TD4 Turbo Cutting Out

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I Lied Its on the right hand side :eek: ;)
 

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At least i'm not alone. I have the same dam problem.
I was convinced it was a fuel related problem too but now talk of turbos falling apart has me worried.

My TD4 seems to cut out on hills. Only big hills and only when im going 60+mph or towing. Basicly the throttle has to me flat to the floor for her to go. I'm assuming this is what others are finding:

When it dies if you release the throttle and re apply straight away there is nothing, nothing aty all, no addidional drag, no noise change its as if nothing is there at all. very occasionally the will maintain speed but not pull anymore.

The power doesnt come back at the same RPM either. I usually just keep my foot burried and she comes back after say 5-10 seconds, by this point i have usually dropped a cog as the hills are steep and long around these parts. It doesnt come back any quicker if i leave off the gas either, and when she does come back its gradule, 2-3 seconds.

I thought it was getting starved of fuel, so i changed the rear fuel filter (thats a job in its self) but no change. I didnt realise there was a secondry in the engine bay, i might try changing that one tomorrow.

I do have problems with the tini sponge breather filter on the top of the block, kinda to the rear of the injectors. I assume its an oil breather. This seems to block itsself every 5 months or so. This caused it to misfire when its gunned, but that usually kicks out smoke, and there is a noticible pressure build up, or release should i say as you open the oil filler cap when the engines running. But its not doing any of the above at the moment so i dont thinks its that.

so are we all going with the rear fuel pump? or do i have to fork out for a new injector pump or turbo?

oh, and as mentioned by another user, the fuel tank level isnt a factor of when it happens.

Sorry this is a long post, i just thought i'd put my cards on the table..

dan
 
mondo said:
Dave !
Have you had the fuel pressure sensor out ?
Check the connections on the plug first for crap connections,If it looks ok whip the sensor out and give it a good clean "CAREFULLY" and dunt get any crap in't ole !

But i still think it sounds like a rear fuel pump fault ?

How much fuel you got in yer tank when this happens ?

If yer under 1/4 full, try fillin it up and take it out on a simmilar run to where the fault origionally happens !
Click to expand...


I checked the sensor connections, all look nice clean and secure, but I don't have a suitable socket to get the sensor out, so that will have to wait until the weekend.

Looking at mondo photo, I'm sure the little lever on my connector is towards the back of the engine where mondo's is towards the front. I'll double check in the morning, but I would of thought that sensors would be poke-yoked so they only go on the right way.

Is it possible to connect this the wrong way?

If I try running with this sensor disconnected what damage am I potentially going to do the engine?

Thanks
Dave
 
reet this might or might not elp. . .where the fuel filter lift pump un heater are alltogether under wheel arch. . . .take it all out [its a reet pig] if the fuel filter canister wunt come out [soak in penatration] ok realease the fuel i/p pipe[quick realease jobby] un wif a bowl un loads er wipes git a helper to turn glow plugs on [not starter] . . . .fuel should **** out wiff force, if not or you get like a foam effect, this is a sure sign its fooked, but be aware it can also work fine sometimes but fail at other times [intermitant] the worst kind er fault, this would be a good time to change ya filter as well. . . .mind out for the earth terminal that helps the heater ,as its easy to pull it orft . . . .hope this elps ya all. . . . .:)
 
Darth Viking said:
Looking at mondo photo, I'm sure the little lever on my connector is towards the back of the engine where mondo's is towards the front. I'll double check in the morning, but I would of thought that sensors would be poke-yoked so they only go on the right way.

Is it possible to connect this the wrong way?

Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

I have just engaged the brain and though about this. Serious blond moment. Sorry
 
Universally_Challenged said:
At least i'm not alone. I have the same dam problem.
I was convinced it was a fuel related problem too but now talk of turbos falling apart has me worried.

My TD4 seems to cut out on hills. Only big hills and only when im going 60+mph or towing. Basicly the throttle has to me flat to the floor for her to go. I'm assuming this is what others are finding:

When it dies if you release the throttle and re apply straight away there is nothing, nothing aty all, no addidional drag, no noise change its as if nothing is there at all. very occasionally the will maintain speed but not pull anymore.

The power doesnt come back at the same RPM either. I usually just keep my foot burried and she comes back after say 5-10 seconds, by this point i have usually dropped a cog as the hills are steep and long around these parts. It doesnt come back any quicker if i leave off the gas either, and when she does come back its gradule, 2-3 seconds.

I thought it was getting starved of fuel, so i changed the rear fuel filter (thats a job in its self) but no change. I didnt realise there was a secondry in the engine bay, i might try changing that one tomorrow.

I do have problems with the tini sponge breather filter on the top of the block, kinda to the rear of the injectors. I assume its an oil breather. This seems to block itsself every 5 months or so. This caused it to misfire when its gunned, but that usually kicks out smoke, and there is a noticible pressure build up, or release should i say as you open the oil filler cap when the engines running. But its not doing any of the above at the moment so i dont thinks its that.

so are we all going with the rear fuel pump? or do i have to fork out for a new injector pump or turbo?

oh, and as mentioned by another user, the fuel tank level isnt a factor of when it happens.

Sorry this is a long post, i just thought i'd put my cards on the table..

dan
Click to expand...

Oh, another thing its been doing recently is not starting. once or twice a week you'll have to turn her over for 10-12 seconds then she will splutter into life. plus im sure im missing some touque below 2000rpm. pulling away on hills makes me end up looking like a learner driver as i either stall or have to gun it. :(
 
Hi Universally_Challenged,

If your having problems starting, I doubt it's turbo related.

