TD5 Clutch not disengaging

Hi guys,

Looking for some advice on my brothers 2000MY (x reg) td5 D2 (approx 180,000 miles).

I don't know the D2 too well (got enough on my plate keeping the P38 running!!) and my brother isn't too mechanically minded!

Basically, he was driving back from Wales last week when it decided it wasn't going to come out of 5th gear. He got it onto the hard shoulder, and managed to limp it off the motorway to get AA'd home. He says he can't get it in or out of gear with the engine running. I've asked if he's tried to drive without the clutch (getting revs to match etc) but he wasn't aware you could do that, so hasn't tried and disco now with mechanics (ish!)

I've not been able to look at it yet as he's in oxfordshire, I'm in sussex, but he's had someone replace both slave and master with no joy.

He had the clutch changed 30,000 miles ago, and the DM flywheel changed for a solid state (?) under the recommendation of his local inde. He's now being told (by same inde) that the solid state flywheel causes more vibrations and its likely that one of the clutch springs has broken, jamming the clutch plate.

Does this sound likely?

Searching has pulled up that these are a bit fun to get bled properly, and I can't say either way whether the guy who has done the slave and master has done this properly (I think its a friend doing him a favour rather than the inde). but nothing on the DM vs solid flywheel.

I'm looking to try to save him some cost (and potentially keep the D2 on as he's looking to get rid now) but difficult when all my kit is in sussex and he can't drive it down to me.

Any thoughts? I'm wondering if its worth me going up there with some basic kit to try re-bleeding. He hasn't really got anywhere for me to drop the box (gravel driveway ) to see if it is a broken spring.

Sorry - not a great deal of info, but I've tried to get out of him as much as poss!

Cheers
Marc

dmf is better for the car than a solid flywheel but even so decent parts should last ,you need to check slave and master are ok and not leaking or sucking in air ,splashing in reservoir can indicate poor master cylinder when pedals pumped as can not been able to remove all air slave can cause latter too ,any noises when pedals pressed or is it just very light now

Thanks James, I was hoping you'd pick this up

I believe its just very light, slightly better with the new slave apparently (which is what's making me think it might be bleed issues), but still can't get it between gears. The guy who has fitted it is saying there's definitely no air in there, but not knowing who this guy is, background, knowledge etc. its difficult for me to comment either way. I'm told that he know's LRs well and maintains his and others (not sure if hes a member on here though!).

Apparently, if its started in gear it will creep slightly with your foot completely down on the clutch, if you let the pedal up it has a very low biting point (bearing in mind this is being explained to me over the phone!!)

No idea what parts were fitted previously, I know he had a bill for £800 for it, but no idea how much of that was labour!

Equally, I don't know if its had new slave and master, or just repair kits (he's paid around £130 parts so far this time round) and again, think its lockheed parts.

I would've thought if it was vibrating enough to break a spring he'd have felt something while driving! He did say that on a longish motorway drive it had been difficult to get out of 5th previously, but no issues going back up through box..

Suspect I may be going to oxford soon!

sounds like air in system

kinda what I'm thinking. Just had a look in Rave, and it doesn't seem to hint that its particularly different to bleed than any others, are there any tips and tricks?

just normal bleeding a clear pipe and shutting nipple on upstroke helps

OK, cheers. Will try to get up there and give it a go....

I changed my clutch master and slave. took an age to bleed.i used a pump to draw it through. though better not brill.in the end it was bled by pumping 5 or 6 times, hold down open and close bleed nipple. couple of ltr went through then wedged pedal down over night couple of times.

OK, went up to see the car yesterday, I've bled 5 litres through and still can't get the darn thing working.

There's a good pedal, no creep if you start it in gear, and bite point seems reasonable, it just won't go in or out of gear with the engine running.

I did manage to drive it and get it up to 3rd getting the rev right, but even that was an bit of a fight.

Any other ideas??

I'm still not 100% convinced there sin't still air in there, as the symptoms point to it, but buggered if I can get it out!!

This would be the problem then.......

:jaw:

do you not need to make sure the pipe into the slave is connected below the bleed valve,
basically so the slave is fitted correct way up

yes you do, but that wasn't the issue. look at the pic

marcinbrighton said:

This would be the problem then.......

:jaw:

Click to expand...

yep didnt last long ,