TD5 rough when revved

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lightning

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,275
Location
High Peak
The TD5 engine in my Defender feels rough when l rev it up.
As in vibrations and general noise.

I am not sure if this is normal for the TD5, it performs well and there's no clutch judder or rattles etc. It cruises at 65mph and will easily exceed 80, not that you'd really want to in a 110.

It's done 59,000 miles.

I was thinking it may be the DMF but there's no other issues with the clutch or transmission, and at lower RPM it is fine.
 
I had a new injector harness a couple of months ago.
The loom was full of oil and last time l looked it was still coming out at the red plug.

I took the top off the ECU but no oil has got inside, although the harness is still full of oil. I have cleaned it out of the red plug twice since the harness was replaced....how long before the oil stops coming out?
 
In the absence of any replies, I have ordered another injector harness. I am thinking maybe the garage did not fit the new one properly, or maybe did not change it at all.

I will fit this one myself.
 
I wanted the injector O rings etc replacing but none of the three local Landy specialists will do it, claiming it is "best left alone if no diesel in the oil" because "if you remove injectors they might not seal again and then the head will have to come off"

I also tried the main dealer (Guy Salmon) and their "TD5 specialist" said l could "open a can of worms ending with a new head and a bill for £3,000"
And they basically refused to look at it!
 
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Oh they all said they could remove the injectors, but then said they "might not re-seal"

I could not argue as my knowledge is limited. But l will replace the injector harness again and see if l can stop the oil getting to the ECU, which will be a start.
 
Oh they all said they could remove the injectors, but then said they "might not re-seal"

I could not argue as my knowledge is limited. But l will replace the injector harness again and see if l can stop the oil getting to the ECU, which will be a start.

Sounds like arse covering, if cleaned and genuine washers- not rocket science
 
I'll replace the harness.

If that does not cure it, maybe somebody could recommend a specialist near to Stockport, Cheshire who will replace TD5 injector washers and 0-rings!
 
If the copper washers and O rings are new, and the bolts are torqued up as recommended there's no reason why they shouldn't seal perfectly adequately. Maybe if the seat the copper washer presses against in the cylinder bore or the mating face of the injector were pitted you might have a problem, but if all looks well and you succeed in not trapping any lumps of soot against the washer when re inserting, you should be OK. I cleaned the injector sockets out with a bit of tissue pushed in with the handle of a wooden spoon so as not to scratch anything and they looked nice and clean afterwards.
 
Well.....the Landy has now done 68,000 miles and nothing has changed.
It will wind up to 4,000 rpm if you keep your foot down but there's such a roaring, hammering and general row from the engine that l never go above 3,000 rpm.

However in "normal" driving it's fine, fortunately after remapping there's little need to exceed 2500 rpm.

I was thinking maybe the crankshaft harmonic damper might be defective? But my local specialist seems to think l am wasting my time "it's a Defender"

But the missus's 115,000 mile TD5 90 seems much smoother running.
 
Have you had a look at error codes or cylinder balance values? I find with mine when it sounds rough the cylinder balance values are rather large.

They all have little personalities of their own. A friend of mine has recently bought a TD5 90 which is two years older than mine and everything feels lighter - steering, clutch, gearchange - and the whole thing sounds quieter. It won't go as fast as mine however.
 
How would l do that? When it was remapped they checked it for error codes and said there were none.

What are cylinder balance values and how are they adjusted.
 
How would l do that? When it was remapped they checked it for error codes and said there were none.

What are cylinder balance values and how are they adjusted.

I wish I could adjust them! It's something that shows up on diagnostic equipment when you run the engine. It's to do with the way the ECU reads the signal from the crank position sensor and tries to keep the engine running smoothly by adjusting the fuel charge that each injector delivers. if it's ticking over smoothly you might see smaller numbers like 0, 1, 2, 3 etc. On the other hand when it's sounding rough, for example when I have changed the fuel filter and there's still a smidgen of air in the system, you see some larger values. Especially on the overrun. I can sit and watch the Nanocom for hours.
 
Is it overboosting? Mine was exactly the same and I adjusted my wastegate today and it is a different car.

Mine was great but above 75 it sounded like it was missing but didn't feel like it. A bike pump on the waste gate showed it wasn't shut properly and wasn't opening fully as some chimp had shortened the rod to try and up the boost pressure.

Now its longer it is shut and boosts up earlier but also dumps it's pressure earlier and runs a lot smoother everywhere in the Rev range
 
I went out tonight in the Defender and gave it a good thrashing, the first time since it was remapped.
In fact the first time ever really.
I floored it in third up to 4,000 rpm and it produced a smoke screen (of light coloured smoke) to rival a cooling tower. After that it got less each time l did it, until the smoke stopped.
So l guess it is what, blowing off oil in the intercooler/exhaust etc?
As if the turbo was faulty or it was over fuelling the smoke screen would continue and not go away?
Anyway, after the smoke had cleared it revved like a good 'un and went like stink
So l will have to see how it goes.
It gets driven slowly around town all day every day.
 
Well, l went out in the Land Rover tonight and gave it a good thrashing for the first time ever really.
I floored it through the gears to 4,000 rpm initially it produced a smoke screen (of light couloured smoke) to rival a cooling tower, but it stopped doing it after a few minutes.
Also the engine revs much smoother. But the initial smoke was unacceptable really.
 
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