Td5 headgasket gone again

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Jaykay1987 said:
Yea it shot out everywhere...but it did have alot of brown foam?? i kept it running and left the blead nipple out, let it drop all the water, then reblead. Whilst doing this there was with every other gush, silty brown s**t...now obviously it has had a kseal through it, when it was in a manual td5 (i put engine in an auto)...now i cant remember wether i changed the radiator, or i used the old one, that maybe full of kseal...which is breaking down maybe?? Could this maybe cause a blockage in the rad?
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You said there were no obvious leaks. Have you checked the water pump? I was losing coolant very quickly (header tankful over a normal days driving) and noticed coolant residue underneath on the track rod. I had it idling and couldnt find a leak. I revved it up to about 2000rpm and it gushed out from the pump (weep hole in the casing) pump seals were shot to bits - new pump, sorted.
 
brian47 said:
You'll only get "mayo" if a crack allows water (or steam) to get into the oil. If a crack is allowing the coolant to leak to the air then it won't show like that.
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Ahh I see! So would I be right in saying then that if it was leaking into the air you'd have some form of smoke coming from the exhaust?
 
Beast Of Blorenge said:
Ahh I see! So would I be right in saying then that if it was leaking into the air you'd have some form of smoke coming from the exhaust?
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Like I implied, it would depend on exactly where the water is leaking to. If it's leaking to the air as a water vapour you might see some staining on the outside of the engine. If it's leaking into an inlet port, then you could get some smoke. If the crack is from an oilway into an inlet port then you probably will get smoke. If the crack is from the inside of the cylinder head into a coolant path then you're probably going to get the water getting boiled off and the system over pressurising.
It all depends upon where what is leaking and where it is leaking to.
 
I used pink anti freeze that crystalises where it leaks, but it long expelled that...the radiator was full of absolute brown thick silty water and slow to pump water through with hose, even when i finally got it to run clear it was still slow flowing...So ive just changed the rad, changed my viscus fan aswell, also found i had the pipes mixed up on the heater matrix when refitting the rebuilt engine, dunno wether that may affect it...going to see how it is on a run tomorrow
 
Jaykay1987 said:
I used pink anti freeze that crystalises where it leaks, but it long expelled that...the radiator was full of absolute brown thick silty water and slow to pump water through with hose, even when i finally got it to run clear it was still slow flowing...So ive just changed the rad, changed my viscus fan aswell, also found i had the pipes mixed up on the heater matrix when refitting the rebuilt engine, dunno wether that may affect it...going to see how it is on a run tomorrow
Click to expand...
Don't use "pink" anti-freeze just because it crystallises where it leaks from. You've got an aluminium cylinder head, so you should be using OAT anti-freeze because of it's compatibility. When you're satisfied that you've sealed all the leaks properly and everything is cleaned out, the recommendation is a 50/50 mix, not just for the resistance to freezing but such a mix is more efficient at heat transfer than just plain water.
 
Sorry been mad busy, thanks all for the help...even though i put a new thermostat on it, just before i done the head gasket i changed it again anyway...eureka! It has stopped overheating "ish" i went off roading all round wales all day, and it only over heated twice, when under high revs gettin up a very steep road...now im not losing water from anywhere, but at idle i have cold blowers, soon as i rev and put load on, the hot air comes straight through...as stated earlier i did put a new water pump before i done the head gasket and i have opened bleed nipple and revved, the water shot out...question is could it be a failed water pump, failing at low revs?
Cheers guys
 
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