off the turbo by just undoing the jubilee clip and sliding it off and flex it out the way.

Once thats out the way you can undo the oil feed pipe from the block the other end stays attached to the turbo till it's out and on the bench:



Then you can go underneath and first undo the 2 down pipe to turbo nuts:



Next you need to remove the oil return pipe 2 10mm bolts at the turbo and the jubilee clip at the block:



Then remove the bracket from the bottom of the turbo with the 3 13mm bolts



Once this is done the exhaust needs to be removed because the turbo needs to be removed through the gap the down pipe sits in, I obviously had the use of a ramp so on the floor this will be a little more difficult but doable just unhook the whole system off the rubbers the the entire system can be lowered out the way.

Once this has been done you need to go back up top and remove the turbo to manifold bolts that you cracked off and nipped back up earlier with the last of the 3 bolts you need to support the turbo and once undone gently lower the turbo and rest it on the engine mount below then pop back underneath and pass it through the large gap where the exhaust went through.

Job done the refit is obviously the reverse

Hope this helps anyone looking to change there turbo them selves it is a easy job and can defiantly be done on your drive.

Here's a pic of my knackered exhaust side of the turbine
you can see the a broken blade:



Here's a video showing the play in the shaft:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j30YkfnaVWc

My new turbo will arrive tomorrow morning so I'll slap it on tomorrow night, I'll also change the oil, oil filter, air filter and crank case filter to do all I can to help prolong the life of the new blower.

Wow nice write up mate

That turbo looks well shot !

Get the bmw upgraded crankcase filter. If your current filter is blocked that may well of helped cause the original turbo to fail.

2.0_hippo said:

Wow nice write up mate

That turbo looks well shot !

Get the bmw upgraded crankcase filter. If your current filter is blocked that may well of helped cause the original turbo to fail.

Click to expand...

Thanks,

I had already checked out your write up and ordered it today so will fit it tomorrow, have no idea of the condition of my filter as I've not had it out yet.

dpbayly said:

Thanks,

I had already checked out your write up and ordered it today so will fit it tomorrow, have no idea of the condition of my filter as I've not had it out yet.

Click to expand...

That's good then mate. Fit and forget the new type filter

Chances are the original filter sponge is blocked ! Most of them are blocked as they are never changed as part of the service schedule :S

Thought i would add some pics to this thread as the original ones have gone.
Also to add something that i struggled with was undoing the lower of the two bolts that secure the inlet pipe to the MAF but managed it using a long series ball end allen key to reach it at an angle.
The pipe just pulls off the turbo inlet and EGR pipe, no clips to try and undo.

I have added detail in red to the original thread



The trick is once the air filter is removed in the bottom of the air box there is 3 grommets that you can remove:

Then under that you'll find a heat shield which has a removable panel that just un-clips:

once this is removed you can access the 3 turbo to manifold bolts to remove them the bolts are 12 point 12mm bolts so you'll need a multipoint socket to undo them:


I only cracked them off at this point then nipped them back up because you will need the turbo held solid when undoing the turbo to down pipe bolts from underneath.

Next you need to remove the turbo to inter-cooler pipe off the turbo by just undoing the jubilee clip and sliding it off and flex it out the way.
I didnt even try and get in to undo that pipe, i just disconnected the pipe from the intercooler and removed it with the turbo, there is a open ended support near the intercooler that just bends out the way.

Once thats out the way you can undo the oil feed pipe from the block the other end stays attached to the turbo till it's out and on the bench:

Then you can go underneath and first undo the 2 down pipe to turbo nuts:

Next you need to remove the oil return pipe 2 10mm bolts at the turbo and the jubilee clip at the block:
I just loosened the jubilee clip at the block and left the rest connected to the turbo - there is a load of room to get the turbo out with the exhaust removed.

Then remove the bracket from the bottom of the turbo with the 3 13mm bolts


Once this is done the exhaust needs to be removed because the turbo needs to be removed through the gap the down pipe sits in, I obviously had the use of a ramp so on the floor this will be a little more difficult but doable just unhook the whole system off the rubbers the the entire system can be lowered out the way.

There is only 1 bolt on the centre exhaust support and 2 nuts at the rear supports, 1 either side and i then lowered the rear box down on a trolley jack with a plank of wood across it, and then from the front i lowered the front end down and pushed it back out the way on my own so very easy.



Once this has been done you need to go back up top and remove the turbo to manifold bolts that you cracked off and nipped back up earlier with the last of the 3 bolts you need to support the turbo and once undone gently lower the turbo and rest it on the engine mount below then pop back underneath and pass it through the large gap where the exhaust went through.

Job done the refit is obviously the reverse
To get the turbo back in position on my own i had the bracket connected to the turbo but with the bolt loose so the turbo can be moved. I connected the rear of the two bracket supports to the block but only by a few threads, then the front of the two bracket bolts but again quite loose and then you can swing the turbo into position and start tightening the bracket bolts up and the turbo will gradually line up with the rear of the 3 manifold bolts. i could get that bolt in loosely and then i got underneath and gently levered the turbo round into place with a length of wood to line the other two manifold bolts up and making sure not to cross thread anything. just carefully start tightening the bolts up until all the manifold bolts are in place. i had already stuck a new gasket in place with a bit of coppaslip grease.

