Freelander 1 td4 vacuum hose solenoid do i need it?

The reason I ask is because when I put her away for the night I noticed the vacuum hose connected to the egr valve was frayed . So I traced it back and found it connected to something square and loose I say something because I could not see with it being under the engine cover . So if that is the case and it is loose can I just remove it ? I will have a better look tomorrow if its not raining . Plus anyone know the internal diameter of it ? in case I have to get some more

That hose goes to the EGR solenoid, if you take it off you will need to block the end on the solenoid/actuator. Which is fine, if your going to blank the egr.
Mike

and if you do away with the hose all together you will be standing on your brake to get it to stop .

You MUST maintain the integrity of the vacuum circuit. If you have done the EGR blanking mod, then the mod has a place for the loose end of pipe to fit. However the pipe needs to be air tight. So if it's damage, replace it to keep the vacuum in the circuit. If vacuum is lost, then brakes and turbo boost control become compromised.
Vac pipe is 4mm ID but often 3mm ID fuel spill pipe can be forced on too.

Thanks Nodge, have just ordered some vacuum hoses (id 4mm) as I thought I would 'suck it and see'(see what I did there) if that may help with some issues we have with our TD4...The hoses I've checked were 'ropey' in my opinion.. If it doesn't work they can always be employed as 'forever' straws for the grandkids.....

+1 Thanks Nodge got some my self this morning plus my 5 star torx bits came today so guess what I will be doing tomorrow

Quick update I changed the hose and this was the thing that was rattling not sure what it is but at least a tie wrap keeps it in place

I did away with the EGR solenoid and the hoses going to it as I have an EGR bypass, I just blanked it off at the Vac reservoir and removed the solenoid. I did it to stop the quacking noise when the engine is turned off.
Can anyone explain why there is no obvious loss of vacuum even though every TD4 I bought had a gaping hole in the hose that goes to the solenoid?

Alibro said:

I did away with the EGR solenoid and the hoses going to it as I have an EGR bypass, I just blanked it off at the Vac reservoir and removed the solenoid. I did it to stop the quacking noise when the engine is turned off.
Can anyone explain why there is no obvious loss of vacuum even though every TD4 I bought had a gaping hole in the hose that goes to the solenoid?

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There is a reduction in vacuum. But the system is designed so the brakes get priority vacuum over the supplementary vacuum devices. The vacuum pump is capable of pulling almost full vacuum at the large servo pipe, with one of the smaller pipes disconnected.

Nodge68 said:

There is a reduction in vacuum. But the system is designed so the brakes get priority vacuum over the supplementary vacuum devices. The vacuum pump is capable of pulling almost full vacuum at the large servo pipe, with one of the smaller pipes disconnected.

Click to expand...

Ahh, now I see.
BTW, top tip if ever working on the vac hoses, make sure they're all connected properly before trying to move the car in your garage.
Don't ask me how I came to this conclusion.

Alibro said:

Ahh, now I see.
BTW, top tip if ever working on the vac hoses, make sure they're all connected properly before trying to move the car in your garage.
Don't ask me how I came to this conclusion.

Click to expand...

I can guess.

How did you come to that conclusion ?sorry I had to get that one in

Contrary to wot you bu@@ers are thinking, NO! I dint crash through the garage door, (that was another time ) I jus had a squeaky bum moment when the car dint want to stop.

What about the turbo solenoid how does that work? I changing mine today but not made any difference. When the blue/black vacuum is connected to turbo it sounds like a vacuum cleaner when off nothing

Hi Lara, belated response but I've only just got round to playing with vac system on my Td4. You really need a vacuum gauge to suss what's happening but here goes:- There's a short braided hose from the tee piece near the vac pump to a vacuum reservoir (small box under the heater hoses). From there a long (black) braided hose leads under the engine cover, down by the IRD vent pipe and onto the end connection on the solenoid. This should show full vac (> 20" suction) at all times if you put a gauge on it with the engine running. No or poor vac probably means defunct hose. Vac decays very slowly when you stop the engine - if it drops sharply the hose is damaged, mine was chewed on top of vac pump, and on a hose clip nearby. Hose is easily changed by removing the cover over the injectors - you shouldn't need to remove anything else. It's clipped in down the back. The middle connection has a short hose to the turbo actuator. I teed a vac gauge into this pipe and it shows 5" on engine start, anything up to 15" (- 0.5 barg) when driving. It moves whenever you move the throttle. I checked the actuator by connecting a clean piece of plastic pipe to it and sucking like crazy, you can see the vertical threaded rod move by, say, 6 - 8 mm. Vacuum must be controlled electrically by Black Box - about 10 seconds after engine stop it drops instantly from 5" to zero. The 3rd solenoid connection goes to the vent filter which should hang down behind the oil filler cap. The bottom connection of the filter must be open to allow it to suck in fresh air.