TD5 Fuel Filter Head Replacement - How to?

Anyone got a how to guide on replacing the fuel filter head? It looks straight forward but know LRs it isn't. Anything in particular make this job a pain?

Secondly OEM units seem to run for around £100+ where as Gore Products do a billet ali one for £100 which is not going to rot like the std ones, for the same price why not?

just take note of the pipe and pipe connector positions,its worth fitting a new air bleed valve at the same time which is rear outer

Cheers will do. Dont suppose you know the part number?

wjn500110

Thank you James! Very grateful.

jamesmartin said:

just take note of the pipe and pipe connector positions,its worth fitting a new air bleed valve at the same time which is rear outer

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I put a length of insulating tape on the 2 nearest pipes on either side of the filter head when I did mine so I knew which pipe went where. You aren't going to confuse those pipes as one faces backwards and the other forwards, same as the ones at the rear. It's a very straightforward job to do

Yeah seems straight forward enough. The current head is damp with fuel and the general area is a tad corroded + a little slow to start. First thing is to replace that.

bankz5152 said:

Yeah seems straight forward enough. The current head is damp with fuel and the general area is a tad corroded + a little slow to start. First thing is to replace that.

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The originals become porous and I swear some mice had been nibbling at mine as the face where the seal seats against was half gone. Same symptoms and an easy fix (provided the slow starting is nothing more untoward which I hope it won't be)

bankz5152 said:

Anyone got a how to guide on replacing the fuel filter head? It looks straight forward but know LRs it isn't. Anything in particular make this job a pain?

Secondly OEM units seem to run for around £100+ where as Gore Products do a billet ali one for £100 which is not going to rot like the std ones, for the same price why not?

Click to expand...

It is nice to see some useful bling........I like this. If you get one @bankz5152 let us know if it is a good buy.

Cheers

Exactly what I thought, when an OEM replacement is the same price as bling? Buy bling said before this ones for keeps so future proofing is always on my mind!

Gigglepin gave it a good looking over and concluded the slow start was likely down to air possibly entering the system due to the corroded filter head and/or a misreading MAF sensor.

I mean its not SLOW its just not on the button like my 90, gives cause to investigate....

Well finally got around to replacing the filter head. Pretty easy job , except now its ****ing fuel



I didnt damage the connectors but both of them that side are leaking, cant find replacments online, anyone got a part number?

Only ones I did find where from HK and a 1 month delivery time...

Good news is the slow starting was deffo down to the old head, starts on the button now.

Did you use any PTFE tape?
Thats one hell of a leak though

It's not coming from the filter head/male connector, its coming from the join between the brass male connector and the female push connector. It's as though the internal seal has failed or something!

Are you sure you pushed it on all the way? Have either of the fixing lugs on the connector snapped causing it to not sit straight on the male connector?

Pretty sure I have pushed it all the way on, Im pretty sure I didnt damage the lugs.

I'm nakered now had a long day working on the landy, I'll double check the fitting tomorrow. I removed and refit the one furthest from the chassis and that seems to have stopped leaking.

bankz5152 said:

Pretty sure I have pushed it all the way on, Im pretty sure I didnt damage the lugs.

I'm nakered now had a long day working on the landy, I'll double check the fitting tomorrow. I removed and refit the one furthest from the chassis and that seems to have stopped leaking.

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Did you get this fixed in the end?

Yes! Turns out the brass connector had a hairline crack, replaced it with the old air bleed valve with no air bleed. No longer leaking and run fine. Couple pics on me thread below

bankz5152 said:

Yes! Turns out the brass connector had a hairline crack, replaced it with the old air bleed valve with no air bleed. No longer leaking and run fine. Couple pics on me thread below

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That's one hell of a hairline crack!!!

hahaha that was after I tried to remove it, it split further and cracked in half!

I guessed as much but it must have been quite a long crack for it to break off like that. Glad you got it fixed in the end and at least with that replacement the mice will need good teeth to chew that away