Td5

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Splasher

New Member
Posts
154
Hi all,
Just purchased a Discovery TD5 on a 99 plate(S) and i must say after being fed on a diet of "Disco 200"s i feel very spoilt.
Just a couple of little problems that i need to sort out.
ONE:- Difficult to start in the morning.
TWO:- Central locking does not unlock on the two rear doors and tailgate.
THREE:- Sunroof leaks.
ANY help would be appreciated on these problems please. Especially the central locking problem as its a real pain having to climb over and unlock them.
PLEASE HELP.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
Hi all,
Just purchased a Discovery TD5 on a 99 plate(S) and i must say after being fed on a diet of "Disco 200"s i feel very spoilt.
Just a couple of little problems that i need to sort out.
ONE:- Difficult to start in the morning.
TWO:- Central locking does not unlock on the two rear doors and tailgate.
THREE:- Sunroof leaks.
ANY help would be appreciated on these problems please. Especially the central locking problem as its a real pain having to climb over and unlock them.
PLEASE HELP.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:


1. More details please?

2. Rear door actuators are a common problem but before you spend any money make sure that they haven't just wound themselves tight !! There is an access point where you can get an allen key in and unwind them slightly. Remember it's a LH thread.

3. Loads of causes therefore loads of resolutions. Do a search. The definitive answer is usually to take them out and reseal them with Sikaflex 221 or similar.
 
It's also worth remembering that as standard, one press of the unlock button just unlocks the driver's door. Try pressing it a couple more times - might be a cheap & easy fix.

This function can be disabled with nanocom.
 
Thanks for those suggestions guys. Will try all of these and keep you posted.
I,ve also got a severe leak which i suspect is coming from the sunroof.
I dont know if its leaking around the sunroof or the drainage ducks are blocked but am i right in assuming that the interior lining has to come out??
 
Ref the sunroof, I found this on an old BBS:


Posted 15 July 2007 at 21:04:00 UK time
stan, manchester
the problem with the sunroof is never the rubber seal..the problem is the connection to the roof tray.the tray is metal and the drain pipe is connected to a plastic outlet box which is factory sealed with silicone and pressed into the metal tray.THIS IS THE JOINT WHICH BREAKS DOWN AND LEAKS,(PLASTIC TO METAL)there is a box and connection on each front corner.this is easy to repair and costs no more than £2..what to do..Remove the covers at each side windscreen to A frame(just prise them off,theyre held with 3 spring clips).remove all screws from map holders above your head,including the one behind the blank above mirror.remove winding handle for sunroof.lower away map holder and disconnect light.remove screws from visor fixings.remove screws from visor locator bracket and wiggle and pull till it comes out.(easy)Pull away slightly the door seals on the centre post in front and rear doors and look for 2 little claw like tabs holding internal cover to post,spring these clips round and off post,theyre easy so dont need a lot of effort,now prise off the covers by inserting flat screwdriver behind cover and work the clips out.these are only spring clips into the metal,they hold well but come out easy.pull some seat belt through and just move the cover clear.open covers on high level handle grips and remove 2 4mm bolts from each.if your car has alarm sensor on head ling pull it out,unplug electrical connector and remove.Now remove the finishing trim wher the headlining meets the sunroof,its only pushed on and comes off easy.All thing that hold the lining in are now off and its only taken 45minutes working slowly to ensure all screws are stored and you dont damage anything.Now gentley pull the headlining free working from front to centre post gradually on both sides.its easy so dont worry you dont need to apply lots of force.it falls down with a little help.lower the lining and you will see where the drain pipes connect to the plastic box which in turn connects to the metal tray.You will now see the joint and if its been raining or youve pored water into the tray from the top you will see where it leaks from.To repair this joint dry the area,if you can heat it with a hair drier or carefully with a small flame blow lamp the reair will be easier to complete perfectly.USE BITUMEN BACKED ALUMINIUM FLASHING TAPE(TRADE NAME IN UK IS FLASHBAND and is available from plumbers merchants or B+Q.You will need 4 peices 35mm long x 15mm wide.Make sure as we said earlier that the joint is dry,warm the metal and plastic slightly(this helps the bitumen to adhere well,slightly warm (very little)the bitumen tape and offer it onto the joint making sure it covers onto the plastic and metal,gentley press it all round to ensure a good seal.the joint will accept water immediately and will be good for years.The tape is actually FLASHBAND FLASHING as used in the plumbing trade.The whole job takes no more than 2-3 hours and you wont have water pouring onto yourelf or your passenger anymore.The roof light is not designed to be 100% waterproof and thats why it has drain pipes..the fault is not the seal it is the tray to drain pipe joint.HOPE THIS ANSWERS ALL YOUR QUESTIONS..THIS IS THE FIX.

