TD4 Injector Part numbers

Hi all, possibly a question for the experts/seniors here (clutchy, optimus, ming etc).
Having suspected injector leakback on my TD4 auto2004 I've ordered refurbs from a reputable seller on ebay (I say reputable - the MG forums recommend them and their feedback suggests plenty of happy customers).
Now despite stating mine is an auto and quoting LR part number 8510027 when ordering they appear to have sent me bosch p/n 0445 110 049 - the ones I've taken out (easily enough thankfully) are p/n 0445 110 130. I think they may have sent my the replacements for the manual model (STC4555) I'm really not sure.
They look the same, measure the same and will no doubt fit, but the question is, will they work?
If I go ahead and fit them, am I likely to do some damage here or should I be cautious and send em back for the right ones?
** Update**The seller has just come back to me saying not to worry as they're exactly the same and will work. Anyone who disagrees, before I go ahead?

As far as I can remember, whislt they will fit and not do any damage to the engine, they are the same injector up to 2003 both manual/auto they changed the set up inside the injector from 2003 onwards for the autos and will not run correctly, I think is is from chassis No
3A239592 if yours is below then I would not be fitting them . I may stand corrected so would be intrested in other feed back

If they are exactly the same, why would LR have different numbers for auto/manual?

TBH, I have wondered what the dirrence is so will be interesting to find out

Regardless of what the seller says they are obviously not 'exactly' the same. The last 3 numbers are the specific identifier so they are different. LR changed the injectors on the auto for some reason so why would anyone knowingly fit the incorrect version?

Update for those interested & thanks to those who've advised - the injectors were being replaced due to suspected leakback (a dribble, but was told can be enough) the refurb ones were fitted and fit fine, but - car still does not start without quick start spray
Once going runs fine (as it did before).
It appears it was money wasted on the refurb injectors - back to square one, I'm learning the hard way here. :frusty:
So what else could it be - rail pressure sensor? Is there a way to test for that priot to replacing it (I'm loathe to buy a new one if that too will be money wasted.
High pressure fuel pump? Would it run ok if that was at fault?
I may just have to admit defeat and bring it in to a specialist (beginning to think that may have been wiser in first place now).

vee8 said:

Hartridge Application Matrix - Bosch

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Aye cheers saw that when looking for an answer on the net & it kind of gives the impression of compatibility - as I say the 049's appear to fit fine and work - but as per previous post I think I may have misdiagnosed leak back as the cause.

Norbet said:

Update for those interested & thanks to those who've advised - the injectors were being replaced due to suspected leakback (a dribble, but was told can be enough) the refurb ones were fitted and fit fine, but - car still does not start without quick start spray
Once going runs fine (as it did before).
It appears it was money wasted on the refurb injectors - back to square one, I'm learning the hard way here. :frusty:
So what else could it be - rail pressure sensor? Is there a way to test for that priot to replacing it (I'm loathe to buy a new one if that too will be money wasted.
High pressure fuel pump? Would it run ok if that was at fault?
I may just have to admit defeat and bring it in to a specialist (beginning to think that may have been wiser in first place now).

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Another area to eliminate for leak back is the 'o' ring seal on end of the fuel pressure regulator. If this seal is passing HP fuel returns to the tank.
The pressure reg fits into the end of the high pressure pump, changing the seal is straightforward so it's worth a try.

Chaser said:

Another area to eliminate for leak back is the 'o' ring seal on end of the fuel pressure regulator. If this seal is passing HP fuel returns to the tank.
The pressure reg fits into the end of the high pressure pump, changing the seal is straightforward so it's worth a try.

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Aye cheers chaser, it's worth a try - besides replacing with new part is there any way to tell if this is at fault? To get to this pressure control valve I assume inlet manifold has to come off again?

If low fuel pressure at start is the problem would there be fault codes to pick up on, would the check engine light be illuminated?

Edit - just checked rave manual - it appears starter motor has to come off too - I reckon that may be too much for me in the absence of workshop facilities and time - might be dealer/specialist time - any recommendations for north/west yorkshire?

Norbet said:

Aye cheers chaser, it's worth a try - besides replacing with new part is there any way to tell if this is at fault? To get to this pressure control valve I assume inlet manifold has to come off again?

If low fuel pressure at start is the problem would there be fault codes to pick up on, would the check engine light be illuminated?

Edit - just checked rave manual - it appears starter motor has to come off too - I reckon that may be too much for me in the absence of workshop facilities and time - might be dealer/specialist time - any recommendations for north/west yorkshire?

