TD5 climate control better AC

just adding in on off tap to my heaters inside the cab
reason being
my air con works great have had it tested for pressures etc
my air con is ice cold when engine is still in the warming up process.. when the engine gets to operating temp my air con is not has cold that I would like it to be
since the TD5 has climate control this means coolant temp is constantly running around the heater matrix

adding in a on off tap to the cooling line to stop coolant flow entering the heater matrix this works awesome specially here in Australia
in winter I can open up the tap so heaters work

so do you mean you just restricted the flow through the matrix with a simple tap or you made a bypass setup which connects the the two pipes together before the matrix as to keep the flow in the circuit cos if you just simply fitted a tap this restricts the flow through the fuel cooler too and that's not good at all

thanks for the concern
but all climate controls work the same way hence we can have hot and cold at the same time other wise it can be blanked off as it never there JUST LIKE THE OLD WAY TURN A DIAL ON THE DASH AND THIS STOPPED FLOW 0.

there are 2 cooling hoses leading into the fire wall ..one of them run from the top rad hose (the steal line running across the exhaust manifold .the other runs to the rear of the fuel cooler

the rear of the fuel cooler there is a T piece the bottom hose on the T piece is return to header tank
so in regardless of blanking off one line to the heaters will not affect fuel cooler as it still has its flow

...
the rear of the fuel cooler there is a T piece the bottom hose on the T piece is return to header tank
so in regardless of blanking off one line to the heaters will not affect fuel cooler as it still has its flow

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Yes but there's a thermostat in that T piece...AFAIK that thermostrat is blocking the flow through the cooler and it opens on the action of 82*C hot coolant coming from the matrix otherwise it's closed and the flow which should come from the radiator through the fuel cooler is blocked as to prevent it to work in cold climates, as the flow from the matrix is blocked there's nothing to open that thermostat so there will be no flow through that cooler IMO... for your setup to work you should remove the thermostat from that T piece...if you want to make sure watch the fuel temp with nanocom if you have one and if the FT will be very close to the ECT that's it but that's not "healthy" at all

I will monitor temps but going to have to do old school way I don't have a nano com
it did the orings in the rear of the cooler not long ago I cant recall seeing a thermostat there

It's part of the T piece, and if you'll watch the coolant flow diagram you might agree with me that only the hot flow from the matrix can "activate" it cos that flow should be permannent and untill the thermostat opens there's no flow through the cooler to open it at 82*C.... as you dont live in cold climates better make a setup with a bypass to the matrix not a blocking tap

sierrafery said:

It's part of the T piece, and if you'll watch the coolant flow diagram you might agree with me that only the hot flow from the matrix can "activate" it cos that flow should be permannent and untill the thermostat opens there's no flow through the cooler to open it at 82*C.... as you dont live in cold climates better make a setup with a bypass to the matrix not a blocking tap

View attachment 113004

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i totally agree with you

I monitered my fuel cooler tap closed on idle I used my IR thermometer ..the cooler was still climbing above 90c
I then open the tap to allow heaters to flow ..temps dropped to 79 80 c at one stage the temps dropped below 60 ony for a few seconds ..this is because the coolant inside the heater was cold

tomorrows job is to delete my heater but this time have a bypass hose

thanks for the heads up sierrafery
the fuel cooler I over looked when doing the job

Well done, i'm glad you realised, my cooler started leaking a bit and as i can see it's a crack in the T piece so the orings will not fix it, i ordered a new type cooler http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-cooler-hella-behr-pib000080-p-31232.html and i will addapt it... i've seen cases when the thermostat in the classic cooler has failed, the owner didnt know that, spent loads of money to find out why it's powerless and ruined two pumps by driving it so cos he didnt have access to nanocom as to log a live data which is the only way to find such fault(or measuring the temp like you did)... i simply dont want that kind of cooler anymore cos i have a feeling that many pump failures are caused by it's thermostat just cos it doesnt work as it should when it becomes old then too hot fuel gets into the pump... what do you expect from a spring loaded thermostat, similar construction like those for the cooling systems which are replaced many times in a vehicle's life while i didnt see anybody replaceing the one in the fuel cooler...off course cos it's not replaceable as spare and at the price of that cooler who would replace the whole thing?