I'm going to give this a go on mine when I have a moment, the current leak is very minor, but I want to sort this out before the heavens open for the winter here in west yorks.
 
I still have a problem starting my TD5 in the mornings so here's some more details.
I have to turn the engine over two or three times with the accelerator pressed before it will start. Have fitted new glow plugs but the problem is still there first thing in the morning. Starts fine after that first initial start. Need to sort this before the winter sets in. ANY HELP would be appreciated
Thanks.;)
 
I still have a problem starting my TD5 in the mornings so here's some more details.
I have to turn the engine over two or three times with the accelerator pressed before it will start. Have fitted new glow plugs but the problem is still there first thing in the morning. Starts fine after that first initial start. Need to sort this before the winter sets in. ANY HELP would be appreciated
Thanks.;)



As a general rule, you should NEVER touch the accelerator during the start procedure, as this upsets the cold start program in the ECU.

It sounds like you MAY have air in the fuel system, so try this:

Turn the ignition to pos II and leave it there for three minutes to bleed the fuel system,. Whilst this is happening get out the car and go to the rear offside wheel and listen to the fuel pump - is it working and can you hear lots of gurgling and the tone changing? If yes it is bleeding out of of the fuel system.

Now start the engine (without touching the throttle pedal!!) and go for a short drive.

This will not solve the problem entirely but will help with diagnosis.

Good luck

Dave
 
Last edited:
As a general rule, you should NEVER touch the accelerator during the start procedure, as this upsets the cold start program in the ECU.

It sounds like you MAY have air in the fuel system, so try this:

Turn the ignition to pos II and leave it there for three minutes to bleed the fuel system,. Whilst this is happening get out the car and go to the rear offside wheel and listen to the fuel pump - is it working and can you hear lots of gurgling and the tone changing? If yes it is bleeding out of of the fuel system.

Now start the engine (without touching the throttle pedal!!) and go for a short drive.

This will not solve the problem entirely but will help with diagnosis.

Good luck

Dave
Thanks mate. I,ll try this and keep you informed.
Nigel.
 
As a general rule, you should NEVER touch the accelerator during the start procedure, as this upsets the cold start program in the ECU.

It sounds like you MAY have air in the fuel system, so try this:

Turn the ignition to pos II and leave it there for three minutes to bleed the fuel system,. Whilst this is happening get out the car and go to the rear offside wheel and listen to the fuel pump - is it working and can you hear lots of gurgling and the tone changing? If yes it is bleeding out of of the fuel system.

Now start the engine (without touching the throttle pedal!!) and go for a short drive.

This will not solve the problem entirely but will help with diagnosis.

Good luck

Dave
Hi all,
Done this and it still starts but, still not right.
Still have to give it a bit of throttle.
Think it maybe an injector problem so going to fit new injectors.
Will keep you all informed.
Sunroof still leaking. Maybe windscreen seal.
Regards Nigel.
 
hi,
the only way to boss the leak is take the headlining right out, remove both sunroofs,( mine just came out, no seal at all) if roof bars are fitted them too, get yourself some low mod silicone, clear is best clean all areas where fitted, apply silicone and refit, blow all overflow pipes out, then refit everything, wipe your sunroof seal with vasaline and that should solve the problem, a good mornings work, my mate took his into the landrover dealer and they wanted £800.00 for 2 new tray linings,
so a tube of silicone for what £4.00 (a good make though)
thats the only way, or a pair of wellys!!!
 
Hi all,
Done this and it still starts but, still not right.
Still have to give it a bit of throttle.
Think it maybe an injector problem so going to fit new injectors.
Will keep you all informed.

Regards Nigel.


Hi Nigel when you find the cost of new TD5 injectors you might change your mind. !!!!

There are loads of things that could be causing this problem that are MUCH cheaper to fix - my advice? Don't spend your money on injectors until you are CONVINCED, that there is no other possibility.

Air is getting in somewhere and causing this issue so track it down logically.

First thing I would do is to check the fuel pump by connecting a pressure gauge on the incoming side of the FPR and seeing if it is up to spec. Assuming it is then the next obvious source is a failure of the injector seals. A set of LR ones cost about £25 and are straightforward to fit.

Also check the pipework between the tank, the Filter housing and the forward end. Any leaks no matter how tiny will let air in.

Good luck

Dave
 
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