TD5 Defender Limp Mode/Power Loss/Engine Warning Light

Checked the wastegate today, lubed it up it is rather stiff but I can move it. If I fit some molegrips and use a bar for a little leverage.

Don't think its that....

Hope you're turning it the right way it shouldn't be that hard - you can move the one I took off the Disco with your fingers if the actuator isn't attached - to be fair you can move it with your fingers if the actuator is attached but you won't do it much unless you're a masochist.

Just out of interest are the vacuum tubes OK ? check them all the way through to the solenoid then from the solenoid to the alternator pump junction.

Was moving it about like in the video I posted before.. It is loosening up slightly, when driving around normally been trying to get the boost up as high as possible which I think may help it open more.

Ill check again tomorrow but all pipes/tubes seem to fine. Is there anything in particular I should be checking for?

Leaks, splits, wear and tear - there is a little solenoid that opens to allow vacuum onto the actuator so it's associated wiring too.

I'm just surprised it is so stiff - which kind of says to me that it isn't getting exercised.

Have you had any 'limp' issues lately ? - engine related not bedroom

hahaha this thread really is full of double entendres!

Nope no limp mode problems recently, happened once back in Jan but that turned out to be bad earth cables. Solved that its been fine.

After watching that video im surprised its so stiff too, its loosening up a little though.. Also recently been driving around 'flooring' it more try to get more boost.

It does drive fine though, no issues I've noticed myself but then again im still pretty new to the ole Defender and the only other car ive really spent time in was an 09 Fiesta!

Ill check all the tubes and others bits again tomorrow..


Out of interest though why would Turbo Wastegate issues cause the engine to go into limp mode?

Thanks for all your help!

Limp mode in wastegate failure terms is caused by excessive boost - beyond 14 psi I think is the number used in the ECU - basically the ECU does it to protect the engine.

the wastegate is used to 'dump' exhaust gas and reduce the turbo speed.

Ahh makes sense. Hmm may be worth picking up a boost gauge for future monitoring....

I monitor absolute pressure and also exhaust gas temperature largely because I've tuned it significantly but also to protect the engine / turbo / manifold.

You should be fine with only boost which can tell you a lot - it's a pain in the hole to fit mind you. I fitted mine to the top front of the inlet manifold just before the first cylinder inlet when I de Egr'd it.

It does require drilling but if you grease some A4 paper and make a 'U' shape you can feed it into the intake to catch any swarf - the grease makes sure it stays on the paper - just be careful when you pull it out not to dislodge what it caught.

Still happening...

Though friend of mine thinks it is a boost leak?

Un-did the two retaining nuts on the actuator today, it does move but it is very stiff does require both hands do to so. Lathered it in more WD40 still no joy, got a couple more mechanically minded friends coming round on the weekend hopefully they will be able to fix it

More update!

The wastegate swivel is not seized and does move, but still requires a fair bit of force to do so. Same with the actuator.

I was reading on another thread 'release your TD5 power' where it was mentioned the wastegate is adjustable, (when looking at my own again I saw this) now which way do I adjust it? I'm hoping this may solve the problem.


However every now and then when you start it and rev the engine it will only rev on the very low end for about 15 - 30 seconds then out of nowhere it revs to full and appears fine. What causes this?

To increase boost you need to shorten the actuator rod. Be careful though as its easy to overdo it. Stock turbo can easily boost to over 30 psi which is not good on a stock TD5. You will defo go to limp mode at a tad over 1bar or about 15psi assuming you map sensor is working.

I see. Just wondering if shortening the rod slightly will prevent it from going into limp mode as it is now. Or should i increase its length?

Trying all avenues before having to buy a new actuator.

bankz5152 said:

I see. Just wondering if shortening the rod slightly will prevent it from going into limp mode as it is now. Or should i increase its length?

Trying all avenues before having to buy a new actuator.

Click to expand...

why not check the live data to see what boost your running at

bankz5152 said:

I see. Just wondering if shortening the rod slightly will prevent it from going into limp mode as it is now. Or should i increase its length?

Trying all avenues before having to buy a new actuator.

Click to expand...

You need to lengthen the actuator rod to reduce boost pressure. Works because the wastegate opens earlier. Shortening the rod keeps the wastegate closed for longer allowing the turbo to build higher pressure.

Cheers.

I would but I've got no diagnostics, no one I know has any, + I'm totally skint at the moment so not about to pay an autosparks for the pleasure.

Loosened off the wastegate and unplugged the MAF. All appears fine...

Plugged the MAF back in seems fine too does sound like its running a little rough but hardly noticable