TD4 Smokin' Issue (solved or not)

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Bootes

Member
Posts
31
Location
Wiltshire
Hi Guys,
OK, so I've got a 2006 Freelander 2.0 TD4 with approx 86,000 miles. Called "Bender", so everyone behind me can "Bite My Shiny Metal Ars* (wheel cover)" .
And I'm stumped, I got the old TD4 smokin' problem. I am really hoping some one can help.

First off, way back at the beginning of the year I was on the 303 heading to Winchester, when I had a lack of power and bucket loads of Black smoke. I limped back home to Trowbridge (Wilts). After hours of looking I found it, a hole in the Intercooler Outlet Hose where it had been rubbing on the Air Intake Ducting mounting screw, after replacing said hose all was fine for a few days. I even strapped a piece of very, very thick leather around the hose until I can make up some kind of bracket to stop the rubbing. Then I got the smokes on start-up, same as most everyone else, white, smells of BBQ that stopped after a couple of mins. The tick over was still a bit lumpy though even after the smoke had gone. I replaced the Crankcase Breather Filter with a BMW one, it made no difference so I took it to my local garage. Well after handing over £300 they told me they couldn't find any problem and that a blat down the road cleared it. About a week later it had the Smokes REAL bad, thick clouds of white-grey smoke all the time, still smells of BBQ and has lumpy tick over and if I take her up to about 2000 revs it feels like it's choking for air.
I have done a leak back and the results are
1 (oil filler end) 5.75
2 7.50
3 6.50
4 8.50
I have had 1 2 & 3 injectors out, stripped and cleaned the nozzles, no matter what I tried I could not get 4 out, so I put it all back together with the plan of running it to get everything hot, then trying number 4 again. I've pulled the injector plugs one by one and each goes a bit lumpy as expected.
Now I am really at a loss, it's now November the weather is shyte and here's the sorry for myself bit, being disabled I don't have much income. So I really can't afford to start replacing bits that might not be at fault.
After all the threads on LandyZone for Smokin' Freelanders has anyone actually found a cure. I've read just about every thread but a lot stop dead before an answer is found.
I'm starting to think I'll have to sell my EWI5000 to take it to my local Landy (WJ Joyce) garage.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Did you have a look also on the small 4mm hoses? Those also make a mess sometimes and hard to spot especially on egr side.
Do you have egr blank fitted?
Also, did you check the turbo solenoid and last but not least the MAF.
To get injector 4 out sprinkle some wd40 there a day before. Next day it will come out easily, especially with a long leverage but make sure you support it on a screw or something.
 
also .. you might want to check the fuel-rail-pressure sensor plug-pins for possible corrosion,
dirt, water ingress ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Thanx for the quick reply Websun, if it's not peeing down tomorrow I check over the small vac pipes. No not got a EGR blank fitted, which reminds me I've got to get a new jubilee clamp for that. I thought that there wasn't much could be done to the MAF and that it's pretty sensitive to touch etc. Can I clean it with Brake cleaner spray?.I doubt I'll be able to get underneath to get at the turbo. Not as bendy as I used to be.
 
also .. you might want to check the fuel-rail-pressure sensor plug-pins for possible corrosion,
dirt, water ingress ..
Thanx for the reply, now that's a job I will be able to reach. I read somewhere that this part of the loom can fail, Land Rover Freelander 1 TD4 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Loom Cable YMQ503320 OE (FleeBay) is this right? Jeez £72
 
Black smoke is lack of oxygen for the fuel available. So this is a leaking boost pipe, boost pipe clips or the EGR valve sticking open, allowing exhaust to contaminate the incoming fresh air.
 
I read somewhere that this part of the loom can fail, Land Rover Freelander 1 TD4 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Loom Cable YMQ503320 OE (FleeBay) is this right? Jeez £72
unless the wiring within the loom is at fault .. you don't necessarily need a new one ..
just clean the pins in the plug and bung in a load of 'contralube-770' to keep water ingress out ..
( https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/827/category/154 )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
that sensor only utilises small voltage ..
a small upset can cause a number of weird symptoms ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
( i use that on all engine sensor plugs and the injector plugs ..
( and computer connections at home ..
( so far no problems
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
 
Black smoke is lack of oxygen for the fuel available. So this is a leaking boost pipe,
Thanks Nodge, Yeah this turned out to be the Intercooler hose rubbing on the Air Ducting mounting screw. Got that sorted now, I now carry some Gorilla tape just in case.
 
sometimes it can be the glow plugs that make it smoke just after ignition, unplug the MAF and see if it goes away,
 
Hi Guys,
OK, so I've got the top (Plastic) stripped down again, got the MAF off and all connectors are clean, All the small bore pipes look good, unfortunately I can't get under to look at the Turbo pipes. I did put a meter on the glow plugs in situ and number 3 reads 5.55k ohms while 1,2&4 are overload no ohms. I presume that means 3 is shot?
 
