Td4 engine dying

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Mobydick

New Member
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10
Location
East Grinstead
Hi all, being a new member with a problem that hopefully you experts might be able to advise me on how to resolve. Recently purchased a 51 plate Freelander TD4 2.0LT diesel with genuine 100k, sounds and runs well on short journeys. However when ever we go for 80 to 100 mile trip the engine looses power around the 70mph mark and stalls. Before completely dying the engine management light comes on.
As manual says leave engine of for period of time and restart but of course now with reduced power.
First check was to replace the oil filter & pipes, second was to replace the expensive fuel pump as diagnostiaclly diagnosed & re-chipped, however its still dying and is now unreliable and dangerous.
My rich mechanic now says that it could be the EWS the chip in the key. Tried the spare key and still have same problem.
Can anyone advise on what to do next.:doh:
Mobydick
 
Mobydick said:
Hi all, being a new member with a problem that hopefully you experts might be able to advise me on how to resolve. Recently purchased a 51 plate Freelander TD4 2.0LT diesel with genuine 100k, sounds and runs well on short journeys. However when ever we go for 80 to 100 mile trip the engine looses power around the 70mph mark and stalls. Before completely dying the engine management light comes on.
As manual says leave engine of for period of time and restart but of course now with reduced power.
First check was to replace the oil filter & pipes, second was to replace the expensive fuel pump as diagnostiaclly diagnosed & re-chipped, however its still dying and is now unreliable and dangerous.
My rich mechanic now says that it could be the EWS the chip in the key. Tried the spare key and still have same problem.
Can anyone advise on what to do next.:doh:
Mobydick
Click to expand...

Which fuel pump was replaced? was it replaced with a genuine one? what were the fault codes showing? Did he check the fuel pressure regulator and also the sensor on the injector rail?
 
Hi Ratty, the pump has been replaced by genuine bmw part and its the fast pump. Thanks for the advice will ask for him to check out your points. Moby.
 
Mobydick said:
Hi Ratty, the pump has been replaced by genuine bmw part and its the fast pump. Thanks for the advice will ask for him to check out your points. Moby.
Click to expand...

there's a low pressure and a high pressure pump. When it cuts out does it re-start again ok? Can you hear the low pressure fuel pump running? Do you run the fuel level low before re-filling?
 
Hi Ratty, its back to the garage on tuesdsay so will find out if fault code has changed now having new fuel pump. Really apprecaite your points.
 
Hi Ratty, I refuel on 1/4 tank dont let it go any lower. When it cuts out after a minute or so it will start but not always first time then as it runs it will cut out more frequently. Also when let it run stationery for approx 5 to 6 mins and gets warm its happens more reguarly, could this be linked to the EGR geometry control Solenoid?.
 
Ratty, Due to BMW engine have local independant BMW specialist looking at it but would like a second opinion. Can you recommend anyone in the Crawley area. Would travel further a field but cant guarrantee will make it at the mo so anyone in 30 mile radius of Crawley would be fab. Cheers.
 
Mobydick said:
Hi Ratty, I refuel on 1/4 tank dont let it go any lower. When it cuts out after a minute or so it will start but not always first time then as it runs it will cut out more frequently. Also when let it run stationery for approx 5 to 6 mins and gets warm its happens more reguarly, could this be linked to the EGR geometry control Solenoid?.
Click to expand...

It could be EGR valve but I'd expect it to be ok at higher speeds and to play up as you slow down. I'm thinking crankshaft sensor at this exact moment.
 
This sounds more like a thermal problem to me, eg. a dirty/coroded connector who,s resistance changes when hot. I would look at the fuel pressure sensor connectors first. Clean them with a contact lubricant, much cheaper than expensive mechanical parts.
There have been a problem with the fuel pressure sensor and a new harness is available to cure it.
 
Hi, Took Freelander to garage again today, conections/wires/pipes look ok, but fault 1190 rail pressure control was showing up, what can we do next please?
 
Hi all, at last have found out from a Land Rover dealer that the code 1190 stands for 'Rail Pressure Control'. The bad news is its £200 for parts plus 1hr labour. Now in English its apparently the Fuel Regulator & Wiring Assembly that need replacing to stop the engine from cutting out. Can anyone confirm that this is a fair price and that this should sort the problem out.
 
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