Td4 tapping noise

Hi all my freelander is at 157,000 miles brought 1000 miles ago since then its had alot of work including new vacuum hoses as there was alot of holes and the infamous intercooler induction hose.

My truck is now getting more and more tappy and its got me worried it has oil and doesn't seem to use any however can sometimes puff some smoke with a hint of blue on startup and run a little lumpy at Idle but mostly fine.

Any ideas what this might be I've got a video for people to look at here

Please let me know what you think.

Crank shaft pulley look for any metal dust etc

Thanks I will have a look tommorow, I don't know if you could notice in the video but when I moved to the side of the car you could hear another ticking noise that sounded more like what the engine sounded like before which had me confused if this is the case is it common, difficult and expensive to fix.

Update: it's dead I couldn't see anything obvious with the pulley that's not to say it isn't the pulley, over last two days it's wanted to start less and less today on way home I was scared to let it Idle smokes when it did start and in the attempt to take it to the garage today we'll it died while I was half way pulling onto a roundabout (much to every other 20-dozen cars dislike) I eventually had a break in traffic to roll it backwards off the roundabout and use starter motor to get me the momentum to roll forwards off the main road before having to abandon it in my estate.

I'm deeply troubled by this now just wish I knew what was causing it I've had a dual mass and clutch done about a month ago and alot of other work on this car friends mechanic said could be an Injector but I'm sure it wouldn't be that noisy worried engines toast.

I will keep everyone updated as I progress even if it has died il let you know post mortom, cheers Chris.

Ouch, that escalated! It did sound poorly though.

I can't offer any advice, but good luck with it.

Solved! No idea exactly the cause but engine has been replaced with a 80,000 mile td4 the old one was seizing around tdc when we got it out and turned by breaker bar, I've however now got another dilemma my old engine had a maf inline with the air inlet but the new one doesn't it works may have a vacuum link and not getting much boost but I'm sure that's a leak issue pipes are not amazing.

Will the lack of maf cause issues, can I reconnect it? Why is it not on this engine the codes are the same.

Can you provide pics of both please?

CShand said:

Solved! No idea exactly the cause but engine has been replaced with a 80,000 mile td4 the old one was seizing around tdc when we got it out and turned by breaker bar, I've however now got another dilemma my old engine had a maf inline with the air inlet but the new one doesn't it works may have a vacuum link and not getting much boost but I'm sure that's a leak issue pipes are not amazing.

Will the lack of maf cause issues, can I reconnect it? Why is it not on this engine the codes are the same.

Click to expand...

Your Sport will have a boosted air temp sensor(just before the plastic intake pipe). Your replacement engine came from a pre-2003 vehicle, which doesn't use that sensor. You need to fit the sensor from the old engine, it's part of the boost pipe assembly anyway. The engine won't perform quite right without the sensor fitted, but not much.

That sounds like a fun job of modifying the engine loom or replacing it haha.

CShand said:

That sounds like a fun job of modifying the engine loom or replacing it haha.

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The engine harness is part of the car. I'm presuming that the harness stayed with the car. All you should need is take the sensor off the old engine boost pipe and fit to to the replacement engine. I'm surprised the boost pipes were removed and swapped, as there's no need to touch any of those at all, other than add a bit of room.

The connector and wiring for the boost air temperature sensor is part of the engine loom and is a bit of a pain to change in situ Without removing a few parts off the engine.

You could go direct to the ecu from the sensor if you’ve got a wiring diagram to follow

I will probably go direct if I can and no the harness comes in part with the engine it makes swapping them easier I.e disconnect remove engine new one in reconnect in theory anyway.

CShand said:

no the harness comes in part with the engine i

Click to expand...

I'd forgotten that the boosted air sensor is part of the engine harness.

I'd strip out the correct harness from your old engine, or find the correct replacement if you've no longer got it. The harness is a 30 minute job to swap out, so can't see any real advantage of running a single sensor overlay myself.

Well once I have old engine stripped and fixed the vacuum leak on my turbo actuator (no boost at low revs) I will perform said work one way or another I'm also wondering if any other sensor is slightly different.