TD5 Alternator Problems

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

c18rch

Member
Posts
91
Hi

I posted a thread the other day about starting issues. Well I got the battery and alternator tested and the alternator was only outputting 0.8A.

Antwat I have just replaced the alternator but have just notice the battery warning light is not coming on at all when i start the car. I've checke the bulb and it appears to be a complete unit for all the warning bulbs with LED's in.

Could a fault some where in the warning light circuit be causing the alternator to appear to be not charging, or even prevent the alternator from functioning?

Thanks
 
Could a fault some where in the warning light circuit be causing the alternator to appear to be not charging, or even prevent the alternator from functioning?

Thanks

nope. lite has nothin ta do with preventing tha charge. will only tell ya if a charge is present or not. is the plug at the alternator in properly?
 
Just put an earth on to the alternator connection and the battery light came on. So theres no problems there. Only thing I can think now is the new alternator is faulty. Any suggestions?

With the luck I've been having recently it wouldn't surprise me!!
 
with the new alternator on?

11V, reving the engine makes no difference either. Which is why I asked the orininal question about the warning light circuit. Wondered if that could be affecting the alternators performance.

My problem is if I get a replacement for the faulty alternator and they check the old one there going to want to charge me so I wanted to make sure that it couldn't be anything else.

Cheers
 
Sorry, thats not the voltage across the battery, its from the in car voltmeter. The voltage across the battery is usually about 12.7 depending how flat it is. I've been charging it up so I can start the car to test various things.
 
with tha enjin running ya should have around 13.4 ta 13.7 volts....ya got a dud alternator.....was it a re-build or brand new....maybe just tha regulator thats poked....u still got ya old alternator?
 
Yeh stil got the old one. The new one is brand new.

The voltage off the car voltmeter used to show around 14.1 volts when the engine was running and would increase when you reved the engine slightly to 14.3. It's wired into the radio circuit.
 
if u got a multimeter it will make life easier....disconnect the alternator completely from the vehicle electrics then start yer enjin and see wot output ya getting from the alternator with no interference from yer battery. cant remember, but can u change the voltage regulator on the alternator?
 
Not sure, I'll have a look.

Dark here already though and getting difficult to accomplish anything. May have to be tomorrow now. Unfortunately Don't have a gargage.
 
afraid its a process of elimination. ya know yer charge lite is working. only thing ya changed wuz yer alternator. only way ta tell if its working is ta check the output. if its low (below 13v) it could be a dud voltage regulator. only way ta tell is ta change it for yer old wun and test again. if still not pumpin out tha volts then its tha alternator. i somehow think it a nippon-denso alternator and i not sure if u can change the v-regulator. if its a bosch or a lucas ya should b able to. hope ye get it sorted mate
 
if u got a multimeter it will make life easier....disconnect the alternator completely from the vehicle electrics then start yer enjin and see wot output ya getting from the alternator with no interference from yer battery. cant remember, but can u change the voltage regulator on the alternator?

I suggest you do NOT do that.
Effectively you will be running the alternator without any battery in circuit, which means the alternator has no "reference" battery attached. So the alternator regulator goes ballistic and attempts to raise the alternator output voltage in the hope it will "see" about 13 to 14 volts. It hasn't got a hope because there's no battery connected. The alternator WILL overload internally, and it WILL heat up very quickly, and within a minute or three it WILL burn itself out.

Moral: NEVER run an engine with an alternator unless the battery is properly connected.

Be warned!

CharlesY
 
I suggest you do NOT do that.
Effectively you will be running the alternator without any battery in circuit, which means the alternator has no "reference" battery attached. So the alternator regulator goes ballistic and attempts to raise the alternator output voltage in the hope it will "see" about 13 to 14 volts. It hasn't got a hope because there's no battery connected. The alternator WILL overload internally, and it WILL heat up very quickly, and within a minute or three it WILL burn itself out.

Moral: NEVER run an engine with an alternator unless the battery is properly connected.

Be warned!

CharlesY

ave ilready sed that on another fred and ah couldn't be arsed to say it again
 
sorry....two old geezers are rite :eek: ....ment ta add ta swing tha motor and run for about 5sec...its enuff ta see if ya got output from tha alternator, but wont damage it. done it plenty with no prob. all ya need ta see is anythin above 13v from yer alternator. still smell a rat with yer regulator tho...ive had a brand spanker do a belly up like that b4...lost half me hair teyin ta trace the fault...now i got one half hair left on me 'ead :D
 
ave seen em run fer 5. 10 mins with no problems.. ave also seen em fook up as soon as the injun was started. so i wint even think about doing it. there are other things to check.

take yer multimeter and check fer resistance between the alt body and the battery -ive...yer dint want any.
 
I just replaced my alternator when it had no light on the dash when starting the enjun and it was due to there being no circuit through the alternator. The central spinning core wire had broken free, thus the brushes were open circuit, thus no charging circuit.
 
Back
Top