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Td4 Thermostat Replacement - The Way To Do It!

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Creeeg, Oct 21, 2011.

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  1. longdog

    longdog Active Member

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    Just do as described in this thread, but undo the water pump bolts instead of the 'stat torx bolts. 24mm combination spanner for the belt tensioner.
    You're supposed to remove loads of bits so you can get behind the engine to remove the bolts holding the coolant rail to the block, so you don't strain or crack it.
    I just found it easier to remove/refit the whole assembly when I did a water pump than when I did just a thermostat.
     
  2. Mike81

    Mike81 New Member

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    Hi i have just bought a 2004 td4 and the temp only goes upto about 1/4 i beleave its a stuck stat (open) i have spoke to a local landrover specialist and they will put a new one in for £200. Does this sound about right price for having it done. Thanks mike.
     
  3. tonyt37

    tonyt37 Active Member

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    Save your money and fit a Renault 5 stat in the top hose for less than a tenner.
     
  4. dog-man

    dog-man Active Member

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    I wish my lazy stat would fail totally before I get round to replacing the stat on my 06 TD4 so I can do the Renault 5 stat mod.
     
  5. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    You do not have to wait until the stat fails completely as it may never do, the TD4 stat doe's not fail as such but opens to early, and this can get worse as time moves on, ie opening at80-84 at first then onto 68-71 thus the engine never get up to temp, I have just fitted a gates inline top hose stat which I prefer to the R5 stat as some of the either have a jiggle pin, or leak coolant past anyway.

    My Freelander now get up to temp 12.00 on the dial within five minutes and 4 mile drive at 30 MPH I recently did a tick over test from cold on my drive with the Hawkeye hooked up for live data and it reads as below

    Started engine at 17.18pm
    hooked up the Hawkeye at.
    17.20pm reading 33.8c
    17.25pm = 68.8c and 11.00-oclock on the dial.
    17.30pm = 71.4c and 11.55-oclock on the dial
    17.33pm = 74.5c and 11.59-oclock on the dial
    17.41pm = 81.2c and 12.00-oclock on the dial
    from then dail always at 12.00-oclock on the dial
    17.44pm = 86.7c
    17.45pm = 88.1c
    17.47pm = 88.9c top hose with stat fully hot and stat open

    The above was carried out from a cold start outside temp was 7c
    I will when I have time do a full how to including fitting the inline top hose
     

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  6. dog-man

    dog-man Active Member

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    If my lazy stat does eventually close fully, won't it cause a problem if there is another stat working away?
    Currently my temp will sit at about 5 to 12 but takes about 7 miles to get there. It will only go to 12 o clock if the outside temp is above about 8c or I am travelling at high speed for long periods.
    I have recently flushed and changed the coolant as it was taking about 15 - 17 miles to get decent heat.
    I have not done any long journeys since doing this, but does seem better than it was.
     
  7. dog-man

    dog-man Active Member

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    I look forward to the 'How to'. :D
     
  8. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Yours is working just how mine was until the recent inline gates stat, I have yet to hear of a TD4 R40 M47 diesel stat closing full and staying like that, as they fail by opening to early to completely open.
     
  9. dog-man

    dog-man Active Member

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    I await your 'how 'to' on the inline gates stat then. :)
     
  10. tyrefitter

    tyrefitter Active Member

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    me too, it should be really interesting as mine only goes up to about the 10 to position so will be having a look soon .
     
  11. dog-man

    dog-man Active Member

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    This method will save me about 5 hours work on a cold floor. :)
     
  12. Lowbank

    Lowbank Active Member

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    stat arrived, will be fitting tomorrow.
     
  13. Mew

    Mew New Member

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    Hi all, I'm new to this forum, but thought I would add my two penneth to the thermostat debate.
    I have a 2004 face lift TD4 and it has suffered with poor running, blue smoke on start up which I now class as a feature not a fault and low engine temperature.
    I connected a OBD dongle to the beast and checked all the normal things that may be wrong. All the readings seemed to be reasonable except for the engine coolant temperature which would not go over 60 deg. The engine seemed to run fine when cold but once warm developed a misfire.
    I added an inline stat in the top hose and took it for a run.
    Temperature got to 88 deg monitoring the OBD but then rose to 105 deg, slightly worried I stopped and checked the coolant level, that was normal and no leaks. The cooling fans were running by this time. After a while it settles down to about 90 deg but will rise to 104 ish occasionally.
    It's now been through 3 overnight cooling cycles but still does the same thing. I wonder if I have an air lock? Is there a way to bleed the system that anyone knows, or is this temperature cycle normal? During all this time the temperature gauge rises to mid way and stays there. The misfire I had has almost disappeared as well.
     
  14. redwood

    redwood Active Member

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    Glad your misfire has almost gone, probably the temp is higher because the water has to negotiate two obstacles.
     
  15. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Mew.
    You can use the bleed screw at the rear left of the engine bay, on the right as you stand in front of the car ie passenger side, start the engine from cold let it tick over and slowly come up to temp once the engine as reached about 40c take the coolant tank cap off for a short while maybe 1-2 minutes refit it then use the bleed screw to see if any air is in the system, photo's below let the water run out slowly with out taking the bleed screw completely out of the pipe, hope this helps repeat if need be always keeping an eye on the coolant tank level.
     

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  16. pscan.eu

    pscan.eu Active Member

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    SWMBOs 2002 TD4 is leaking from the thermostat housing area, and I am pretty sure that it is where the metal pipe that goes across the back of the engine goes into the thermostat.
    I already bought a replacement O ring and had an initial look at this over the weekend, but I came to the conclusion that I would have to get the injectors out to get the cam cover / air filter box off so that I can get to the nuts / screws that hold that coolant pipe to the back of the engine.
    This thread would appear to suggest that I can get to the last one through the whole in the inner wing (for the driver side track rod end).
    Is this really so?
    and will it allow me to pull the pipe back enough to fit a new O ring on without moving the thermostat housing?

    The car warms up ok, I just need to fix that leak.
     
  17. Gogadget

    Gogadget Active Member

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    I found it also slightly easier to also take the L shaped turbo hose off from the rear of the engine to get access to the next bolt on the pipe , this gave me more movement to get the flange of the pipe out of the thermostat housing
     
  18. french kev

    french kev New Member

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  19. french kev

    french kev New Member

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    Hi Just followed creew's system and got thermostat off ,defiantly a b-----d of a job excuse my french ,anyway got new on but never came with o ring looked at old one looked ok but did not know how it fits on does it just push onto the pipe ,or does it go to the top over the little lump as when l tried to fit put it all back together it leaked as it had popped up and squashed hence leaked ,ordered one from u/k but they sent me the wrong one too big , so ordered from LR here in La Rochelle ,1,5 hour drive 9 euros lol,
    and don't want it to go wrong ,any advice would be welcome as need on the road
    thank's in advance ,
    french kev;
     
  20. Rocky Ward

    Rocky Ward Active Member

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    Just fitted the £10 Gates thermostat to my 04 TD4, it took 45 minutes in total.

    This included removing the air intake etc, cutting the stainless steel band off the top hose and fitting the thermostat into the hose.

    I followed this guide.

    http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/thermostat-replacement-t2877.html

    What a doddle of a job, goodness knows why anyone would prefer to swap out the original one.

    I went from cold air to quarter way on the gauge in about 5 minutes and half way in about 10 minutes, its not scorching hot but its a major result for £10 and certainly good enough to keep us warm and keep the windows clear.

    I would recommend this fix to anyone.

    Karl.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2016
    Nodge68 likes this.
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