TD5 Clutch Change

About time for me to change the clutch in my Disco TD5 2000, have a few questions.

1) Valeo or Britpart
2) Change dual mass flywheel as well
3) Engine out or Gearbox out.

Any advice appreciated.

Just had mine done gearbox out valeo all the way Island 4x4 where the cheapest for a 4 part kit including flywheel and as the gear box is out you might as well do the flywheel

Britpart don't make anything, so it could be Valeo, AP or another make of clutch in the box.

Having done my D2 V8 clutch by taking the box out on the ground and on a hoist, I'd say gearbox out if you have a hoist.

DMF worth swapping for a solid flywheel if I was doing it.

Peter

dont forget the spigot bush...as about solid flywheel i tried that once but removed it after 2 weeks and went back to DMF cos i was tired of the judder and noise

sierrafery said:

dont forget the spigot bush...as about solid flywheel i tried that once but removed it after 2 weeks and went back to DMF cos i was tired of the judder and noise

Click to expand...

+1 on both of the above. I didn't do spigot bush on last change. Get a wee noise now for a short period until things heat up. DMF is there for a reason, and in my opinion should remain.

Is it usual for the spigot bearing on a disco 2 to squeal for a few weeks? My clutch was done a few weeks ago and it's still somewhat noisy.

The worst part of the job is bleeding the clutch afterwards IMO.

Due to the stupid pipe routing over the brake servo and back, it really needs to be power bled to get the air out. Unfortunately the 90 degree cap on the reservoir means it's a pain to get a good seal. After much messing around, I ended up fitting the slave upside down so the bleed nipple is at the bottom and reverse bleeding it.

However you do it the trick is to get the front of the Disco high as the slave has a slight downward tilt and traps air.

i bet the slave cylinder was old then... i forgot to say a good practice is to replace the slave cylinder too once it was released from the box cos in time it wears out inside along the piston's travel and as you release it from the pushrod the existing hydraulic pressure moves the piston forward a bit so the seal meats the wear's margin and splits then it becomes a nightmare to bleed... it's not so expensive.... i bled the system with new cylinder with the standard procedure in 3 minutes without any tricks

It was a new cylinder

it means the master is worn then, cos the same theory is valid for the master cylinder tooo just that it's not so sensitive like the slave...or i can't understand what happened there, with new cylinders never took me more than 3 minutes to bleed in the standard way(which means a pipe with funnel filled with fluid attached to the bleed nipple and pump the pedal slowly untill no bubbles are coming up)