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Freelander 1 Td4 cut out & won't start

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Andy Warren, Nov 22, 2019.

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  1. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Hi all, my 04 facelift Td4 auto cut out when slowing down for a roundabout & won't restart. It cranks fine but when you switch the ignition on the fuel system doesn't prime (no noise from the wheel arch or system pressurizing under the bonnet as normal).After checking the relevant fuses I called the AA out but when he connected his code/fault reader to the OBD plug to see if there where any fault codes, it wouldn't connect/communicate, so he checked to see if there was voltage on a couple of sensors & as there wasn't he said it could be the ECM as this controls the fuel pump as well. I fitted a synergy 2 with eco button about a year ago,( along with a new diesel filter and the earth tab that slides down the side of it). I disconnected the synergy box just to eliminate it but it still doesn't start. Apart from the egr being blanked off the car is standard & hasn't missed a beat in the 2 & a half years I've had it. So is it worth me starting at the fuel pump/wiring or looking at the ECM end ? Any help as ever, will be greatly appreciated, many thanks.
     
  2. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Do a leak back test first, after that check the fuel pump is purring when Ignition is at II peel back the wheel arch liner to do the check, at the same time disconnect the wiring plug to the fuel pump spray with some contact clean and fit the plug on & off a few times, see it then starts, then check the HPFP regulator O-rings if it will still not start, what MAF do you have fitted with the synergy 2? I have know some M47 engines not start because of the MAF.
     
  3. Nandad

    Nandad Member

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    • Similar happened to me, smacked the pump with the ignition on it kicked in and got me home.
     
  4. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    If the Low Pressure fuel pump isn't running, then you need to check it is getting power. It should be powered for about 45 seconds after turning on the ignition. If power is getting to the LP pump and the pump isn't running, then that's the problem. It would be unusual for the EDC power down completely, but a fuse could fail, and potentially the main relay too. But I'd definitely check for power to the LP pump first.
     
  5. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    I got the pierburgh maf at the same time. I'm going to set to work on it I about an hour( if the rain holds off). As a quick starting point can I swap the fuel pump relay with any of the other relays ? I know every other electrical item is working so it would eliminate that also if I put the f/p relay in another circuit.
     
  6. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    I checked the relevant fuses before the 'very nice man' arrived he then checked EVERY fuse & all were fine. Like you say the pump should run for about 45 secs but I know that's not happening. I asked Artic 2, if I can swap the f/p relay (to eliminate that) for any of the others, as all the other electrics are fine. Other than that I was going to the pump next. If the pump has failed, any recommendations with what make of pump I should replace it with?
    I'm going to start on it soon. Glad I drilled out all those old w/arch liner screws & replaced all the clips, then fitted s/steel screws ( inc. to the f/pump, dosing pump & filter housing plastic mounting tray.
    Many thanks, I'll keep you updated.
     
  7. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Funny you should say that the 'very nice man' tried that at the roadside & I did the same after he towed me home but sadly nothing happened as at least I would have known where to start.
    Was yours the actual pump sticking or wiring related ? or don't tell me it's been ok since the GBH ! lol.
     
  8. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    You can swap relay 1 (fuel pump) with relay 3 (HDC) to see if that cures the issue. 20191123_121530.png
    Relay 5 won't be fitted.
     
  9. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Great stuff Nodge, I've checked for 12v at the white/purple f/p connector but nothing (earth side is showing continuity).
    I have got 11v at the dosing pump white/blue wire, so I checked the battery voltage & it's only showing 11v as well (no surprise with whats happened).
    So I have the battery on charge, spot of lunch & I'll swap those relays over.
    Many thanks again.
     
  10. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Hi Nodge, just looked at the relays & mine doesn't have relays R3 & R5, owners hand book shows it (R3) missing & the Haynes manual says R3 & R5 aren't used (wiring diagrams for MY2003 on, mines 01/04) having said that the relays 1,2 & 4 in mine are all 40A with identical no's (Ford items) so I'll swap R1 with R2 (starter relay) & see if I get power, after I check the battery charge hasn't altered things.
     
  11. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I'll look at my 05 TD4 later.
     
  12. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Nodge but since the battery charge I now have 12v at the white/purple wire so there obviously wasn't enough power in the battery to power the ECM and or the f/p relay, school boy error on my part for not charging the battery over night as I could have started looking for problems that didn't exist !
    As this, like you said looks like the pump,can you recommend a good quality replacement (or can they even be repaired like my starter motor)?
    I'd still be interested in what relays are fitted to yours, when you get time.
    As ever thanks for your help, pint or two is yours should our paths ever cross.
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The pump can't be repaired, so it's a throw away unit. The only suitable replacements are genuine Pierburg, which gives a good life and silence operation.
     
  14. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that I'll have a search.
     
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