To start a diesel you need diesel (Fuel pumps, Fuel Filters and injectors) compression (if you had a problem with compression, she'd be running rough) and a bit of pre-heating (glow plugs).

I used to have a Peugeot 406 with an iffy glow plug, in the winter you would need to run the glow plugs 2 -3 time (ie wait for the little light on the dash to go out, turn off, turn on again, wait for light to go out again...) to get her to start, with a cloud of blue smoke, but once she started she ran fine.

I'd have a look at Ming's comments about testing the rear fuel pump (guess what I'm doing this bank holiday).

As for the front fuel pump, not sure how to check, but it is a bit pricey to change on a whim.

Good Luck,

Dave
 
cheers dave.
im sure its the rear pump so i'll be doing the same this weekend.
trouble is if its an intermittent problem if going to be hard to prove.
occasionally she will surge on tickover, sound like she's dying then pickup quickly, all in the matter of a second. its a shame because i have twin pipes and she sounds like a burbeling V8 when ist happening, :(

as for the glow plugs, the light has only ever come on in very cold days. i'm sure its a fuel problem. i know that rear pump is a nightmare to get out. I'm just going to check ebay to see how much a replacment is, i might just change it if its not to pricy.

anyway, let me know how you get on.

dan
 
the rear pump is not that bad to change , it comes with the fuel level detection fitted above the pump , and as far as I'm aware ya cannot buy them separate. . . .if after Doin any fuel related work on a td4 , when startin ,after said work ,its self priming [dont have to bleed it like the series engine] it takes a bit of time on the starter to self prime [as its chasing air out] so dunt panic jist let it do its thing. . . .:)
 
hey ming. mines the later td4 so its just a canisder pump ontop os the inline fuel filter. its not really hard graft but just a pain in the arse. there new one on ebay for £140.

dan
 
Darth Viking said:
Hi All,

I'm hoping that somebody can shed some light on this.

When I go up hill at about 70MPH the turbo on my TD4 feels like it is cutting out. If I slow down so 60 (ish) MPH it comes back on.

But when I'm ragging around the lanes on Exmoor I don't have any problems (Max speed 50 - 60 MPH).

I have tried driving with the MAF disconnected, the egr valve disconnected and I have changed the air, fuel, oil and crank breather filters. Non of it made a difference.

When it cuts out I'm not getting black smoke out the back.

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...
I have just joined this forum to let you know I have experienced the same problem with my 2002 TD4, on hitting 70 mph engine speed would cut down to 60mph and then build up to 70 mph but would not go beyond that speed.
My car was repaired under warranty after 6 weeks in the garage and not knowing the cause of this problem. The mechanics spent alot of time and money replacing parts on the fuel system, pumps,filters,switches, all manner of electrical parts with no luck. Then they replaced the Turbo and bingo problem solved.
Apparently there are variable vanes inside the Turbo which close at around 70 mph to stop it over boosting and pressurising the crankshaft case, and if it does, a safety sensor tells the computer which in turn lowers the pressure from the pump in the fuel tank and the engine slows to a safer speed.
These variable vanes must have been sticking open and I'm told the whole turbo needs replacing if this happens.

I hope this helps.
 
bajjer said:
I have just joined this forum to let you know I have experienced the same problem with my 2002 TD4, on hitting 70 mph engine speed would cut down to 60mph and then build up to 70 mph but would not go beyond that speed.
My car was repaired under warranty after 6 weeks in the garage and not knowing the cause of this problem. The mechanics spent alot of time and money replacing parts on the fuel system, pumps,filters,switches, all manner of electrical parts with no luck. Then they replaced the Turbo and bingo problem solved.
Apparently there are variable vanes inside the Turbo which close at around 70 mph to stop it over boosting and pressurising the crankshaft case, and if it does, a safety sensor tells the computer which in turn lowers the pressure from the pump in the fuel tank and the engine slows to a safer speed.
These variable vanes must have been sticking open and I'm told the whole turbo needs replacing if this happens.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Hmm, not sure.

She seems to run fine in the morning on the way to work (when its a bit cooler) but plays up on the way home.

I'm going to have a poke around the VNT actuator solenoid, vacuum lines and linkage this weekend, weather permitting.

In the mean time I have found a reasonable solution. I avoid the motorway on the way home. Actually at this time of year its just easier to avoid the south part of the M5 anyway.

Dave
 
Well the new fuel pump arrived today, the rear pump outside of the fuel tank.

i replaced it but still have these dam problems. engine hunting on tickover, wond start unless you crank it for 10-15 seconds and either the turbo cutting out or engine being starved of fuel when you have your foot burred over 3,000 rpm.
what now?
 
Hello Chaps, Chapess's and Sheep.

I had a little thoughts about my turbo problem this morning while driving around some country lanes.

I went to slow down for a junction, and found the brake peddle a bit hard to push. The Hippo still stops fine, just the peddle feels a bit odd.

Now both the variable bit to the turbo and the the break servo work off the vacuum pump.

Does anybody have a sensible way of checking the vacuum pump is generating enough suck (no sheep please ;) ) ?

Dave
 
hi daft vador. . . .check the vacuum filter, back er engine lhs side ,looks like er old type fuel filter ,its clear plastic un open to atmosphere ,put yer finger over the blank end wiff motor running un it should suck er tad. . . .er td4 that is :) :) :)
 
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