IMO you can keep your tap and better try to strip out the thermostat from the T piece cos it's useless, then you'll be on the safe side...i'm sure that you'll feel a bit more power too cos the management has some injection limiters based on FT input... i think even LR realised it's futility and introduced that simple one

thanks again sierrafery

as for the feel of more power you have now raised one of my issues way before I had installed a tap

my engine only runs 20 mins to work 20 mins back with an extra 10 mins coming back due to pick my boy from daycare don't have any performance issues regardless of out side temps and air con on

a few month ago I went 4wding the engine never shut down for at least a 5 hour duration .when I was coming home I felt the engine had a flat spot had it was a bit sluggish trying to get up to speed on the open road
I put this down to heat soak in the engine bay it felt like i was driving in 100KPH head wind

next morning going to work I had I restored full power ?

however the engine ran again a few weeks later for a another 4 hour trip down south and noticed it started to lag a little on the open road
i cant recall how much fuel in my tank on these both issues

otherwise to and from work even a 1 hour drive I don't notice power degrading anything more than a few hours then it seems to struggle

just need to confirm the fuel cooler thermostat this is located in the rear of the fuel cooler plastic T piece
this thermostat in question could be an issue for me on long drives

ok
went ahead and removed the rear T piece on the fuel cooler

there is a big thermostat inside I found mine was full of rust and dirt (even though my header tank is clean ) .the thermostat is easily removed from the T piece .its held in with a snap ring the oring that seals the thermostat from bypassing was swelled and split
there is a sliding pin that moved back and forth in the housing the pin will push against the spring allowing for to open .. I placed the thermostat in hot water from the kettle and seen no movement from the pin ..I clamped the thermostat in a vice and hit it with a blow torch for a few seconds the pin moved and popped out

well done, i'm glad we had this discussion cos at least we know that the ''classic'' fuel cooler is an expensive piece of sh*t, i'm wondering now how many of the fuel pump failers are caused by this... i can strongly recommed to everybody now to strip out that thermostat if it gets to the cooler cos as i said IMO it can't work well on a high mileage vehicle which had few coolant thermostats replaced by that time

sierrafery said:

well done, i'm glad we had this discussion cos at least we know that the ''classic'' fuel cooler is an expensive piece of sh*t, i'm wondering now how many of the fuel pump failers are caused by this... i can strongly recommed to everybody now to strip out that thermostat if it gets to the cooler cos as i said IMO it can't work well on a high mileage vehicle which had few coolant thermostats replaced by that time

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mine has just rolled over the 300000 k
before I removed the thermostat
my fuel filter behind the right rear wheel got very hot at times it was not bearable to touch unsure if this is normal though considering its location ( i am kicking my self as I didn't pickup this issue along time ago when the fuel filter burnt my hands )

I will monitor filter temps and cooler temps over this week end .but I know for a fact my thermostat is no good
as I placed the thermostat in hot water also the rubber seal seats inside the thermostat was split and swelled up this was allowing some or very little water to bypass with out the thermostat opening
I also noticed lots of scale and accumulation of dirt and rusty colour coolant behind the thermostat this indicates there has been a dead spot and very little flow

thanks again bud
your info has been really helpful I would never of known there was a thermostat in there
I will get back to blanking off the heaters some time next week going to make up a by pass tap and do it correctly this time

IMO you dont need a bypass anymore if you removed thermostat cos there will be free flow through the cooler this way, no need for the hot coolant from the matrix to open the stat so you can close it without fear... i'm sure that the filter will be a bit colder now

sierrafery said:

