Td5 fuel filter / pump and veg oil

Hi peeps.
I did do a search first and didn't find any newer threads on the TD5 running on a veg oil / diesel mix.
I was wondering if the pump itself is happy to have a mix through it and if the fuel filters are micro filters or paper type (I have only had disco for about 5 weeks and been ill so not had time to have a look myself yet).

I run veg oil mixes up to 80% veg 20% diesel in warmer weather down to 30/70 in winter with a fuel additive, the Perkins phaser engines which have Bosch pumps and standard paper element filters, the older Perkins 4.236 don't like a mix more than 50/50 in warm weather and only 20% veg 80% diesel in winter as the CAV pumps get clogged up and get buggered.

So apart from setting up a dual tank system with oil heater I wanted to find out if a mix is ok and what % is best.

Thanks

Ah I just found a very long thread about it, I don't know if he filter or pump questions are answered as I have about 28 pages to go though :¢}

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cooking-oil-in-td5.80487/page-1

I didnt read that whole thread but AFAIK from my own research PD(EUI) engines like the Td5 are not conceived to work with veg oil, in a nutshell EUIs and in tank two stage pumps simply dont "like" it

Ok thanks for your succinct answer, that's the impression Iam gettingt, guess proper bio fuel is ok just not the veg oil, I am not going down the red fuel route, too much too lose even though I have a supply for our boat, it's not worth the risk..

In a nutshell the in tank pump has it's own gauze filter and there's a strainer under the FPR in the head which both get clogged fast on veg oil and to remove those often would not be a joy also you need new gasket each time you remove the FPR, beside that the EUIs are not veg oil friendly either... on biodiesel is not that bad

Thanks for replying, looks like low revs and careful driving to keep fuel.costs down, i still save so much by living on a boat I guess more on road fuel isn't so bad.

Not always low revs. A couple of people I know have done economy driving courses.
With a diesel it can be more economical to let the engine work up to revs that you may think are a bit high then change up.
It can be better than changing up early and letting the engine "labour".
Ive been trying it out for the last few 1000 miles, on my lightly loaded D2 it gets me 2-3 more miles per gallon.

Go on....when are you changing gear to get an extra 2-3mpg. What RPM?

I don't have as much choice in changing gear with an auto as with a manual

Firstly its only over a few 100 miles (sorry miss typed 1000 before) but Ive gone from 30 ave to 32 ave. Mixed driving but more short journeys than usual.
All I do is what my friend who did the course told me, keep the throttle pedal position steady (dont mash it all the way down) let the revs build up in each gear before changing up, rather than changing up early, revs are around 2000-2300.
Also around town dont always drive in a high gear with the engine almost idling, keep in a lower gear but without excessive revs, so 4th or even 3rd, instead of 5th etc.
Its counter intuitive to how you would normally drive, but it seems to be a recognised technique, seems to work for me, but each to his own etc!
Mark

although mixing in veg oil 20 % into the tank may work but with out knowing the correct mixture for the engine you can create more carbon as the diesel is burning differently in the combustion process ....this is why its mixed or should I say watered down with kerosene and every diesel engine will have a different ratio

if your really concerned about clogging filters and sreeens ..filter the veg oil first
I would be concerned about the electric fuel pump pulling more amps as its having to pump a heavier liquid

Mate don't bother running this engine on anything other than diesel... My mate ran his on kerosine a while ago and it's still running nice

markomate2 said:

Firstly its only over a few 100 miles (sorry miss typed 1000 before) but Ive gone from 30 ave to 32 ave. Mixed driving but more short journeys than usual.
All I do is what my friend who did the course told me, keep the throttle pedal position steady (dont mash it all the way down) let the revs build up in each gear before changing up, rather than changing up early, revs are around 2000-2300.
Also around town dont always drive in a high gear with the engine almost idling, keep in a lower gear but without excessive revs, so 4th or even 3rd, instead of 5th etc.
Its counter intuitive to how you would normally drive, but it seems to be a recognised technique, seems to work for me, but each to his own etc!
Mark

Click to expand...