A working glow plug has a resistance of 0.8 to 1.1 Ohm. Anything higher than that would signify a faulty plug.
 
Thanks Nodge,
I've just ordered 4 new ones.

Don't force them if they don't come out. They're know to seize in, and snap when trying to remove them.

If they feel stiff on a short 1/4" ratchet, then start the engine and run up to temperature. This can sometimes get them to free off. Also use lots of release fluid on them for a couple of days before you plan on removing them.
 
Don't force them if they don't come out. They're know to seize in, and snap when trying to remove them.

If they feel stiff on a short 1/4" ratchet, then start the engine and run up to temperature. This can sometimes get them to free off. Also use lots of release fluid on them for a couple of days before you plan on removing them.
Yep, I gave then a good spraying this morning. The plugs probably won't arrive until Monday, so will spray and try a wiggle daily until then.
 
As above get engine up to temp, drop some plug gas round them, then when you do try to remove them use a good 6 sided deep impact socket, first turn slowly clockwise to tighten, very slightly the anti-clockwise again slowly, keep repeating to crack the corrosion round the thread on them, its not a job to rush good luck.
 

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As above get engine up to temp, drop some plug gas round them, then when you do try to remove them use a good 6 sided deep impact socket, first turn slowly clockwise to tighten, very slightly the anti-clockwise again slowly, keep repeating to crack the corrosion round the thread on them, its not a job to rush good luck.
Cheers for that, will do.
 
First the good news, the plugs came out easily even with a cold motor. Got the new ones in and replaced all the plastic etc, started him up, No Smoke's, yaaaaaaaa. left him tickin' over for 20 mins 'ish. Now the bad news, I gave him some throttle and yes the smoke's are back. The tick over is smooth if a bit on the low side with just a bit of white/grey smoke. He still feels like he's choking for air when I put my foot down. If the weather is good tomorrow I'll warm Bender up then have another go at getting number 4 injector out as it was stuck when I checked and cleaned the other three. I've got a spare oil filter so might do that as well, though I would prefer to flush him out as well and don't have any flusher.
Hey ho, the joys of motoring.
 
Woot Woot, jumped into Bender this afternoon an' the smokes is gone!!. Also I bought me an iCarsoft LR V1.0 with my Xmas money. Wow, gives a lot more data than my old code reader. I cleared all DTC's and ran a couple of tests, then I took Bender for a run with Reader on. Big knocking on pull off, slight lack of power, lumpy on tick-over and I can hear sucking/hissing noise down by the belt, loud enough to be heard inside while driving.
Reader gave a strange code 0x1613 (manufacturer specific code), State: NONE, Cylinder Balance Control. From what I can find on the interweb it's to do with the injectors.

LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00006>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 1
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
P1613 1/1
State: None
Cylinder balance control (0x1613)

========================================================================
LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00006>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Overview:
Total Frames: 42 , Supported Items: 14
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 1/42:
Low Pressure Supply ----- 358.50
Airflow ----- 351.40mg/str
Coolant Temperature ----- 53.85°F
Engine Speed ----- 1544rpm
Fuel Pressure Regulator Current ----- 1.00
High Pressure Rail ----- 7867.87psi
Inlet Air Temperature ----- 26.55°F
Manifold Pressure ----- 15.27psi
Pedal 1 Demand ----- 1.17%
Pedal 2 Demand ----- 0.57%
Battery Voltage ----- 14.28V
Capacitor 1 ----- 77.24V
Sensor Supply 1 ----- 5.01V
Sensor Supply 2 ----- 4.99V


AND THIS


LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00009>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Fuelling compensation:
Total Frames: 65 , Supported Items: 4
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 1/65:
Cylinder 1 ----- 13.82
Cylinder 2 ----- 6.59
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.88
Cylinder 4 ----- 19.69
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 2/65:
Cylinder 1 ----- 11.82
Cylinder 2 ----- 6.79
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.88
Cylinder 4 ----- 19.29
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 3/65:
Cylinder 1 ----- 13.32
Cylinder 2 ----- 0
Cylinder 3 ----- 18.88
Cylinder 4 ----- 0

Not totally sure about the Fuelling Compensation. Isn't it supposed to be about "0" on all cylinders?
Anyway once more any help would be gratefully received.

Oh and by the way.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL ON LANDY ZONE.
 
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