Td5 Clutch Slip

Hi all,

I've got a Td5 90 that is putting out around 200bhp, and last year I had the clutch replaced. I only use it for normal use and some off roading, so no huge milages towing etc. However, earlier this year, the clutch started to slip when on the power band when accelerating hard, but only intermitently. I took it back to my specialist in Cornwall, where I was living at the time, and he could find nothing wrong with it. However, more recently it has started to slip a lot more, and I've only noticed it to stop slipping on longer journeys after driving for a while. I did try tapping the clutch pedal when it started to slip on the advice of a mechanic, to see if it was the thrust bearing sticking, but doesn't seem to have an effect.
I have dropped the wading plug (these stay in on Td5s I understand?) to see if anything came out, but nothing. Poked my finger in there and I did feel a muddy type dirt just inside.
So, any of you guys have any ideas why this could be, and how it can be resolved?

Cheers!

Clutch is fooked, innums

jobs ****ed... get a TDi

NRS91 said:

jobs ****ed... get a TDi

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Not enough power

it can put it down though n beat ya to 50

i think that theres a weak spot in ya pressure plate

My guess is contamination, either of the oil or the ****e variety.

i think its the driver

The nut behind the wheel is badly misaligned

i think he needs an automatic... he couldnt break that!

i have had master cylinder rods adjusted too far which can stop fluid returning to reservoir causing release bearing to push against clutch causing slip,can be intermittent fault ,failing that its box out

you might have a point there james... poor adjustment kills things

Well, Langers, NRS91 and myself looked at the clutch adjustment today and the nuts are screwed right up to the end of the thread. The bite point is right at the top of the pedal...
It was really slipping this morning driving into uni slipping at any oportunity. However on the way home again you could put your foot down as much as you want and it didn't slip. I am completely baffled by this?!

nuts om master you mean .they dont want to be right to the end nearer half way to 3/4s

jamesmartin said:

nuts om master you mean .they dont want to be right to the end neare half way to 3/4s

Click to expand...

Yep, the master. And ah, I knew NRS91 and Langers aren't always reliable
Will adjust them then and see what that does.

grinding a slot in a cheap 13mm spanner helps as does wedging pedal down a bit,its definately worth a try

Pete your clueless though...
the pedal has 8-10mm of free play which is correct spec... though instead of having a nut either side it has an extra nut on the cylinder side of the rod... i dont know if this is is correct for TD5s but its against the end of the thread at the cylinder end...

it seems its adjusted correctly to me...

2 nuts cylinder side so nuts can be locked in position,one on other side

must be a Defender thing... my 90 doesnt have two on the cylinder side IIRC

anyway 8-10mm freeplay sounds right to you doesnt it james?

i would say so different cylinders have different tolerances some ive wound right to the end to get as much stroke as possible and there fine others can let clutch ratchette on ,at the end of the day may well need box out but id try adjusting first ,same cylinder as early ones

assuming the hydraulics are ok
id say pressure plate or the fork to be honest
i think its worth giving it a bleeding to be honest