Td5 diagnostic plug in needed please?

Hi all,
This isn't urgent but I do need one,
Td5 fires up and then dies after we cleaned fuel tank and pump.
All pipes on correct,
Can't work out why ECU is cutting 12v to the pump and switching it off,
Think it might be the pump??
Has enough pressure to initially fire up and then few seconds later looses pressure as pump can't keep up and ECU cuts it??

Need a diagnostic tool to see what it's doing,

I'm based near Alton, Hampshire,
And please messege me if anybody has one I can borrow!
Many many thanks
Max

I suspect immobiliser fault.

Often (especially on other vehicles) the immobiliser allows a few seconds of running this is due to the period of time that the immobiliser allows for the chip to be recognised.

I have come accros a similar fault on a golf when the chip had been lost from the key.

Ok thanks for that.

If you know anyone with a td5, "Borrow" their pump
Or their ecu and 10as to see if that's at fault.
I'd lend you a pump to try, But you're hardly down the road.
Also got a nanocom, But again hardly down the road.
I know their is a list somewhere of people with diagnostics, Just cant remember where

Bump pleasee

Have a look at the map HERE (both pages) members with diagnostics are marked with a red circle and lightening flash.......with luck there'll be one or two near you and you can PM them.

If it gets urgent PM me and I'll text them

Ahh I didn't realize locky and mad hat man both have plug in doofers,
Will give them a message see what mood they is in

Bump please!!
?

Is it immobilising?

When it cuts out does the red LED flash?

Nope,
Going to run a 12v suply to the pump and see what it does then,
At least then can see if it's an immobiliser/ ECU fault or fuel presure/ bleeding problem.
fires up fine and runs for couple of seconds then pump gets cut off.

MaxyMan said:

Nope,
Going to run a 12v suply to the pump and see what it does then,
At least then can see if it's an immobiliser/ ECU fault or fuel presure/ bleeding problem.
fires up fine and runs for couple of seconds then pump gets cut off.

Click to expand...

ive got a td5 defender hawkeye, if i go to billing at weekend i'll take it with me for you to check yours if yer want

Thanks mate,
Only problem,
I'm up there thurs-Sunday in me 200tdi 90, obviously not in the td5 as it's being rebuilt and not running, in the workshop here, that's 2hrs drive from billing lol

MaxyMan said:

Nope,
Going to run a 12v suply to the pump and see what it does then,
At least then can see if it's an immobiliser/ ECU fault or fuel presure/ bleeding problem.
fires up fine and runs for couple of seconds then pump gets cut off.

Click to expand...

Mine still runs even if the fuel pump relay is removed

I think you have a dodgy connection possibly live feed from the immobiliser to the Red Ecu plug.

Will it run if you keep the ignition held at position 3?

Bromsgrove Defender said:

Mine still runs even if the fuel pump relay is removed

I think you have a dodgy connection possibly live feed from the immobiliser to the Red Ecu plug.

Will it run if you keep the ignition held at position 3?

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It runs with out the relay? That makes no sense but it's a land rover so nothing needs to make sense hahaa,

It fires up and runs fine but then dies after 4 seconds no matter if you have it flat out or on idle,

Don't quite know what your getting at with the key positions?

MaxyMan said:

It runs with out the relay? That makes no sense but it's a land rover so nothing needs to make sense hahaa,

It fires up and runs fine but then dies after 4 seconds no matter if you have it flat out or on idle,

Don't quite know what your getting at with the key positions?

Click to expand...

I figured the engine would just draw it through.... dont get me wrong it runs rough and wont accelerate but it did get me home.

Your ignition switch has four positions off P1 which allows power to cigarette lighter and not sure if much else P2 which lights up dash and allows everything else to work and P3 crank enable which is spring loaded and as soon as released goes back to P2

Hope that clears that up a bit.

Bromsgrove Defender said:

I figured the engine would just draw it through.... dont get me wrong it runs rough and wont accelerate but it did get me home.

Your ignition switch has four positions off P1 which allows power to cigarette lighter and not sure if much else P2 which lights up dash and allows everything else to work and P3 crank enable which is spring loaded and as soon as released goes back to P2

Hope that clears that up a bit.

Click to expand...

Yup I understand that bit lol,
I'm just saying if I held the key on postion 3 after the engine has fired up it's just going to trash the starter??

MaxyMan said:

Yup I understand that bit lol,
I'm just saying if I held the key on postion 3 after the engine has fired up it's just going to trash the starter??

Click to expand...

Nah

They're supposed to be held in until the engine is running properly in cold weather

Wouldn't recommend holding it in for a couple of miles but if you needed to move a couple o hundred yards it would be fine too. Again must stress only a one off get out jail free not as a regular event