TD4 died and now won't restart :(

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L

LVC

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After 3 years and over 40k miles of trouble free driving she's died :(

2004 td4 5 door HSE Automatic with 100k miles

Traveling home at around 80kph (I live in France) went to accelerate and found that the engine had stalled (no lights on the dash though). Tried restarting whilst "coasting" but no joy - rolled to a halt in the entrance of property and got put on a flat bed to get us home (10km away - typical).

Engine turns over but will not "fire up". Prior to "stalling" everything was fine - no sluggish running - had executed a kick-down overtake with no probs about 15 mins prior.

Since then I've replaced/changed/done the following:
- Pressed the red cut-off switch (just in case).
- All fuses OK.
- Locked/re-locked alarm system and even used the spare key (just in case immobilizer).
- Crank sensor (new)
- High pressure fuel sensor (2nd hand but tested)
- Cam sensor (checked on another car and OK)
- New joints on the fuel regulator on the back of the HPFP
- Rear fuel pump and filter (new)
- Carried out a leak test (ignition on engine off) - no leaks at all.
- Tried with a squirt of "start-pilot" (yes I know not the best idea but nothing else to hand) and she starts and then dies.

Recent relevant history:
The HPFP had a small leak which on changing the joints (the leak was on the one side accessible without removing the pump) the leak went away for 4 weeks then came back with vengeance and threw diesel all over the wheel, brakes and side of the car - but she still started started and ran OK. Changed again the joints - one of the new ones had "perished" (very strange) and all good for another 3 weeks until she died.

About 30 mins prior to the last stall I had a strong diesel smell but no obvious leaks and no diesel all over the place as before but think another HPFP leak.

I've ordered the HPFP tool and another joint kit and quite prepared to take the pump out/off and have a go at a complete overhaul.

Have I missed anything ???? Help please as I'm running out of hair to pull out :(
 
try pressing the cut of switch again it might be in the cut off mode , can you hear the pump running , if so I know the freelander has an automatic bleed system but just slacken of the last joint to the number 4 injector with someone switching on the ignition key but not trying to start, hope this helps
 
teddywood1 said:
try pressing the cut of switch again it might be in the cut off mode , can you hear the pump running , if so I know the freelander has an automatic bleed system but just slacken of the last joint to the number 4 injector with someone switching on the ignition key but not trying to start, hope this helps
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply.

Cut-off switch has been pressed lots of times (you never know, lol). Yes I can hear pump running (both old one and now new one) and have the hiss from the HPFP for 15 secs whilst it "charges up". Will try the bleed idea, thx.

Before dismantling I'm thinking off taking off the injector inlet pipes one after the other and cranking the engine to see if the diesel is arriving under pressure from the rail. IMHO it's a fuel issue as she fired up with Start Pilot - unless I'm wrong ^^
 
Bit of an update for anyone following (or anyone that can help ....)

- Leak back test negative (not a drop) both with ignition on and engine turning over.
- diesel arrives at all four injectors (undid pipes at injectors) no visible air leaks.
- all four injectors have electric pulses (took connections of and with trusty 12v screwdriver/lamp had low powered blips).
- The diesel that arrives at the injectors IMHO is not under pressure - more like a tap opening and no difference in flow with ignition on or engine turning over - am I right in assuming that the HPFP is supposed to increase the pressure ?

Locking tool arrived today for the HPFP so think I'll be taking it out/off and refurbishing and also get the four injectors checked over/cleaned whilst at it.

Any other thoughts from anyone ???
 
First off, it's possibly very damaging to use the injector pulse to drive a light, hopefully no damage has been done.
I'd be checking that the high pressure fuel regulator seals are intact. These caused problems for another poster recently.
 
Nodge68 said:
First off, it's possibly very damaging to use the injector pulse to drive a light, hopefully no damage has been done.
I'd be checking that the high pressure fuel regulator seals are intact. These caused problems for another poster recently.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply.

First off .... possibly .... in any case too late now and I don't intend to retest them ;)

The high pressure fuel regulator seals were replaced with new ones a couple of days ago (the old ones were not damaged).
 
Could it be the cable/connector to the HP fuel pressure sensor. Had a similar problem and event after changing HP pump and testing wiring loom turned out to be the Cable/connector to HP fuel sensor. It is a known problem on TD4's
 
Andy_J said:
Could it be the cable/connector to the HP fuel pressure sensor. Had a similar problem and event after changing HP pump and testing wiring loom turned out to be the Cable/connector to HP fuel sensor. It is a known problem on TD4's
Click to expand...

Thanks Andy - yes could be although I've got a RonBox (Synergy) fitted which has it's own wiring for the fuel sensor but no harm in trying the original one just in case. I think either the pump is knackered or there's an electrical signal somewhere which is stopping the fuel regulator from opening correctly (which could indeed be from the fuel pressure switch). I need to figure out if with the fuel regulator closed the pressure at the injectors is only that from the rear pump (there's two feed lines from the pump so it's possible one of them is a low pressure bypass - it's also possible that one of them is just a return).

Learning a bit more each day, lol
 
I had this once and only just remembered as it was some 10 years ago if not more and it turned out to be one of those booster boxes , the contacts at the end of the wire had corroded and were not making a good contact it was only when I decided to take it off I did see the problem hope this helps you out
 
Thanks chaps - I'll check the electrical connections for corrosion etc. before I dismantle everything - the refurb kit for the pump arrived today so next step is taking the pump out and apart - wish me luck ^^
 
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