Td5. Cold engine stalls unless left to idle for 5 minutes

2006 Td5. 60k on the clock. An annoying problem I hope a guru out there will throw some assistance my way.
Starting the engine from cold, I have to leave it for at least three to five minutes before I can pull away in first. If I don't it simply stalls, even if I increase the revs...it just does not pull. If I leave it say two minutes it will move but there is little or no response from the accelerator. Once warm it's fine.
Park on a hill, steep incline, 45 degs, return after say half an hour on a warm day and again it won't pull away. Park on the flat and its' fine. Park on the flat with a boulder (6 inches high) in front of the wheel and it won't crawl over it unless I engage low range.
The engine was services 3000 miles ago with a new fuel filter. I am about to change the filter again.
Oh how I wish carburretors were more efficient...ok I'm old!!
I learned to drive some 48 years ago in a Landy, now I'm back again or am I going backwards.
Any guidance would be very much appreciated.

1.first of all check for oil contamination in the red plug of the ECM...if oil is present clean well with contact spray, replace the injector loom then clean the plugs from time to time untill it gets dry....or if u have more money replace the engine main harness too ... at least u'll now that the crank position sensors wiring is good too.... which could also make u tricks

2.if no oil at ECM run a purge procedure(push the throttle 5 times and wait untill the flashing MIL stops) then try to start...if it will run fine from the beginning after that first thing to do is replace air bleed valve ( http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1597824-post8.html ) if still no joy think of injector washers and seals

it would help to plug in a tester and see about fault codes....and make sure the EGR(if still present) is not clogged

Thanks for the help. I'll be looking at those points over the week end.

Plodder

Thanks for your input. No oil in ECM. A good start. I had already changed the loom in the rocker box.
After much thought and head scratching, the EGR seemed a positive way forward as it can only be a good move anyhow.
It was still there and pretty much fouled up. Blanked it off and what a difference that made. Mine has a cooler at the front of the engine block, just need to tidy that up with blanking plates or an after part to connect the pipes and then remove the cooling setup.
Only one niggle. Park on a hill and it starts and stops almost immediately. After three attempts it continues running, so I guess the next job will be to replace the air bleed valve.
Very much appreciate your help with this.