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TD4 Smokin' Issue (solved or not)

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Bootes, Nov 5, 2019.

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  1. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Hi Guys,
    OK, so I've got a 2006 Freelander 2.0 TD4 with approx 86,000 miles. Called "Bender", so everyone behind me can "Bite My Shiny Metal Ars* (wheel cover)" .
    And I'm stumped, I got the old TD4 smokin' problem. I am really hoping some one can help.

    First off, way back at the beginning of the year I was on the 303 heading to Winchester, when I had a lack of power and bucket loads of Black smoke. I limped back home to Trowbridge (Wilts). After hours of looking I found it, a hole in the Intercooler Outlet Hose where it had been rubbing on the Air Intake Ducting mounting screw, after replacing said hose all was fine for a few days. I even strapped a piece of very, very thick leather around the hose until I can make up some kind of bracket to stop the rubbing. Then I got the smokes on start-up, same as most everyone else, white, smells of BBQ that stopped after a couple of mins. The tick over was still a bit lumpy though even after the smoke had gone. I replaced the Crankcase Breather Filter with a BMW one, it made no difference so I took it to my local garage. Well after handing over £300 they told me they couldn't find any problem and that a blat down the road cleared it. About a week later it had the Smokes REAL bad, thick clouds of white-grey smoke all the time, still smells of BBQ and has lumpy tick over and if I take her up to about 2000 revs it feels like it's choking for air.
    I have done a leak back and the results are
    1 (oil filler end) 5.75
    2 7.50
    3 6.50
    4 8.50
    I have had 1 2 & 3 injectors out, stripped and cleaned the nozzles, no matter what I tried I could not get 4 out, so I put it all back together with the plan of running it to get everything hot, then trying number 4 again. I've pulled the injector plugs one by one and each goes a bit lumpy as expected.
    Now I am really at a loss, it's now November the weather is shyte and here's the sorry for myself bit, being disabled I don't have much income. So I really can't afford to start replacing bits that might not be at fault.
    After all the threads on LandyZone for Smokin' Freelanders has anyone actually found a cure. I've read just about every thread but a lot stop dead before an answer is found.
    I'm starting to think I'll have to sell my EWI5000 to take it to my local Landy (WJ Joyce) garage.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. websun

    websun Active Member

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    Did you have a look also on the small 4mm hoses? Those also make a mess sometimes and hard to spot especially on egr side.
    Do you have egr blank fitted?
    Also, did you check the turbo solenoid and last but not least the MAF.
    To get injector 4 out sprinkle some wd40 there a day before. Next day it will come out easily, especially with a long leverage but make sure you support it on a screw or something.
     
  3. hd3

    hd3 Well-Known Member

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    also .. you might want to check the fuel-rail-pressure sensor plug-pins for possible corrosion,
    dirt, water ingress ..
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     
  4. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Thanx for the quick reply Websun, if it's not peeing down tomorrow I check over the small vac pipes. No not got a EGR blank fitted, which reminds me I've got to get a new jubilee clamp for that. I thought that there wasn't much could be done to the MAF and that it's pretty sensitive to touch etc. Can I clean it with Brake cleaner spray?.I doubt I'll be able to get underneath to get at the turbo. Not as bendy as I used to be.
     
  5. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Thanx for the reply, now that's a job I will be able to reach. I read somewhere that this part of the loom can fail, Land Rover Freelander 1 TD4 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Loom Cable YMQ503320 OE (FleeBay) is this right? Jeez £72
     
  6. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Black smoke is lack of oxygen for the fuel available. So this is a leaking boost pipe, boost pipe clips or the EGR valve sticking open, allowing exhaust to contaminate the incoming fresh air.
     
  7. hd3

    hd3 Well-Known Member

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    unless the wiring within the loom is at fault .. you don't necessarily need a new one ..
    just clean the pins in the plug and bung in a load of 'contralube-770' to keep water ingress out ..
    ( https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/827/category/154 )
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    that sensor only utilises small voltage ..
    a small upset can cause a number of weird symptoms ..
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ( i use that on all engine sensor plugs and the injector plugs ..
    ( and computer connections at home ..
    ( so far no problems
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
     
  8. hd3

    hd3 Well-Known Member

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    i'm thinking unburnt fuel ..
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
     
  9. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Yeah, that was my thought too, 'cos of the smell. I'll have a good look tomorrow, I've got a can of contact cleaner in the shed. Could even buzz the circuit for faults.
     
  10. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Thanks Nodge, Yeah this turned out to be the Intercooler hose rubbing on the Air Ducting mounting screw. Got that sorted now, I now carry some Gorilla tape just in case.
     
  11. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    sometimes it can be the glow plugs that make it smoke just after ignition, unplug the MAF and see if it goes away,
     
  12. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Hi Guys,
    OK, so I've got the top (Plastic) stripped down again, got the MAF off and all connectors are clean, All the small bore pipes look good, unfortunately I can't get under to look at the Turbo pipes. I did put a meter on the glow plugs in situ and number 3 reads 5.55k ohms while 1,2&4 are overload no ohms. I presume that means 3 is shot?
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    A working glow plug has a resistance of 0.8 to 1.1 Ohm. Anything higher than that would signify a faulty plug.
     
  14. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Thanks Nodge,
    I've just ordered 4 new ones.
     
  15. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Don't force them if they don't come out. They're know to seize in, and snap when trying to remove them.

    If they feel stiff on a short 1/4" ratchet, then start the engine and run up to temperature. This can sometimes get them to free off. Also use lots of release fluid on them for a couple of days before you plan on removing them.
     
  16. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Yep, I gave then a good spraying this morning. The plugs probably won't arrive until Monday, so will spray and try a wiggle daily until then.
     
  17. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    As above get engine up to temp, drop some plug gas round them, then when you do try to remove them use a good 6 sided deep impact socket, first turn slowly clockwise to tighten, very slightly the anti-clockwise again slowly, keep repeating to crack the corrosion round the thread on them, its not a job to rush good luck.
     

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  18. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    Cheers for that, will do.
     
  19. Bootes

    Bootes Member

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    First the good news, the plugs came out easily even with a cold motor. Got the new ones in and replaced all the plastic etc, started him up, No Smoke's, yaaaaaaaa. left him tickin' over for 20 mins 'ish. Now the bad news, I gave him some throttle and yes the smoke's are back. The tick over is smooth if a bit on the low side with just a bit of white/grey smoke. He still feels like he's choking for air when I put my foot down. If the weather is good tomorrow I'll warm Bender up then have another go at getting number 4 injector out as it was stuck when I checked and cleaned the other three. I've got a spare oil filter so might do that as well, though I would prefer to flush him out as well and don't have any flusher.
    Hey ho, the joys of motoring.
     
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