TD4 EML and non starter

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mick 1986

mick 1986

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I have done some searching, but can't find anyone with the same symptoms as what I have at the minute.

I was driving home from work as normal, 30zone plodding along in 5th. The car started to misfire and the EML came on, I approached a round about, dropped down to 3rd, plodded round it misfiring, and went to accelerate back to normal speed. At this point the oil light flashed up and the car stalled. I rolled up to a stop on a hill. The car won't start, the EML is staying on, the engine bay stinks of unburned fuel, it's got oil spray from what appears to come from the top of the rocker cover but can't confirm it as I can't see it clearly, and finally it had very little oil in it, but I have put it down to being on the hill. The coolant in the expansion tank doesn't appear to have any oil in it, nor does the oil filler cap appear to have any "mayo" inside.

Any ideas? I'm leaning towards a cracked injector, or injector housing but any ideas??
 
I have just turned the ignition on to check the lights, the EML comes on as it should one the "light test" then flashes off and comes straight back on, even without trying to start it!

I have disconnected the battery and it doesn't reset it.
 
You need a code reader, it's cheaper to buy a cheap one than buy random parts that don't fix it!!
 
Well, I have stripped the intake manifold and plastic covers off. The fuel leak is coming from the top gasket cover of the injection pump.

Done the research, it seems a piece of **** job to strip it and replace it one that sprocket retainer tool is purchased.

Question is tho, new pump or recon this one????
 
Forgot to add, is it possible that this leak is sufficient enough to cause the high pressure fuel sensor to trip and not allow the car to start? If not I need to find out what the code was for.
 
the hp pump is relitivly easy to remove once you have the correct tool (£45 aprox)to hold the sprocket in place and jack out the pump shaft,
overhauling the pump is relitivly simlpe, its a 3 stage, you can get a kit from ebay for under £15, a second hand pump usually goes for £150, ,
if its leaking you wont be getting the correct pressure to the fuel rail sensor , hence the engine cutting out,


forget buyng a code reader for yours , 2001 it wont work as its to early to be compliant
 
What code reader will work John? It's a 2003 mate.

I have ordered the gasket kit and the tool, paid over the odds for them, £60 for both, but I don't have to **** about waiting for postage, so it has its perks.

Any advice on stripping it mate, or post repair procedures? It's not that the engine is cutting out, it just won't start.
 
One thing you need to be aware of is that there are two different seal kits on the pump and until you strip it down you dont know which one, its to do with the shape of the O rings. Wish I had seen the post earlier as I live fairly close to you and have lent you a retaining tool. If you decide not to refurb the pump your self than I can let you know a supplier of a replacment pump,
You can get a refurbed one off the shelf for £225 or I know of another supplier that will refurb yours, last time at about £150 but it takes a couple of days.
Its not to bad of a job to remove the pump around 4 hours in and out.
Have fun
 
Cheers mate. I spoke to a diesel injection specialist up at beamish. He said if you haven't done it before expect around 2hours to take it out and put it back, and around an hour or so to refurb. He quoted around £140 to do it for me if I took it to him, which I'm not doing until I can't put it back together.

The seal kit I have has both types of seals, that's probably why I paid £26 for it.
 
Having done a few pump changes, you may find the times he told you may take a little longer. Remember its inlet manifold off, starter motor off, under tray off, top engine mounting. You can get away with leaving the drive belts on, but a little fiddly if you do to get the 17mm sprocket cover off.
That's just to get to the pump.
 
Last edited:
The starter doesn't need to come off, it can be done with it still on, the whole top end is already stripped mate, that's why I know it's leaking. The undertray and engine mount aren't done yet, why does the engine mount need to come off?
 
You can not get to the pump sprocket nut with out taking the top engine mounting off. You also cannot get to the bottom pump nut with the starter in place and no clearance to withdraw the pump.
You also need to support the bottom of engine with mounting off.
 
Just out of interest guys, would this cause the engine management light to come back on before trying to start...
reason for asking is this is what mine done when the LP fuel pump packed up - switch on ignition, first management light goes out and comes back on due to no fuel pressure feeding the HP pump, maybe the leak in the HP pump is stopping the low pressure side building pressure??
Hope you get the HP pump rebuilt ok...
 
Mine is doing this aswel mate. Light is on for test, then flicks off and straight back on. I have a universal OBD tester coming tomorrow, I just hope and pray it can read and convert the codes.

I will post up on here how I get on.
 
If you only turn the ignition on without starting and the light comes on, I would imagine the most likely thing is fuel pressure, unless its drastically lost a sensor connection.. hopefully your code reader will tell you..
 
Pre face lift you need a hawkeye or the like to read codes,
Have you seen this link that may help in your pump rebuild.



index
 
Yes mate, already got it saved. :)

The code reader I have is one that connects via the OBD plug, using Bluetooth, to a mobile device; in this case a tablet. It read my brothers 02/03 primera, but not a vectra 53, so it's a case of wait and see.
 
Well, it's all done and working again! Thank ****!!!

Here is a few facts about this job, the Haynes manual negates to say that some parts are "optional", so the starter motor DOES NOT need to be removed, also the aux belts DO NOT need to be removed. The pump is a doddel to over haul, the washers that are apparently hard to tell which way is the concave side are actually very easy to tell.

The worst part of the job was the **** about of fitting the tool.

If anyone in or around the catterick area wants a hand, drop me a message.
 
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