TD5 Engine & clutch replace - advice, please!

Hi there all,

Landie newbie here looking for some advice and guidance from the experts amongst you! I've done some cruising around the forum but can't get all the definitive advice I'm looking for (that I can find anyway!).

I've got a 1999 Defender 110 hardtop TD5 (ex electric board) and I've got to do an engine out job. It's done 136k miles and thrown a bid end in number 2 pot :doh:. To save time and reduce the risks, I've decided to go for a short motor from Turner Engineering (they're only 20 mins away from me, and Richard was very helpful with advice on initial diagnosis which at first I thought was a dropped valve). Also the clutch is starting to slip as well as a grumbling release bearing so time to get it all fixed in one go! Bearing in mind I'll be doing this on my driveway with limited shelter, I would be grateful for some hints and tips.

My questions:
1. Is this a viable one man job, or is it really best with two? I'm an experienced DIY mechanic and have all the necessary tools (I think!). I've done a couple of engine out jobs in the dim and distant past (including a Jag XJ6).

2. I'm probably going to hire (rather than buy) an engine hoist - do I need a 1 tonne version or will a 500kg do the job?

3. From reading it seems it's best to separate & drop the gearbox first with the engine still in situ. Obviously it's heavy so should I do this from inside the cab maybe using the engine hoist through the passenger door?

4. Once I drop the gearbox, will the handbrake be out of action? My drive has a slight slope away so don't want it rolling away into the neighbour's TD5 90! I'll obviously be chocking it anyway.

5. As well as the short motor I'll be replacing clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing, spigot bush, plus all gaskets, head bolts, injector wiring loom, and hoses. I'll check out the flywheel once it's out in the open and replace if necessary. The top end seems to be in good shape so don't plan on doing anything there - or should I?. Is there anything else I should do/replace while I have the engine out? Funds are fairly limited, hence the decision to do the job myself but don't want to cut corners if it risks future failures.

6. I already have the head off. It's obviously now easier to remove the bottom end without the cylinder head (I assume) but should I fit the head to the new short motor before putting back in the vehicle, or doesn't it matter?

7. Any things/tricks/gremlins to look out for when doing the lift/replace of the engine and/or gearbox?

Thanks in advance for your help - it'll be much appreciated!!

Cheers,

Vaughn.

If you're going to fit a short engine then why take out the gearbox?
The TD5 is a heavy awkward lump and the bottom end alone is no lightweight.
Strip the old engine in place in which case a 500kg hoist is plenty enough.
I took my old one out this way in less than 2 hours.
Fit the new block with clutch and flywheel and lift it in.
Fit the top end and you're good to go.
Do it this way and its an easy one man job.
Try to fit the complete engine and your 500kg hoist will struggle because you will need a high lift at full extension and you'll need at least two peeps to wriggle the engine into place unless you are super strong and very lucky.

Cheers Shifty (and slim jim), that's all good news to me! Thought I needed to drop the 'box to get the engine out for some reason - happy not to have to!!

Sorry, I've got a couple more questions:

8. Flywheel bolts - should I replace them, even if I re-use the existing flywheel?

9. What's the best way to prime the oil ways and get the oil pressure up quickly when I first fire it up once it's all back together? On petrol engines I've always spun the engine on the starter with the spark plugs removed until the oil light goes out but it's obviously more difficult with a diesel! I thought about leaving out the glow plugs but #5 pot will still be under compression pressure not having a glow plug of it's own. Just don't want to bugger up the new big end bearings in the first 30secs!

10. Do I need to fit a re-inforced clutch release arm, or is the std TD5 one good and up to the job?

Cheers,

Vaughn.

Just a thought - remove the crankshaft position sensor BEFORE you pull the engine from the gearbox as it is easily damaged and runs very close to the flywheel. Recover any spacing shims and remember to refit them when you put it all back.

Also dont forget to support the gearbox as you pull the engine. It is too heavy to hang on its rear mount alone.

LR recommend new bolts but I've used them again. Just clean out the holes, dont over tighten, and use some thread lock. Its standard practice all over Africa to reuse bolts as they dont have main stealers to hand and could not afford to replace them anyhow. The only ones I personally would not reuse are the head bolts as they are designed to stretch as you angle tighten them and may snap however I've seen them used over and over again with no problems.

Unplug the injector harness connector at the front of the head and turn it on the starter. There's no way the engine will fire. 10 second bursts just to get the oil pressure up and dont overheat the starter. Once your oil light goes out reconnect and fire it up.
You will have to purge the fuel system which can take some time. Use plenty of oil when you put everything together and dont forget to pre fill the oil filter.

The TD5 does not suffer with the dreaded clutch arm failure. When you pull the engine off just clean the pivot pin and ball socket and put it back with a little grease. If the pivot pin is worn then replace it as they are only a few quid. Mine was in perfect order after 112k miles. I'd definitely fit a new thrust bearing while you have it all apart.

Other than that just remember to put the injectors back in the same cylinder position they came from otherwise you will need to recode the ECU. I'd fit new glows while the head is off because its easy to do.

Thanks again for the advice. Sadly, it took me significantly more than 2 hrs but it is my first time extracting a Landie engine!

So, I've finally got the engine out after challenges with rounded off bolt heads. Bought myself the Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Set and Expansion set and I was able to extract the offending bolts no trouble! However, the crank pulley centre bolt proved too tight to extract so I hope Turners will oblige with removing it for me when I take the old short motor in to exchange for a nice shiney new one tomorrow.

Unfortunately, the flywheel is not in good shape (signs of wear and oversized replacement stud fitted damaging the primary flywheel) so will be replacing that too.

Looks like that's my weekend taken care of!

Vaughn.

I have a decent flywheel which may be what you're looking for.
It came off my old TD5 with 112K miles.
PM me if you're interested.

Thanks for the offer Shifty but I've decided to bite the bullet and fork out for a new one. I use it for my business and it needs to be reliable and last a long time after all this work! Given it's getting a 'new' short motor and clutch, I think it's best to complete the trio with a new flywheel too!

Making good progress but now noticed the release arm is missing the nylon insert / bush at the slave cylinder end - aaarrghh!! (I've done a separate post about part numbers if it's available separately?)

Cheers!

OK, well it's all done at last. It needed to have a new release arm as that's a brass insert and it seems it's not available separately.
Anyway, after a couple of minor mishaps after first three start ups, the beast lives again!

First was leaking fuel from the pressure regulator on the side on the head. I'd been given the wrong gasket. Bolt holes and shape identical but internal galleries different.

Second was the power steering pulley bolts dropping out. Think I must have forgotten to tighten them - d'oh!

Third problem was oil blowing out of the oil filter sealing ring. It was a new filter and the old ring had been removed. I did put some oil on it before fitting but maybe not enough so I guess it deformed when I tightened it up. Interesting that I had driven it for over 40 miles and it was on a cold start before it blew. Made a lovely trail of oil down my road!! Fortunately I noticed and killed the engine before any damage was done (I hope!). Replaced the filter (as a precaution), refilled with oil and fired it up. No problems since, touch wood!

Looking at fitting some extra gauges (oil pressure, oil temp) plus hooking up the already fitted TD5 tacho.

Happy to be mobile again, and looking forward to the 500 mile oil change and getting it run in nicely!

Cheers again all.

Vaughn.

Like many jobs on a Landy the though of doing the job is more daunting than the job itself. Glad its sorted.
All I've got to do is sort my PC which has a virus.