TD4 Cluth master cyl bleed checklist needed

howdy and Happy new year everyone.

Ive made several conscious efforts to track down a way to check/bleed the clutch system on my TD4 (2006) to no avail so am looking for a quick step by step guide from a knowledgeable chappy )

OK, basically the TD4 Clutch system is sealed from manufacture, the slave cyclinder is internally located in the bell housing with two pipes coming off of it, one has a bleed nipple on it and the other a quick coupling which attaches to the master clyinder (see pics). The master cylinder has a quick coupling one end which goes into a little resevoir before it disappears into the bulkhead to the clutch pedal assembly.

My biting point is about half inch from the floor and sometimes tricky to get into first gear so I am looking at ways of improving it. the Myfreelander website suggests replacing the clutch pedal bracket itself and a few other sources recommend changing the master cylinder....

its done 32000miles. thoughts and method statements welcome )

You need a clean container to make a pourer for the new fluid. I use a kids drink bottle with the pull out top, with the top cut off and about 6" of stiff plastic tube attached. Make certain it's completely clean and dry before use so you don't contaminate the new fluid.

You also need a small container to catch the old expelled fluid and a flexi tube that's a tight fit on the nipple and run into the container.

The master cylinder reservoir rubber cap will just prise off to allow topping up as you bleed. Don't let it run dry, you'll only get three or four pumps of the pedal before you need to top up.

Fix the flexi tube onto the nipple and insert into your container. Undo the nipple,about 3/4 of a turn and press the pedal to the floor and up again three times, top up, press pedal three times, top up again, continue until new clean fluid is coming out then lock the nipple up.

Don't let air enter the system or you will need to start over.

If the pedal sticks down (the return springs are pretty weak) use your hand to pump instead and just pull it up.

Leave reservoir level about 10mm below top to allow refitting of the rubber cap.

Chaser - you are a true gentleman, many thanks for the post!

joe27979 said:

Chaser - you are a true gentleman, many thanks for the post!

Click to expand...

Hopefully bleeding will improve things. I've had the same symptoms on several Td4s and bleeding has fixed it. My own eventually reoccurred after 12 months or so so did it again but at least bleeding keeps things going until the eventual clutch change.

spoke to the Stealers near me today for a quick quote on replacing diff, gear and ird oils. They quoted me £154 including parts and labour to replace all the fluids (have to vacuum syringe out of rear diff as no drain but if I wanted diff dropping to totally empty it then it would be extra £40 as the suspension arms etc would need removing to drop it.

To buy the oils myself (MTF94 and some syntrax universal) it would cost £50....so that equates to £100 labour. They do have the right offset tool to get the IRD plug which is notoriously tight.....what ya reckon, ive done oil plug and coolant changes, as well as discs and pads on smaller cars but never attempted anything on the freelander yet!


p.s They said they I wouldnt be able to bleed the clutch, I told them it is possible with the bleed nipple on the slave and the little resevoir on the master cylinder - they then said yes maybe you can do it but we never do as the clutch never seems to work right or be the same ever again!....Kinda put me off doing mine now

It's your call on the fluids, how much do you need to save £100?

At the moment I wouldn't want to be under a freelander and would rather let them do it and save the grief (and the frost bite).

Trust me on the clutch bleed they can be bled like any other and in my experience changing the fluid has always given some improvement in clearance and gear engagement. If done correctly it can't possibly make it any worse.
As I said previously the problem may reoccur after some time and need bleeding again but the alternative is a very expensive clutch and hydraulics renewal that could be put off for a year or two.