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If the regulator valve is faulty, there will be NO codes stored, and NO eml...

Recently replaced the HPFP, which comes with a new valve, and car wouldnt start. Spent about a day checking everything else as I presumed the new pump would not be at fault...

Starter doesnt have to come off to replace the valve, but access is quite limited, but still do-able. Inlet manifold definately has to come off though

disco_mikey said:

If the regulator valve is faulty, there will be NO codes stored, and NO eml...

Recently replaced the HPFP, which comes with a new valve, and car wouldnt start. Spent about a day checking everything else as I presumed the new pump would not be at fault...

Starter doesnt have to come off to replace the valve, but access is quite limited, but still do-able. Inlet manifold definately has to come off though

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Thanks Mikey, - will check with local dealers for price on part, if it's reasonable may have a go at it myself, but feeling a bit disheartened now and don't have much time or the facilities to keep going at this through the process of elimination.
I think a local specialist may be the answer - any recommendations in the Yorkshire area?

Norbet said:

Thanks Mikey, - will check with local dealers for price on part, if it's reasonable may have a go at it myself, but feeling a bit disheartened now and don't have much time or the facilities to keep going at this through the process of elimination.
I think a local specialist may be the answer - any recommendations in the Yorkshire area?

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My suggestion was merely to change the 'o' ring as there is no other way to tell if it's passing. The regulator is probably fine if the car drives OK once started.

Chaser said:

My suggestion was merely to change the 'o' ring as there is no other way to tell if it's passing. The regulator is probably fine if the car drives OK once started.

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Cheers Chaser - I'm going to take it into a local specialist in York and give em the lowdown on the symptons and what I've done with the injectors etc.
I'll mention the advice I've had here, no doubt they'll want to do their own diagnostics (they mentioned autologic as the tool they use).

Fingers crossed it is something fairly simple like this o ring you mention, but I just haven't got the time, facilities or will to keep going at it myself.

Norbet said:

Cheers Chaser - I'm going to take it into a local specialist in York and give em the lowdown on the symptons and what I've done with the injectors etc.
I'll mention the advice I've had here, no doubt they'll want to do their own diagnostics (they mentioned autologic as the tool they use).

Fingers crossed it is something fairly simple like this o ring you mention, but I just haven't got the time, facilities or will to keep going at it myself.

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I understand your reasons for sending it to a specialist.
I doubt they'll take much notice of forum talk though, we like to try all the things that cost nowt first. I'd be surprised even if they discover a simple cheap fix that they'll let it end there. I hope it's not the case but most will find something they can service exchange to make the job pay.
Keep us posted on the outcome.

Chaser called it right with the regulator - spoke to garage earlier when they were just putting it back together - replaced the regulator and it be fixed. Not sure if just the o-ring could be changed or if whole valve had to go - not got the bill yet, but he said they'd changed the regulator and also the wiring harness on the rail pressure switch. As chaser also wisely suggested, they may have had to make the job pay.
If the bill's not too steep I'll have no problem with that though.
I'm now in possession of 4 recon injectors that I've forked out on - seems nowt was wrong with mine.
Lesson here for me is there are some jobs best left to the experts

Norbet said:

Chaser called it right with the regulator - spoke to garage earlier when they were just putting it back together - replaced the regulator and it be fixed. Not sure if just the o-ring could be changed or if whole valve had to go - not got the bill yet, but he said they'd changed the regulator and also the wiring harness on the rail pressure switch. As chaser also wisely suggested, they may have had to make the job pay.
If the bill's not too steep I'll have no problem with that though.
I'm now in possession of 4 recon injectors that I've forked out on - seems nowt was wrong with mine.
Lesson here for me is there are some jobs best left to the experts

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Just a final update, bill came in at £329, not too bad I suppose considering - could have been worse. Strange though that my bluetooth HF kit is no longer working - I suspect it's becuase it's located behind the dash where the diagnostic port (ODBII) is and somethings got disconnected.

As the topic of this thread was the question of whether the injectors for the manual (STC4555) would work in an an auto, well I suppose the answer is yes. I'm not sure if there are any subtle differences in performance, running or MPG, but as far as I can tell they work fine, but given that there's seemingly nothing wrong with my originals I'll probably just put them back in and either attempt to flog the recon injectors or save em for a rainy day.
Anyhoo - thanks to all those with the helpful informative advice!