TD5 03 couple of oil leaks + water

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farmerlake

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Location
essex
after sorting my lack of top speed problem, turns out that was a sticky actuator that I have a good seeing too with some mole grips, thanks to info gained from this sight, I have a couple of minor things next on the list.
Just spent big money on a decent alarm and immobiliser now to sort out some minor leaks.

1st. There is a drum shaped object which is attached between the rear prop shaft and transfer box (I'm new and learning part names so could be wrong here) that seems to be leaking a bit of oil. Now am I right in thinking this is the handbrake drum? And what may be the problem here?? I have included a picture.

2nd. There seems to be a little water leak on the right side of the engine. Just in front of the exhaust manifold is a big silver box type thing. On top of this there is a little coolant. Now I think it's coming from the copper pipe just above, that is joined to the manifold, and around to the EGR valve. Is this possible? I did buy a kit to remove the EGR but I seem to have a coolant pipe plumbed into the EGR, joins at a T-piece under the header bottle. now my kit didn't come with anything to remove this T-piece. Do people still just whip the EGR out and replace this t piece with a straight section? If so what diameter pipe do I need?

3rd. Another oil leak, but I think this is the top front of the cam cover, the loom one. This seems to run down the front around the alternator and cover the front and underneath with oil. The oil is a bit high on the dipstick (not done by me) so was wondering if this isn't helping by blowing out excess oil?

Sorry for the long post. I have a good old mechanic that is old school and repairs and renovates rather than just bolting on new parts, and I want to have a rough idea on part names and possible solutions for him. When I call him up.

Thanks experts.
 

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Hi,

Yep that is your handbrake, Maybe the seal on the transfer box. easy enough to open up and check. I am sure someone on here knows the seal number if you want to replace it. Same leak on my 90, I never bothered to fix it as it was so small.

Have you got any pictures of the other leaks?

Cheers
 
No pictures of the other leaks, I will get some tomorrow at lunch.
I thought that was the handbrake. As its leaking I would rather get it sorted, and if its going in I want to get all i can done at the same time. For once Im going to try this thing of actually fixing a car, rather than my usual way of leaving the problems till there are so many I have to scrap it or trade it!!
 
Yes, I reckon it's FTC4939 as well, because I bought some not long ago. You'll have to take the handbrake off, and undo the drive flange nut and take that off too and then the seal can be prised out. There's some pictures on here of people doing their front ones - a Buster's guide and Trewey's one, but aside from the handbrake drum the back one is very similar. If the drive flange is rusty or pitted where the seal contacts it, you might want to consider a new drive flange kit.

Oh, and it's below the oil level in the transfer box, so you might want to schedule it in with a transfer box oil change.
 
Thats not an oil leak its not even damp, I wouldnt even go so far as to call it a weep.
 
Water leak. At closer inspection I think the coolant may be coming from around this part here that is attached to the engine with maybe the thermostat on?
 

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I think this is where the oil is coming from. Seems to run down the pipe where my finger is, then be all over the underneath of the engine. What do you guys think?
 

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If those webbings are getting coolant in, see the hole in the middle? That's the weep hole for the water pump which is fitted behind the power steering pump. The weep hole is there to indicate that the pump seal has possibly failed and allows water up through that hole to tell you. A bit of corrosion around the temp sensor is pretty normal, but I'd be looking at the water pump.
 
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If your EGR is going through a shiny stanless steel heat exchanger bolted to the front of the engine, I think that is what your trying to describe, leave it in place with the coolant pipes attached when you remove the EGR valve, I made up a couple of steel plates just to keep it clean but you don't have to. Just remove the flexible pipe from the manifold and the actual EGR nonsense. Your engine is a 15p if you have one of those heat exchangers BTW.
 
If those webbings are getting coolant in, see the hole in the middle? That's the weep hole for the water pump which is fitted behind the power steering pump. The weep hole is there to indicate that the pump seal has possibly failed and allows water up through that hole to tell you. A bit of corrosion around the temp sensor is pretty normal, but I'd be looking at the water pump.

Never seen a water pump weep hole in the case the pump is mounted into, how would the water get past the failing seal and up to the hole?
 
Thanks for all the replies people, very helpful to me.

The slight coolant leak, I can feel dampness under that top hose, thats why i thought it might be coming from there abouts somewhere, you can see a slight discolouration in the picture where I think it might drip from. That top hose is warm and pretty soft at normal operating temp.

The EGR does have a shiny pipe right on the front of the engine, so I guessing I have a 15P. I have included a picture of the egr kit I bought, it has a metal plate with it, so I will have another look at that this weekend. I was put off because of the coolant running through it and wasnt sure what I was getting myself into.

The oil leak at the front i showed by pointing at, I thought that this was the loom issue. There is quite a bit of oil underneath, is this likey that there would be that much from out of there? Cant see where else it might be coming from though.
 
td5 pump.jpg

See the hole inside the inner seal at the 5-6 oclock position, that lines up with the hole that goes through the webbing in the casting above, the water pump sits behind the power steering pump and is driven by the pump, so effectively faces the rear of the engine, it;s actually a good design, as it's only ever subjected to the same pressure on the bearings, unlike belt driven ones which can pull the bearing downwards, people don't change the OAT coolant enough though and the seals give up, water leaks on to the bearing and destroys them, and because you cant give the pump a wiggle to check the bearings, like you would say on a V8, a weep hole is there to tell you that the seal has gone.

Actually there are a few causes for the pump seal to go, oil cooler can corrode, agin by not changing the fluid, and allow oil into the coolant, swelling the seals.
 
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The 15p doesn't suffer the same issues of oil going up the loom quite as much as the older 10p engine, that looks more like a, the oil pic looks more like a silicone seal gone, and the oil / diesel capillary's up the inside of the insulation until it terminates at the ECU red plug and eventually starts to fill the ECU with oil, not drip on to the engine itself.
 
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See the hole inside the inner seal at the 5-6 oclock position, that lines up with the hole that goes through the webbing in the casting above, the water pump sits behind the power steering pump and is driven by the pump, so effectively faces the rear of the engine, it;s actually a good design, as it's only ever subjected to the same pressure on the bearings, unlike belt driven ones which can pull the bearing downwards, people don't change the OAT coolant enough though and the seals give up, water leaks on to the bearing and destroys them, and because you cant give the pump a wiggle to check the bearings, like you would say on a V8, a weep hole is there to tell you that the seal has gone.

Actually there are a few causes for the pump seal to go, oil cooler can corrode, agin by not changing the fluid, and allow oil into the coolant, swelling the seals.


Well Ive learnt something new today:)
 
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