TD5 Head bolts questions

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Splitty64

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South Bucks
About to do my head gasket, but need to know 2 things please:-
A) what size torx socket do I need for the head bolts
B) what is the correct tightening order for the head bolts, I cant seem to find that bit in the LR manual.

Thanks in advance :)
 
You need an E14 Torx socket. Dont buy cheap ones as they will split.
You also need an angle gauge. Dont guess the various angles.
Make sure the head location dowels are steel and not plastic.

Here is the tightening sequence and stages.
Use new head bolts as they stretch when tightened. Old ones can break off at the point where the thread starts leaving the stub in the cylinder block.
Ensure there is no oil in the bolt holes or the block can crack under hydraulic pressure as you tighten the bolts. Use an air line to blow them out.

Take your time and do it right.
 

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torque it up in two or three stages too, say one at 30 and one at 60 etc , finish with the last turn done as one good one till it clicks the torque limiter on the wrench, , if its done in weedy little turns it gives a poor reading of actual torque :)
 
Nice one guys, thanks. Traditional tightening pattern then, just wanted to be sure. Lets see what surprises await me when it comes apart this weekend. Yep, using genuine parts only and a propper angle gauge.
 
Pleasant surprise, with 118k on the clock, the engine was so clean inside, and the honing marks still on the bores. Head was flat so didn't need skimming. All back together now, fingers crossed my problems don't come back :)
 
Does anyone recommend "Chasing" the bolt holes prior to tightening the head, or is this unnecessary? 11m x 1.5?
 
Thanks! I've never heard of not doing it, but it isn't in the manual, and don't see anyone recommending it. I would also like to confirm the thread size 11m x 1.5 pitch? Anyone?
 
D90Don said:
Thanks! I've never heard of not doing it, but it isn't in the manual, and don't see anyone recommending it. I would also like to confirm the thread size 11m x 1.5 pitch? Anyone?
Click to expand...

If it's just a quick clean up, you could cut some vertical slots in one of the old bolts and use that as an improvised tap. This has the advantage of not reaming too much metal out of the hole, as might happen if you used an actual tap. They're not going to be too full of old Loctite,surely?
 
@Brown, I'll give that a try.. there shouldn't be any loctite on the old head bolts. (which really aren't that old). I used AMC bolts from Turner, and they said just screw them in, as they have the proper amount of oil on them from the factory. I didn't use loctite and Turner didn't recommend it either. I've only heard of using the "blue" loctite on the cam bolts.
Not sure it is recommended not he injector hold-down bolts, but probably couldn't hurt there either.
 
D90Don said:
@Brown, I'll give that a try.. there shouldn't be any loctite on the old head bolts. (which really aren't that old). I used AMC bolts from Turner, and they said just screw them in, as they have the proper amount of oil on them from the factory. I didn't use loctite and Turner didn't recommend it either. I've only heard of using the "blue" loctite on the cam bolts.
Not sure it is recommended not he injector hold-down bolts, but probably couldn't hurt there either.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was just being humorous by mentioning Loctite. I don't think anyone considers it good practice on head bolts. Having said that, sometimes you find previous attempts at repair which look a little "creative", so there's no telling what you'll find. We had a 1200 Triumph engine in a Spitfire which did several thousand miles in our ownership before we found out it had been mended with Araldite. Mind you, Araldite was better in those days.
 
Well, 90ftlbs puts the Td5 head bolt at the 5th stage of tightening. Not sure why the manual stresses 90degress, 180 degres, and another 45 degress. I’m sure there is some logic to it as to tightening in stages. But, 90 ftlbs put it exactly on the 5 stage of tightening 45 degree mark on all 10 bolts. It wouldn’t hurt to do a sanity check at this point. It was Exact and no interpolation in alignment; dead nuts on. 5th stage is exactly 90ftlbs. I’m a bit desperate at this point and I’m gonna get crazy and crank it down to 100ftlbs just for fun of it to see if it can stop a oil - coolant leak. 100 ftlbs puts the bolt marks back to their original positions of the 2nd Stage, It aligns back where you started at 48 ftlbs on the 2nd stage. Fingers crossed.
 
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