I will try this and see what happens!

markomate2 said:

Firstly its only over a few 100 miles (sorry miss typed 1000 before) but Ive gone from 30 ave to 32 ave. Mixed driving but more short journeys than usual.
All I do is what my friend who did the course told me, keep the throttle pedal position steady (dont mash it all the way down) let the revs build up in each gear before changing up, rather than changing up early, revs are around 2000-2300.
Also around town dont always drive in a high gear with the engine almost idling, keep in a lower gear but without excessive revs, so 4th or even 3rd, instead of 5th etc.
Its counter intuitive to how you would normally drive, but it seems to be a recognised technique, seems to work for me, but each to his own etc!
Mark

Click to expand...

your friend is correct but he should explain how boost works and install a gauge
its common sense not let the engine labour this also drinks fuel and some cases over heats as the engine works harder
changing driving style is common sense ( drive to suit the vehicle )
but the things they don't teach you at these courses is humidity and climate changes

when you purchase a brand new car it has a MPG rating ..when you ask them they tell you it was controlled tests ..then ask was this test with the AC on or OFF ....if they have a quick come back.... ask them what size tyres make and brand as well tyre pressures .roof racks etc
its very easy to manipulate test results
no wind /head wind ETC

just remember when the engine is driven to save fuel the EGR is more than likely to be more active as its in the desired load range

Mine does have a couple of advantages over a "normal" D2
Its a commercial, so its lighter, no back seats.
No A/C, no ACE, no (pointless!) roof rails.
No EGR, well its there but disabled.
I also forgot to say before, that he was also advised not to let the car coast, i.e. when slowing down, change down, and of course dont sit for more than 10-15 seconds idling (I dont really do that, unless its obvious I wont be moving for more than a few minutes)

markomate2 said:

Mine does have a couple of advantages over a "normal" D2
Its a commercial, so its lighter, no back seats.
No A/C, no ACE, no (pointless!) roof rails.
No EGR, well its there but disabled.
I also forgot to say before, that he was also advised not to let the car coast, i.e. when slowing down, change down, and of course dont sit for more than 10-15 seconds idling (I dont really do that, unless its obvious I wont be moving for more than a few minutes)

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and engine uses fuel on start up
so if is telling you to stop start every 15 seconds this also has wear and tear on other components
depending on the driving style but if you have just come off boost it not really a good idea to shut down the engine that poor little turbo

Agree, I only do it after Ive been sitting in traffic for more than 5 or so mins.
I always allow it to cool down for a few mins after motorway driving, then turn off.

markomate2 said:

Agree, I only do it after Ive been sitting in traffic for more than 5 or so mins.
I always allow it to cool down for a few mins after motorway driving, then turn off.

Click to expand...

since im a diesel mechanic by trade I am well aware the engine needs a good shot of fuel on start up (all diesel owners should know this if they reverse there car up to the garage door every night there will be a black spot accumulated on every start up from the tail pipe
so we have to weigh in the fuel used do we constantly switch engine on and off every 10 to 15 seconds like your mate said
new vehicles come out with I STOP do they save fuel though ? or is it just for the tree huggers (emmisions ) NOX
I have test drove a few new vehicles here in Australia ..the MAZDA cx5 was one of the only I tested at the time that air con over ruled ISTOP all other vehicles didn't
here in Australia it can reach up to 50 to 60 + degrees inside a vehicle so switching off the engine means loosing the aircon

there is allot of factors when trying to save fuel ...like using the wrong viscosity of engine oil has impact on engine load... as well as a half dead batt... alternator needs to keep up ....this all = to engine load ...the big engine load killer would be viscous fan lock in more often robs power from the engine means more engine load
these are some of the factors that you don't get taught at a driving school besides using the aircon



I have changed my driving style to suit my engine as well as a back yard LPG over diesel installed
I only use the gas when needed like long inclines or over taking
a 4 KG bottle of LPG will last up to 8 weeks and only 14 dollars to refill... the money I have saved due to hard acceleration over taking etc this would of been diesel being used without sacrificing fuel economy

Well this has changed direction....
Mine in an autobox with TD5 and also my first autobox in over 30 years driving (legally that is) and now I have to learn how to save fuel and drive in a different way, I was reading one writeup somewhere where it suggests coasting to junctions and other different ways to drive compared to driving a manual, I am used to using gears for breaking, when driving my bigger trucks which have manual and very low reving perkins engines i hardly use the brakes at all,once I drove from Andora (Between spain and France) over the mountains, down into france, accross France and then on to Brighton and only used the foot brake three times.
My front brake pads had given up and I had no choice to use handbrake and gears though mainly used gears all the way and only used footbrake when i got to sussex because on an accident on the motorway, sparks were a flying when I did. lol
So I guess now i am auto driving i will change, I still drive with hand on the gearstick even though it is auto, my wife thinks it real funny that I do.