Td5 coolant leak

Jason2 · Jan 20, 2011

Well luckily I parked the Disco in the Garage last night for once as apposed to outside on the gravel as this morning there was a big puddle of coolant underneath that I wunt have noticed otherwise!!

Seems to be coming from the waterpump area (on the left under oil filter as yeh heads underneath and yeh legs are sticking out front.

Any one shed any light?? joint? Pump?

Cheers in advance

Jason2 · Jan 21, 2011

Anybod ??

ratty · Jan 21, 2011

Jason2 said:
Well luckily I parked the Disco in the Garage last night for once as apposed to outside on the gravel as this morning there was a big puddle of coolant underneath that I wunt have noticed otherwise!!

Seems to be coming from the waterpump area (on the left under oil filter as yeh heads underneath and yeh legs are sticking out front.

Any one shed any light?? joint? Pump?

Cheers in advance

Does it seem to be coming from anywhere pareticular in that region? You will probably find the leak easier with the engine off as the viscous will blow the coolant everywhere.

M6SJG · Jan 21, 2011

I'll have a bash - I suspect there are few responses as it could be from anywhere and ran down the body work to drop where its dropped - you really need to properly support the car and get under to inspect (while the engine is running if necessary) and have a look. However it could be:
damaged hose or hose clip
water pump seal leaking
leaking around core plug

Hope this helps

Jason2 · Jan 21, 2011

ratty said:
Does it seem to be coming from anywhere pareticular in that region? You will probably find the leak easier with the engine off as the viscous will blow the coolant everywhere.

It seems to be coming from the pump !Are they prone to leaking ? new seal? New pump & seal? Bastide to change?

M6SJG · Jan 21, 2011

Coolant pump is an easy removal and replace (rated 2 spanners in the Haynes workshop manual). It does however need the coolant drained, turbo charger removed and (only if there is air conditioning) the drivebelt removed along with the air conditioning compressor. then remove the centrifugal oil filter housing and filter (should refit with new O ring) then you have access to undo the 5 bolts of the coolant pump cover and you can withdraw the water pump and O rings (you will need new ones before refit).

Leaky seal is more likely than a cracked pump - but cracked pumps do happen. certainly worth stripping down and having a look before buying a new pump!

ratty · Jan 21, 2011

M6SJG said:
Coolant pump is an easy removal and replace (rated 2 spanners in the Haynes workshop manual). It does however need the coolant drained, turbo charger removed and (only if there is air conditioning) the drivebelt removed along with the air conditioning compressor. then remove the centrifugal oil filter housing and filter (should refit with new O ring) then you have access to undo the 5 bolts of the coolant pump cover and you can withdraw the water pump and O rings (you will need new ones before refit).

Leaky seal is more likely than a cracked pump - but cracked pumps do happen. certainly worth stripping down and having a look before buying a new pump!

You shouldn't need to remove the turbo itself. You should get away with just removing the turbo feed pipe and centifugue filter housing. I have heard of people doing it without removing anyhing other than the turbo feed pipe but I hear that it is bloody fiddly doing it his way.

Jason2 · Jan 21, 2011

Thanks a lot chaps, try and have a look at it this weekend, not urgent as I've still got mi 110 to run around in

Jason2 · Jan 30, 2011

feckme ! what a bastid to get to !!

Once started and engine only slightly worn the leak stops leading me to think that it's the joint on the back of the pump that expands with the heat! Managed to tighten top bolt that was loose, bottom one seems fairly tight and there's no way that I can get to the one nearest the block with out taking bits off.

Will wait for it to cool down to see if it starts leaking again!

Urban Panzer · Jan 31, 2011

ratty said:
You shouldn't need to remove the turbo itself. You should get away with just removing the turbo feed pipe and centifugue filter housing. I have heard of people doing it without removing anyhing other than the turbo feed pipe but I hear that it is bloody fiddly doing it his way.

yep agreed, its fiddly but can be done and saves disturbing the rotor filter housing / seals etc.

Jason2 · Jan 31, 2011

Urban Panzer said:
yep agreed, its fiddly but can be done and saves disturbing the rotor filter housing / seals etc.

Kin Hell! You's must have hands like an "Action Man" no way I can get my **** shovels any where near!!!

Still leaks but a lot less! What did you use to get to those 8mm bolts on pump???

Wondering whether it would be best to just change the pump and gasket rarther than farting about !!

Jason2 · Feb 19, 2011

Changed the pump today and it's seems to have done the trick (one of the rubber gaskets was knacked).

Right bastid of a job though, took air filter pipe off,fan belt off so that I could gently move air-con compressor a few inches out of the way so that I could get the centrefuge filter jobby off (with sump return pipe, it will lift up and out you just have to wiggle it a bit) all that just to get to the bloody pump bolts!!

There was a lot of wear on the old pump spigot where it goes onto the back of the p.a.s pump! anyone else experienced this?

Td5 coolant leak

Jason2

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ratty

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