TD4 manual owners.. a question.

Right,

On monday, i got my master cylinder changed for a genuine LR parts, to hopefully solve my clutch issue of no pressure in the pedal and unable to change gear.

However, while i can now change gears and drive the car, the pedal is still very soft with no pressure till almost the end and my biting point is nearly at the bottom of the travel of the pedal.

Im thinking i still have an issue, now, will bleeding solve this or is it time to brace the card for a serious beasting to change the slave.

Also, how is your pedal? Is there pressure for the full travel or is it soft but firms up the more you press?
And where abouts is your biting point, near the bottom or near the top or somewhere inbetween?

Ive owned my car for just over a year and when I got it the biting point was right down the bottom. Gears very difficult to change. I had to bleed it out twice over a few months. Now ok. Biteing point is in the lower third.

I suggest giving it a good bleed.

good luck

Also, how is your pedal? Is there pressure for the full travel or is it soft but firms up the more you press?

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constant pressure for full travel down .. ( that's after about an 8th of intitial freeplay )

And where abouts is your biting point, near the bottom or near the top or somewhere inbetween?

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biting point be about a 3rd or less from the bottom ..

Mine is fecked then, shall price up a slave cylinder change, then cry, then get it done and cry a bit more. haha.

Bleed it twice first.


Make sure the res is full , get someone to put the clutch pedal 8 times and hold it down. Then you open the nipple for a couple of seconds and lock it off again. Doing this a dozen times.

Redo it again after a few days to make sure all the air is out.



On a good pedal , maybe the top 1/2" - 1" is freeplay, after that it should feel resistant.