Disco 2 td5 3 amigos blah blah blah

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smeee

Member
Posts
38
Location
dorset
Ok, this is driving me nuts!!!!
I am spending most weekends pulling this thing apart.

A brief history....
4 new hubs
3 new "front"sensors..yes, i demolished the left one by rubbing on the hub.
Replacement Abs alloy block and shuttle valve.
replaced relay fuse thing. R10.
Had the abs sensors in and out...must be 15-20 times now! ..sometimes i got different readings depending on height of sensor.
The last year the 3 amigos have been going on and off for varying amounts of time.
All seemingly related to the front left with lots of varying code errors.

Now they are staying on all the time and when the reader says the codes have been cleared, they are still there.

Today i thought i would start eliminating things....
I am using an icarsoft LR11 code reader.
It was reading ...2 error codes...Which are consistent-unlike before..

Front left sensor electrical failure.
and
pump relay open circuit.

I jacked the car up and changed the front hubs over(they are both about a year old) and left everything else the same, i didnt want to get mixed results by changing more than one thing at a time.

Right...What next???

I dont really understand what the error codes mean.
What would you do?

Is there a multi-meter test i can do anywhere on the open circuit electrical failure?
I am ok with spanners but dont really understand electrical readings so please explain for a thicko!

Thank you
 
Have the same problem! Mine however is the right sensor?

And mine has had bypass?

Waiting for advise and "Devine Intervention" as I'm sure the bloke upstairs drives Landrovers?? As there here to try us all!!:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Please see attached!
 

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smeee said:
pump relay open circuit.
Click to expand...
Check fusible link FL11 , if that's good the pump is part of te ABS modulator, did you replace the whole block? , anyway you should check the connectors at the SLABS ECU cos it used to suffer from moisture, give them contact spray and if still no joy replace the ECU
 
Badger... I can't find anything on my ebay accounts re the hubs.. Lots of other bits including the sensors though.
I've got a feeling the hubs were from paddocks.

Sierra... I did replace the whole block and checked the shuttle using a you tube guide and multimeter which all seems fine... Changing that block did seem to get rid of some glitchy sometimes there sometimes not codes.. The remaining codes are permanent..
You will see in my code reader photos that these are error codes 3 and 4...,1 and 2 are the same!
My old shuttle had the bypass although I don't think it needed it.
The f11 fused link! What is the test for it and where is it?
 

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smeee said:
The f11 fused link! What is the test for it and where is it?
Click to expand...
it's in the engine bay fusebox, shown as FL11 on the lid, remove it and make continuity test across the legs(unless you see it's blown), for the sensor fault you have to make continuity test from the ECU's plug C0505 across pins 1 - 2 and for the pump's circuit C0506 pin 15 and ground... Do you have RAVE?
 

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Ok..loks like ill be doing some electrical stuff later...doing the learning! No i dont think i have RAVE! what is it?
 
Hi,

When I changed the Right side Hub I got 2! To change the left one too! But just have not had the time to change it yet! So I will this week (as the weather is looking ok down my way) go through all the checks! A swop if needed the right one with the one that came with left one (Hub that is!) As I will also need to change my right caliper holder! At the same time!
 
sierrafery said:
download this http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/rave1.iso (it's a large fie) then make shortcut to the D2 file as to be able to open it fast cos if you want to DIY you'll need the electrical library for connector views
Click to expand...

thank you . i need to do some things this morning but hopefully have a crack at this later.

I am also intending to bleed the brakes again, when i changed the abs block i bled all corners for about 5 pumps after the air went through. they still feel as vague as they ever did, always working better on the second push!
 
If the moduator was changed you need to run a power bleed on it with tester cos the pedal bleed is not enough in this case as nothing energises the pump's circuit nor the electronic IV/OV valves
 
sierrafery said:
If the moduator was changed you need to run a power bleed on it with tester cos the pedal bleed is not enough in this case as nothing energises the pump's circuit nor the electronic IV/OV valves
Click to expand...


So.. By not doing the power bleed, could this bring these errors up?
These are the only errors since changing the block. Is the modulator the big alloy block with the shuttle underneath?
Sorry for the basic questions... Just don't want to get muddled up.
I don't think my code reader will do power bleeds so it looks like a garage visit.
Actually. I have a new light come up on the dashboard for the brakes. The handbrake light is staying on since I changed the block. I didn't think it was related but could it be? I thought the handbrake was probably a manual cable job! It's not picked up by the reader.
 
The modulator can only bring up the pump fault code and not power bleeding it can affect the brake pedal's travel. The ''handbrake light" is there for low fluid level too and also as part of the 3 amigos if the fault is a ''solid" open or closed circuit. Better read the workshop manual rather than googling things
 
sierrafery said:
The modulator can only bring up the pump fault code and not power bleeding it can affect the brake pedal's travel. The ''handbrake light" is there for low fluid level too and also as part of the 3 amigos if the fault is a ''solid" open or closed circuit. Better read the workshop manual rather than googling things
Click to expand...


just remembered something else, this actually prompted me to change the hubs over.

I did a live readout while driving around the block.
the front left hub stayed on 1.7kmh whilst all the overs went up and down with the speed of the car.

Changing the hubs around had no effect and this.

This i presume is a separate issue to needing a power bleed.....or maybe not?
 
smeee said:
just remembered something else, this actually prompted me to change the hubs over.

I did a live readout while driving around the block.
the front left hub stayed on 1.7kmh whilst all the overs went up and down with the speed of the car.

Changing the hubs around had no effect and this.

This i presume is a separate issue to needing a power bleed.....or maybe not?
Click to expand...

Check cabling to the sensor, also make sure that sensor is properly fitted to the hub and not just loose.
 
MJI said:
Check cabling to the sensor, also make sure that sensor is properly fitted to the hub and not just loose.
Click to expand...

After I ruined the first sensor because it was rubbing on the hub I have been extra careful with routing the new one. I was also careful to replace the rubber seal on the sensor before tightening.
 
smeee said:
After I ruined the first sensor because it was rubbing on the hub I have been extra careful with routing the new one. I was also careful to replace the rubber seal on the sensor before tightening.
Click to expand...

Thinking of the main loom, check not broken
 
smeee said:
I did a live readout while driving around the block.
the front left hub stayed on 1.7kmh whilst all the overs went up and down with the speed of the car.
Changing the hubs around had no effect and this.
This i presume is a separate issue to needing a power bleed.....or maybe not?
Click to expand...
Power bleed has nothing to do with hubs or sensors... i think i explained and also i've told you what to check with attachments, the rest is like in your topic's title .... blah blah....
 
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