To get the heat shield in place working from the top i slid it under the manifold until it lined up with the 3 holes in the air box and held it in place with a magnet and clipped it in.

Hope this helps anyone looking to change there turbo themselves it is an easy job and can definitely be done on your drive.

Great write up I’m hoping the whooshing noise when I accelerate isn’t the turbo on its way out.
Have replaced the intercooler pipes but don’t think there is any difference in the sound. If I have replace the turbo then i’ll Definitely be following your guide.

Whooshing is quite common but normally a boost air leak somewhere and also fault codes present, have a bit more of a search to see if it is EGR related or something else other than the pipes you changed.
Let us know how you get on

holidaychicken said:

Whooshing is quite common but normally a boost air leak somewhere and also fault codes present, have a bit more of a search to see if it is EGR related or something else other than the pipes you changed.
Let us know how you get on

Click to expand...

No fault codes present, gonna give it a service today so will have another look thanks.

Oddly enough the turbo has been on my mind over the weekend. Not that the Golden Girl has shown any signs .......................................yet!
I popped over to see a friend on Friday and walked into a garage full of black smoke and a Vauxhall , which was the cause, feeling very sorry for itself. "Turbo?" I asked, "yes", was the reply. As we stepped into the office to get away from the foul , black stuff, I asked him what had happened. Apparently, they had overfilled the oil, because the gauge on the dash hadnt moved. Thinking "bloody electronics", I said "oh I take it doesnt have a real dipstick just an electronic one?". He replied "it has two real dipsticks", then he waited for me to look puzzled and added " the one in the engine bay and the pr1ck who overfilled it".
That bit out the way, he got the office lady to phone for a price for replacement parts from Vauxhall. I was expecting a couple of thousand and said so. So was surprised when she got off the phone and said £700 plus VAT. My friendly garage owner was also surprised and asked if she had asked about the DPF . Apparently not. She came back out with another price, £1800 plus VAT. There were prices for other bits too but those are the ones that stuck.
Moral of the story: check the dipstick, dipstick!

Swipe said:

No fault codes present, gonna give it a service today so will have another look thanks.

Click to expand...

Whooshing i would say is air, a turbo will normally start to leak oil or whistle loudly I would say.
if you are servicing , make sure you change the crankcase ventilation filter, ideally for the cyclone type.

good info here from Hippo, - cheap to replace and if left will kill the turbo and can lead to a run on - which you really don't want - ask @gold rover ..

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-td6-crankcase-breather-bmw-upgrade.211041/

holidaychicken said:

Whooshing i would say is air, a turbo will normally start to leak oil or whistle loudly I would say.
if you are servicing , make sure you change the crankcase ventilation filter, ideally for the cyclone type.

good info here from Hippo, - cheap to replace and if left will kill the turbo and can lead to a run on - which you really don't want - ask @gold rover ..

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-td6-crankcase-breather-bmw-upgrade.211041/

Click to expand...

Good job I'm not the type to panic, even better that it all happened so fast I didn't have time to panic

It is very fortunate that it stalled or your Gold Rover would have been melted down in to a Gold Puddle..

holidaychicken said:

It is very fortunate that it stalled or your Gold Rover would have been melted down in to a Gold Puddle..

Click to expand...

As would I. The good news is, others can learn from my experience.

holidaychicken said:

Whooshing i would say is air, a turbo will normally start to leak oil or whistle loudly I would say.
if you are servicing , make sure you change the crankcase ventilation filter, ideally for the cyclone type.

good info here from Hippo, - cheap to replace and if left will kill the turbo and can lead to a run on - which you really don't want - ask @gold rover ..

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-td6-crankcase-breather-bmw-upgrade.211041/

Click to expand...

Ok done service and changed the crankcase breather had already bought the older type so will change it in 6 months when I change the oil again.
Got all the intercooler pipes only found 1 split in the top hose, but have upgraded to silicone.
Took for test drive and blew a bloody hose off .
Found out this morning it’s the bottom hose connecting intercooler to turbo pipe.
Messed about with it thinking it’s going to cost me more money, turns out the spring clip hadn’t fully engaged to secure to intercooler.
Job done, found a vacuum off reconnected that.
Oil was black so not sure when the last owner had serviced it.
Now she flys much better now happy (for now till the next thing goes )
Thanks for the help guys!!

Good news and thanks for posting back. I know the exact clip you are referring to !
The filter isn’t a problem being the old type, it’s only because they are not part of the service schedule they run into problems

Can anyone tell me what this hose is at the back of the engine. Is it part of the vacuum system if so where does connect to.
Or is a vent tube for something?

Swipe said:

Can anyone tell me what this hose is at the back of the engine. Is it part of the vacuum system if so where does connect to.
Or is a vent tube for something?

View attachment 160114

Click to expand...

If it were a P38, it would be a breather tube from diffs or gearbox.

It is a breather as you say, diff or transmission

holidaychicken said:

It is a breather as you say, diff or transmission

Click to expand...

Looking at mine shouldn't it have a little filter , a la pic

Have just changed that on the side of the fuel filter.
Thanks for the info on the hose was looking but couldn’t see if it was supposed to be connected to something, think i’ll Just clip it back into one of the holders.