TD5 2.5 diesel with LOW power.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

discojak

New Member
Posts
25
Location
Cornwall, England
After having the turbo blow on my disco ('99 2.5 Auto) I have now fitted a recon engine. The landy starts fine and drives ok but is very low on power.

Where do I start? Any Ideas?

I have just ordered a fuel filter and air filter. The Pump was replaced a few months ago.

I will change the filters and see how it goes from there but wondered if any of you guys have had similar problems.
frown.gif
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


The saga continues.

L/R main dealer changed the MAF meter with no change in power. They swapped the ECU for another one from another car with no effect. They checked all the sensors out and no faults were reported on the Black box computer. Still not full power. It seems to be in limp home mode, if there is such a thing on L/R.

The lack of power manifests itself when pulling out of a junction the Disco pulls away slowy and changes up through the gears (changes up at around 3-4k revs). Using the sport switch is used the gear change happens around the 4.5k Revs, thus ensuring the sport switch is operational. Driving up a hill the gearbox changed down by using the kickdown and the engine revs increased but the speed did not. It manages to get up the hill at about 30-40Mph but no faster. There is a real lack of acceleration when on the flat.

I have various options:

Turbo boost not at full power? Can i test this?
Engine wiring harness covered in oil causing a fault?
Injectors not working correctly?
Torque converter not working correctly?
Auto gearbox clutches slipping?
ECU req's remapping?


Any other ideas are welcome. Solutions are even more welcome
 
I have just cleaned the sensor on the inlet manifold on my TD5. It was covered in black gunge. The difference is amazing. The car is way more lively and accelerates longer and harder in every gear. I'm chuffed with the result.

It is a simple job and took about 20 minutes.

Cheers

Andy
 
Take off engine cover, look at inlet manifold on drivers side of engine, the sensor is right there. Its held on by 2 8mm bolts. I got some electrical cleaner out of Halfords that dissolved the oily gunge a treat.
 
I've cleaned the plug terminals and the sensor, with gunk degreaser, let it dry and reinstalled it.



It does seem to have made some difference. I'm not sure if it has cured the fault. The Disco only just makes it up local hills (Cornwall) at around 45mph @3.5K revs. I thought it would accelerate up the hill rather than crawl. I am ordering a EGR blanking plate from EBAY to see if that makes any difference.

Many thanks for the quick responses, any other ideas?
 
Hi discojak

Had same problem with my gaylander. :eek:

Blanked off the EGR, which made a small improvement.
Had the injectors checked, they said the nozzles are knacker'ed and replaced them and calibrated the fuel pump with the injectors.

And power is back! :D
 
I've cleaned the plug terminals and the sensor, with gunk degreaser, let it dry and reinstalled it.



It does seem to have made some difference. I'm not sure if it has cured the fault. The Disco only just makes it up local hills (Cornwall) at around 45mph @3.5K revs. I thought it would accelerate up the hill rather than crawl. I am ordering a EGR blanking plate from EBAY to see if that makes any difference.

Many thanks for the quick responses, any other ideas?

I'd say that the EGR blanking plate will give a small improvement. It made the pick up on mine better but was still not really keen to rev between 2-3k. Now the revs pick up no problem.

It sounds like yours has got something else going on, but it is still worth doing the EGR regardless.

I wonder if there are any other engine management sensors that could be failing?

Cheers

Andy
 
guys go back to basics

whip the inlet hose off, turbo to inlet manifold, quick drive around the block, it will tell you if the turbo is supplying air.

Next is fuel filters, change them don’t forget the silly little one down the back.

If that don’t do much , then into the garage check boost pressure, then fuel feed pressure, lastly injector feed line pressure. At full bore

That’s about it the problem will be in there some where, but that’s how you start
 
guys go back to basics

whip the inlet hose off, turbo to inlet manifold, quick drive around the block, it will tell you if the turbo is supplying air.

Next is fuel filters, change them don’t forget the silly little one down the back.

If that don’t do much , then into the garage check boost pressure, then fuel feed pressure, lastly injector feed line pressure. At full bore

That’s about it the problem will be in there some where, but that’s how you start

:confused: Where abouts is the 'silly little one'. I know there is one under the rear wheel arch.
I am presuming that Landrover mail dealer would have checked all the pressures when they had it.
As I am unsure which hose the inlet hose is, could I clarify it. The hose from the air box to the turbo? or the turbo to the intercooler?
 
:confused: Where abouts is the 'silly little one'. I know there is one under the rear wheel arch.?
yeppa thats the one, early ones had a water drain auto, latter deleted and replaced in some countries.
I am presuming that Landrover mail dealer would have checked all the pressures when they had it.?

AH you know what thay say about asuptions aye

As I am unsure which hose the inlet hose is, could I clarify it. The hose from the air box to the turbo? or the turbo to the intercooler?
intercooler to inlet manifold

its also a good time to spary some cleaner down there, clean out the intercooler, and let the turbo blow it though, make sure its all dry with no fumes before pluging it back in LOL
 
With the intercooler to inlet manifold hose removed , what should i feel when driving?

Are we talking about GUNK cleaning fluid or some sort of carb type cleaner?

I presume something terrible hapens if i don't dry it out correctly?

Sorry for all the questions but i don't want to write of my 2.5k replacenment engine.
 
With the intercooler to inlet manifold hose removed , what should i feel when driving?

Are we talking about GUNK cleaning fluid or some sort of carb type cleaner?

I presume something terrible hapens if i don't dry it out correctly?

Sorry for all the questions but i don't want to write of my 2.5k replacenment engine.


ok skip the cleaning bit for now, its not part of your problem,

when you take it for a drive around the block ( no more) you will have no power, the question is is it less power than before or the same?

NB GUNK is a fule, if you suck that in she will reve her head of and theres nothing you can do to stop it.

you havent mentiond smoke so i asume there is none?
 
thanks for the advice with regards to gunk.
You are quite correct about the smoke. there is none, not even on start up or when pulling hard up a hill or heavy acceleration (not that i can do that).
i will try to get the hose off this week end and see how it goes.
hopefully by then i will have the egr valve blank and can fit that at the same time.

Thanks
 
Have taken the intercooler hose off and it does seem to be worse (less power), so I presume that the turbo is working correctly.

I haven't had time to get a new MAP sensor from L/R yet as I am unsure if cleaning the sensor was enough. Is there anyone online from where I can order one?

I have fitted the EGR blank and it has improved the power only slightly.

I have a feeling that there are more underlying problems that I haven't yet discovered. I know what they say about assumptions being the mother of all 'cock ups', but I would have thought that a main dealer would have tried the obvious tests you mentioned (clean).

Fuel filters (x2?) were mentioned I only know of one fuel filter. Are there more than one and where are they?

Any more ideas?
 
Back
Top