TD5 Anti-rollbar Droplinks

I need to replace one / both rear ARB drop links. Went to do the job today and cannot undo the lower (axle) fixing. The nut turns but so does the ball joint! The is a torx socket in the end of the ball joint bolt - is that there to fix the bolt in place so the nut can be undone? Its seems odd as I dont know how to do that and still get a big socket on the end.

I guess to I may have to resort to cutting through the bolt but need to order a new nut first. Just wondered if there is an easier way that I have missed before going down that route.

Any good tips?

Lesworth said:

I need to replace one / both rear ARB drop links. Went to do the job today and cannot undo the lower (axle) fixing. The nut turns but so does the ball joint! The is a torx socket in the end of the ball joint bolt - is that there to fix the bolt in place so the nut can be undone? Its seems odd as I don't know how to do that and still get a big socket on the end.

I guess to I may have to resort to cutting through the bolt but need to order a new nut first. Just wondered if there is an easier way that I have missed before going down that route.

Any good tips?

Click to expand...

Allen key or Torx in the end of the ball bolt, ring spanner on the nut. We did this job recently on my mate's TD5 and ended up using the universal LR tool - angle grinder - but had to find some nuts.

Some Ebay suppliers supply the links complete with nuts.

Ah ring spanner. Trust me to have a 17 and 19 but no bl@@dy 18 lol. I'll get a spanner and also the nuts (links were supplied without). Given the state of the nut and thread looks like it'll need grinding.

I just had the same problem.
Fitted QuintonHazel and Unipart droplinks front and read less than 10 miles down the road a rear droplink ball joint pulled apart.
Now fitted a full set from JSF Norwich Delphi parts which they use in the workshop. Will see if I get to the MOT today without a repeat problem.
I did have some problem getting the rear Anti roll bar ends in the same place as the actuator had gone full stroke when the link failed. The system was very stiff in one direction and easy to move the otherway. Made no difference with the engine running or not. Is this right?