Td4 Thermostat Replacement - The Way To Do It!

I am going to tackle this job soon to replace my lazy but still working thermostat on my 06 TD4.

Can anyone confirm if I have to get a replacement thermostat housing cover? (Does it get damaged when removing? What about seals?
What is the part number for the correct thermostat for my FL?

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/thermostat-pel100570lg-p-3760.html
You will also need the o ring it mentions.

I have sorted out a spare top hose with the inline stat fitted, I have yet to fit it to the FL being held back at the moment with the dreaded manflu had it for at least 4 weeks now.

I wish I had seen this before I replaced my thermostat, it was the worst job to do in the world, took me two days and over 16 hours. One torx bolt took most of the time.
I don't think it is just for men this flu thing. I have had a severe cough and cold for 6 weeks now! I only managed 1 day of tinkering in that time, and It set me back a week or two.
-Hazel

Thermostat is now on order.
I am struggling to source an E8 Torx ratchet spanner without spending too much. Can anyone recommend a source in the UK?

I'm at the same stage best I could find was £16.54 + £4.00 delivery still looking for better

To those that have already changed their thermostat, does it definitely require an E8 Torx ratchet spanner or can a Torx socket work as easily?

I managed to fit the inline stat and after doing so the FL 1 now get up to temp in about 5-7 minutes maybe after about 2.5 - 3 miles
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After 4 miles traveling at 30mph engine throwing out full heat inside the car
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Tested on the Hawkeye.
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My stat is lazy not failed. It takes ages to get to the 5 to 12 position.
It will only reach 12. o clock when the outside temp is around 8c or more and then only after about 15 miles.

I assume if I did the inline stat mod, I would have problems because my existing stat is still operating although sluggishly.

I am waiting for delivery of an E8 ratchet spanner before I can attempt to replace the stat normally.

dog-man said:

To those that have already changed their thermostat, does it definitely require an E8 Torx ratchet spanner or can a Torx socket work as easily?

Click to expand...

You will need both, and a set of plasters for you knuckles (or someone with slim hands - mine a pretty tiny, but I found it a challenge). I got my T8s from Machine Mart, and they both needed to be 'adjusted' with an angle grinder to get in the tight space that is left when you jack the engine up with the mount removed 1/4" UJ and various extensions etc were used over the course of my 16 hour journey. Capscrews went back in really easily with a ball-end hex wrench, reassembly and testing all under 1 hour, maybe I should have just smashed the old one off and saved myself a couple of days of my life?
I suspect that removing the engine would be a quicker way to replace the original thermostat, the BMW lump was never designed to go in that teeny-tiny hole, it is amazing it even fits at all!
The OEM thermostat I have also takes about 6-10 minutes of driving to get to 12 o'clock.

I felt a quick update today was needed, with the weather being 5 Celcius. I thought I would compare the warm-up time of my 2004 freelander with new OEM thermostat installed against Arctic2's observations. I was driving along about 30 to 40 mph. The temperature gauge started to move after 3 minutes of driving, and finally got to the 12 o'clock position after 17 minutes. The FBH did not kick in, so this must be a worst-case scenario on warm-up time ?

Got my new stat and a set of torx ratchet spanners. got them online but they are now on ebay a couple of quid cheaper. about 33 quid, i paid 37 which seems ok to me

You could take the whole water pump/thermostat assembly off, allan headed bolts. Pump to block gasket about a fiver. I found it easier when I changed a water pump than when I changed just a thermostat in situ.

I'm going with longdog on this ... the thermostat seems like a total *&#@, but the waterpump seems like a much easier target. And since they've both done 100,000+miles, the wp is prolly feeling tired.

As someone who is waiting for warmer weather before doing this job, is it really easier to remove the water pump?
If it is, why have several taken the other avenue and just removed the stat housing?
I must dig out my Haynes manual for a read.

dog-man said:

As someone who is waiting for warmer weather before doing this job, is it really easier to remove the water pump?
If it is, why have several taken the other avenue and just removed the stat housing?

Click to expand...

One reason might be having to doof about with the belts.
I'll have to get "a round to it" on this job soon, but when I do I'm going for the water pump.

Ah, the belts.

Need to do some serious reading of my Haynes to decide which way to go.

dog-man said:

Ah, the belts.

Click to expand...

Another is that from the factory the water pump gasket is part of the timing cover gasket, so you have to trim it off. Then there's the possibility of snapping one of those bolts in the block...

I'll have to check what Alldata says about this job ... Land Rover's TOPIx wants you to remove most of the crap off the top of the engine, which seems horribly OTT. I doubt the flat-rate techs do it that way.

I will be leaving the water pump in situ then.