IMO you dont need a bypass anymore if you removed thermostat cos there will be free flow through the cooler this way, no need for the hot coolant from the matrix to open the stat so you can close it without fear... i'm sure that the filter will be a bit colder now

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just come back from a test drive aproxx 50 min run pulled up at home left engine running and measured
fuel cooler 62C this is a big difference to my first test over 20 degree difference
fuel return line at the filter housing was at 58
fuel filter was at 32c
outside air temp is currently 25 but its going to be 32 later today
the car will be going for a longer drive later today approx. a good 2 hour run I will take more measurement's
but up to now the fuel filter and housing is not hot enough to burn hands where is before it did

Nice one, that around 20*C difference is about the normal cooler's expected effec...t i'm sure you'll feel an improvement in the driveability too cos the FT input is an important part of the ECMs addaptive strategy for acceleration, with that artificially high FT input the whole management was mixed up a bit IMO...good for you that you didnt do long journeys too often but if your pump will die sooner than expected at least you know the reason cos it was well "tenderised" by that.

sierrafery said:

Nice one, that around 20*C difference is about the normal cooler's expected effec...t i'm sure you'll feel an improvement in the driveability too cos the FT input is an important part of the ECMs addaptive strategy for acceleration, with that artificially high FT input the whole management was mixed up a bit IMO...good for you that you didnt do long journeys too often but if your pump will die sooner than expected at least you know the reason cos it was well "tenderised" by that.

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update not long after my last post me and the wife decided to go an visit the block and land as where currently building a house
the engine has not been shut down for the past 3 hours even left engine idling while viewing the land and process to keep air con running.. as well on top the 50 min drive I had prior so engine was already up to operating temps before the trip (currently running half a tank of fuel )
got back home just measured with the IR gun
fuel cooler rear 69 c front of the cooler 72c
fuel filter housing return 65c
fuel filter centre 43c
held my hands tightly on the filter and counted well over 1 minute before I could feel my hands start to tingle .. I even did it again with the other hand I was that surprised even when my hand started to tingle is was more of a nice comfort feeling rather than scorching hot feeling
i wish i did a before and after test I'm sure my fuel filter would of seen temps up to 60 C + going by feel

as for power gains i wasn't driving i had more than 1 or few beers but my wife did mention
when we where coming back she was over talking on a well known incline .i asked her are you using the LPG she said no there is no need to (this is a good sign)

as for the air con system did notice a slight difference specially in the foot well normally it use to blow cold at the vents and blow luke warm air on the floor vents now i have cold air coming on the floor vents as well as dash vents
still going to by pass the heaters for the summer i really like my air con ice cold


i do have a fuel pressure gauge installed and my fuel pump seems to push out 60psi when cold... it drops off to 50 psi when hot .... something else i need to monitor in the next coming days to see if fuel pressures drops off so quick

today never noticed any fuel pressure difference cold engine was @60 psi after drive pressure dropped to 55 then close to 50 under full boost the fuel pressure will not drop off below 50 psi
at idle warm engine only a 8 km drive fuel pressure is 55 psi
I have filled my fuel tank to the brim so more fuel to cool
so I can only guess the fuel regulator fades off when up to to a curtain temp

for the length the drive fuel filter etc was stone cold

my main concern is ... sending back HOT fuel to the regulator housing does but also can weaken the fuel regulator

I only ask as most members say there should be a solid KPA or PSI fuel pressure
and does this pressure drop off after a run ?

No, that's whyy the FPR is there, to keep constant 4 bar pressure there.... i suspect that the diaphragm of it was ''tenderised'' by the extra hot fuel...better replace it IMO

today did another 4wd trip normal route then visit the block where building
engine was more responsive than my previse trips coming home ..when I got back home touched the fuel filter I was luke warm ..I measured with IR 32c fuel filter housing was 38 c
not red hot burning hot I use to be
engine held its performance even though heat soak in the engine bay