TD5 110 Defender starting help

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tidymeup

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44
Hi,

I haven't posted here before i am i pretty stuck and wondered if anyone could maybe give me some ideas or help with my TD5 starting problems.

Basically i bought an Ex MOD TD5 that spent it's days in the falklands and set about tidying it up. it didn't run right when i got it unfortunately but never the less i ended up stripping the cab and blasting the chassis and so on.

but now it's come to making it go i am struggling, the filter head is new, it has a new pump as the old one was rather noisy and i have also done the injector seals and injector wiring loom.

Despite this it won't go reliably, when turning ignition on it sounds as if their is air in the system. If i park the vehicle facing down hill i don't have this problem but if i face it up hill it will start but cut out soon after and not go again.

when you do get it to start it does seem to run very well.

has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas that could help me before i go completely insane.

Many thanks,
Paul.
 
I to thought they didn't run td5's but I have one here complete with all the army's records and reg numbers.

It isn't wet around the regulator so can only assume its not leaking.

I have done loads and loads of searching and just can find an answer.
 
Hi Paul,

I currently own and Ex MOD TD5, it was used by the MOD Police in Scotland by the service history I got with it. I had fueling issues with mine after a while.

Like you, I changed Injector seals (guess you changed the copper washers as well) and the wiring loom. That managed to fix my problems, it was very useful at the time having access to a Nanocom for diagnostics.

From the sounds of it you have changed quite alot of the fueling system already.
 
Yeah I have struggled like mad to fix it. If I am going to change anymore parts I would like to change the right part next time.

I did indeed change the copper washer and the loom but I am pretty sure their was no problems with them anyway.

Just the pipes and regulator to change now. I have been told that the head cracks but it doesn't seem to be making oil.
 
Yeah I have struggled like mad to fix it. If I am going to change anymore parts I would like to change the right part next time.

I did indeed change the copper washer and the loom but I am pretty sure their was no problems with them anyway.

Just the pipes and regulator to change now. I have been told that the head cracks but it doesn't seem to be making oil.

It might be worth checking the air bleed valve in the fuel filter housing annorl.
 
I wasn't sure the bleed valve was something that could be checked? I had thought of adding a one way valve some where. But where I am not sure.

I have no management light on and the solus machine I have access so doesent show any errors with anything.

Cheers Paul.
 
I wasn't sure the bleed valve was something that could be checked? I had thought of adding a one way valve some where. But where I am not sure.

I have no management light on and the solus machine I have access so doesent show any errors with anything.

Cheers Paul.

Only parts with sensors will show a fault hence no faults logged.
 
So had time to check the air bleed valve today and found out that their isn't anything in any of the ports on the filter head.

Bloke who changed the filter head said it doesn't need them. Landranger tell me you can't get all of the parts so its a pain in the arse.

So been to get a second hand one from a breakers tonight. Fingers crossed.
 
So parts fitted and fingers crossed. It's no wonder if wouldn't work though as any of the fuel from the low pressure stage would simply return to the tank via the air bleed pipe.

It wouldn't get enough pressure there let alone any high pressure and the air mixed in also.

I am not sure about the none return valve though as it was in the return from the head is this right?

Thanks.
 
All sorted now cheers for the advice on the air bleed valve.

I had seen it mentioned before but didn't associate it with not starting when on a hill.
 
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